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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter #1
More good info from the MR2 forums.

The 65 buck ebay controller is supposed to adjust the headlights to the "sleepy" state while in the off position. This mod makes them work in the on position. Don't waste your time cutting and fabbing new arms. It's just a simple rewire.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2456963361&category=42613

The pivot sort of alters the voltage being transmitted to retract the headlights. So with the pivot controller, you can't just turn the knob and the headlights will move up or down simultaneosly along with it. You have to set the pivot controller at a desired level and when you turn on your headlights with the stock switch, they will only open up to whatever level you have set on your pivot controller. I had to play around with both to get it set where i want to, and then pretty much once that is settled, you wouldn't need to touch the pivot controller after that.

Also as a note from what i have read from posts and observed first hand, in order to allow the pivot controller to have the headlights at the low rise setup while the headlights are on, you need to cut the BLUE with silver markings wire on the rectractor control unit and splice the BLACK and YELLOW wires FROM the pivot unit to the corresponding ends of the BLUE with silver markings wire from the retractor control unit. If you are going to utilize stock headlights or need the headlight assemblys to fully open in order for the healights to function properly, then you have to splice the wires just as how the pivot controller states (cutting the yellow wire, instead of blue).

The pivot controller was meant to have a lowrise setup with the lights OFF, not ON, which is why the instructions say to cut the YELLOW wire on the retractor control unit. But if you want it to work sort of opposite and have the low rise setup also with the headlights ON, then you have to cut the BLUE with silver wire on the retractor control unit.

Also on the pivot controller, the RED wire is ground, and GRAY wire is for 12v source.

The colors may be diffrent for our setup (though i expect it it to be very close. same era toyotas), but the concept is the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm waiting about a month before I do it. The AW11 guys (with exact same dimension headlights as us) are fixing to have a low rise dual projector kit for 150 bucks. After that comes out I'll fit it to the supra and do the pivot controller.

Controllable dual projectors for less than 250 bucks. That's what I'm talking about.
 

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ƒ=1/2π(√k/m)
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I just kinda judge in seconds when to switch from the last notch... to the notch before the Parking Light.

:D

works for me.

 

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boost freak
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was there any doubt the pivot controller didn't work for us?

IIRC its real simple inside, if you do get one i could probably copy it fairly easily....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
was there any doubt the pivot controller didn't work for us
No, it's just that folks weren't wanting to use it because it only works in "sleepy mode" while the headlights are off. I was just posting to show how to make it work while they are on.
 

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ok, im gonna go out on a limb here but whats to say this just isnt a differnt relay with a potentimeter installed in place of a resistor. I dont know anything bout how these lights work or a hole lot bout electronics, but is there a relay that control the lights moving up and down... and if there is, would it be possible to pinpoint the right resistor and instead replace it with a potentimeter (dimmer switch w/ current). Only reaosn this idea came to mind is cause on my honda i rigged up adjustable turn signals this same way, now i can adjusts how fast or slow my tunr signals blink.
 

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haha.... no. To not go into much detail on how electronics work I will try to explain. (Im a electrican)

Volts= well...... Voltage
Current = Amperage (current) the device you are operating is drawing from your power source.
Resistor- Used to cut back current or voltage ( or monitoring devices)
Pot- Resistance over a field of resistors.... you can control or set how much amperage is sending over a line by adjusting the "knob"

I beleive this unit just uses a "in Line" Pot. With the Lights Off (or you could wire in a Diode so you can operate the lights on also) It just controls the Amperage to the motors. If you turn it on slowly the lights will come up slowly untill you turn down the pot to not allow enough current to operate the motors.

I honestly could make one of these.... And i may just look into it.... seems simple enough.

Trey
 

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yeah thats what i was thinkin about, you da man... i mean, like 15 dollars in materials, If that VS some 65 to 100 dollar unit that does the same shit
 

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how many watts do the headlight motors run on?
 

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my dman lights dont flip down at the same rate >(... when i flick them on off quick, tehy wont stay at the same height... one of the motors has less power or something ??? im guessing i cant use this till i get it sorted out...

Ang
 

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helps you jump higher
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You do know these things arn't really made FOR sleepy eyes right?


Anyways they are pretty cool, I was messing with one in this guys 240sx, you can adjust it from ~25% up to the full 100% up from in the car with a turn of a knob, and they have a thing that you can install that measures the temp of your engine (hinting back to the real reason to own one)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
AZmkiii said:
You do know these things arn't really made FOR sleepy eyes right?


Anyways they are pretty cool, I was messing with one in this guys 240sx, you can adjust it from ~25% up to the full 100% up from in the car with a turn of a knob, and they have a thing that you can install that measures the temp of your engine (hinting back to the real reason to own one)
There are two versions of this. One is the plain old sleepy eyes version. The other one has a temp sensour that you can set to raise the "scoop" higher at a certain temp, if you want.

The temp version costs like 150 bucks though.
 

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I have the pivot controller installed in my Supra. I'll try the change in wiring and see if it works the opposite way. I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes. If it does work I might just have to see how far Keith H. is along or get some NSX Headlights. Thanks for the info.

Ernest
 

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JDMSoopraDriftoMachine!!1
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Keep us posted, I'm all up for it as well. The difference in drag from stock to sleepy on the freeway is enough to convince me, I remember a noticeable difference.

Ultra7m: you owe me a new pair of jeans... I never knew you had a cardomain page =)
 

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boost freak
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SupraTrey said:
haha.... no. To not go into much detail on how electronics work I will try to explain. (Im a electrican)

Volts= well...... Voltage
Current = Amperage (current) the device you are operating is drawing from your power source.
Resistor- Used to cut back current or voltage ( or monitoring devices)
Pot- Resistance over a field of resistors.... you can control or set how much amperage is sending over a line by adjusting the "knob"

I beleive this unit just uses a "in Line" Pot. With the Lights Off (or you could wire in a Diode so you can operate the lights on also) It just controls the Amperage to the motors. If you turn it on slowly the lights will come up slowly untill you turn down the pot to not allow enough current to operate the motors.

I honestly could make one of these.... And i may just look into it.... seems simple enough.

Trey
heh. no comment....
 

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I think it would be amusing if the controller also automatically opened up the headlights when the car ran too-hot. A relay is triggered by the factory overtemp switch. The relay trips the headlight switch to open the headlights, exposing the cavities in the front-end to promote extra air-flow. Sounds silly, but if you were about to have meltdown due to a cooling system component failure, you'd enjoy the extra safety margin provided by the increased airflow. The visual of the headlights popping-up would trigger your attention to the cooling temp gauge as well! Running two extra miles at 7/8 of hot-temp, chatting on the phone. Not applicable to those who alrady run fixed ductwork from nose to the filter area.

The user page linked below noted that a timer is used to *interrupt* the current to the headlight motors. (It does not *reduce* the level of current.) I'm not sure if the supra's factory circuit uses a fixed amount of time to acuate the motors, a current-sense, or a position-feedback to determine when the reach the top/bottom. (Anyone?)

Found one user note here:
http://celica.net/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=40;t=000034

(If this guy is correct in his observation.)
I'd say you could replicate the funtion of the PIVOT controller for less than $10. To make them professional, it would cost more for proper assembly/housing ect.

Voltage Regulator (Noisy car environment.)
555 IC Timer or equiv
Rotary potentiometer
Transistors or Mini Relays
Supporting Discretes: Caps, Resistors
Cute LED
Sm piece of proto board
Case, Knob, Wire

As noted, it'd be cheap to make a few by hand. If one wanted to produce them, a small PCB to facilitate quick component assembly and matching case would be needed.
 
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