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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i don't want to start a debate thread... but I'm curious what you are all running for coolant. I'm (maybe old school?) a bit of a firm believer in sticking with OEM stuff, but is that still necessary?

What are you guys running and why? I need to put some fresh cool juice in my car and am debating spending $35/gal for the toyota concentrate stuff vs other options....
 

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I run universal stuff in absolutely everything, from German cars to American cars to Japanese Cars. And I've never had an issue. But that could be because I'm always modifying my cars and have to drain the fluids. I get tired of spending lots of money on expensive stuff. You could run water if your climate is always warm enough. I think cooling systems are way less picky than most people think.

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I run universal stuff in absolutely everything, from German cars to American cars to Japanese Cars. And I've never had an issue. But that could be because I'm always modifying my cars and have to drain the fluids. I get tired of spending lots of money on expensive stuff. You could run water if your climate is always warm enough. I think cooling systems are way less picky than most people think.

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Such wasn't always the case, there's more than a few cases of Dexcool GM cars getting the wrong coolant and causing serious issues. I'd agree that it's not a terribly common problem with most normal cars though.
I still prefer Toyota red for Toyotas, and it's not difficult at all to save your coolant for re-use if it's still fresh.

But running 100% water should NEVER be done long-term. For a competition car that must run straight water for track cleanup/hazwaste purposes, it should be drained and cleaned out after every event.
This is especially critical for iron block engines. Running 100% water will cause rust to form inside the coolant passages and it'll muck up your coolant and thereby muck up everything in the cooling system. Once that's started in an iron block engine it's a motherfucker to clean out.
 

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Dexcool, it's own debate for another page. I've seen countless cars come in with 100k plus on original dexcool in partially solid form..
 

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Toyota Red because it's the best choice for a system with aluminum, iron, and brass. When I first got the car in 1992, not knowing any better, I ran plain' ol' Prestone green. I think I switched to Toyota Red after my radiator clogged up enough that the car overheated around 180k miles. Hindsight is 20/20...
 

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Anyone tried this? $19 and marked for Toyota vehicles. Looks like a replacement for Toyota OEM stuff and its easy to find. Just walk in an Autozone and pick it up.
Liquid Fluid Material property Flooring Automotive cleaning

My system is drained right now so its not too late to make a change. I found green coolant in the system and purchased this to replace it..claims to go in everything. Any experience out there with this? Good or bad?
Liquid Fluid Flooring Service Bottle cap

I also hate to change a good subject but I found GL5 (very strong S odor when I cracked it open) in my W58 trans which was clunky and started looking around for GL4. Can't find GL4 on the shelf any more just Synchromax type fluids like Royal Purple which is crazy expensive and Redline's price for GL4 is also high. I don't care to put a syncromax type fluid in because they have no S at all. These old cases were all designed for GL4. I thought this was a good find, you can get 3 quarts for $33 and the trans is much smoother now. Has anyone tried this and had good results?

Tire Liquid Sports equipment Automotive tire Automotive lighting
 

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Anyone tried this? $19 and marked for Toyota vehicles. Looks like a replacement for Toyota OEM stuff and its easy to find. Just walk in an Autozone and pick it up.
Red and pink are fundamentally different (PIAT versus POAT). Peak Asian is a POAT to match Toyota pink and you can see on the label it says for 1990 and newer. With the brass/solder in our systems I would not use a POAT though some people say POAT without 2-Ehexanoic acid is ok.

Another thing to consider is that Toyota red is a concentrate that is mixed 50:50 so that $19 premix is the same as paying $38 for a jug of red.
 

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I also hate to change a good subject but I found GL5 (very strong S odor when I cracked it open) in my W58 trans which was clunky and started looking around for GL4. Can't find GL4 on the shelf any more just Synchromax type fluids like Royal Purple which is crazy expensive and Redline's price for GL4 is also high. I don't care to put a syncromax type fluid in because they have no S at all. These old cases were all designed for GL4. I thought this was a good find, you can get 3 quarts for $33 and the trans is much smoother now. Has anyone tried this and had good results?
The only transmission oil I recommend is Red Line. It may seem expensive, but take into account that it will last much longer than cheaper oil so may actually be cheaper in the long run.

If I were you, I'd do a short OCI or two, like 20 miles, of something cheap like SuperTech GL4 to flush out the GL5 stuff. Then fill it with Red Line and be enjoy the performance.
 

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The only transmission oil I recommend is Red Line. It may seem expensive, but take into account that it will last much longer than cheaper oil so may actually be cheaper in the long run.

If I were you, I'd do a short OCI or two, like 20 miles, of something cheap like SuperTech GL4 to flush out the GL5 stuff. Then fill it with Red Line and be enjoy the performance.
So far so good with the Ultra Plus GL4. Noticed a big difference in shift quality and satisfied so far. Low S content, and no friction modifiers which seems to be added to almost all gear oils now. It behaves like the GL4 I used to buy way back for $3 a quart. Just wondering if anyone else has tried it. I have not seen it mentioned on any forum.
 

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Red and pink are fundamentally different (PIAT versus POAT). Peak Asian is a POAT to match Toyota pink and you can see on the label it says for 1990 and newer. With the brass/solder in our systems I would not use a POAT though some people say POAT without 2-Ehexanoic acid is ok.

Another thing to consider is that Toyota red is a concentrate that is mixed 50:50 so that $19 premix is the same as paying $38 for a jug of red.
I checked some MSDSs for Prestone products and Peak. I would agree to leave Prestone alone, even their Asian Red copy. Prestone uses 2 EHA in their long life products up to 5%. Peak Asian Red/Pink marked for Toyotas seems to be very close to the OEM Red you refer to. Peak does not add 2 EHA, they use a more expensive inhibitor, denatonium benzoate, which is safer for our older car's seals and lead solder than 2 EHA. I also see that Pentofrost A1 is even closer to Toyota OEM red and a good option also without 2 EHA. The silicate / nitrate free POAT coolants, are generally fine as long as they don't contain the 2 EHA. Seems a lot of manufacturers are avoiding 2 EHA in modern cars because of damage it can do to seals and plastics. Not so much high lead solder out there anymore, but we still have to worry about it.

Coolant used to be so easy when engines were just made of metal.
 

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I'm using Peak green conventional PKA0B3 antifreeze concentrated that you mix 50-50 with distilled water. I have a all copper brass radiator and It's supposed to be better for it. The pH settles to about 9.5 when new and diluted. It lasts about 3 years. When the pH gets anywhere near 7 It's time to change it. The capacity of the system is 2 gallons and I notice that when you drain it at the drain cock you get out about 1.3 gallons. I would only flush the system with distilled water unless you're taking off the radiator and back flushing it with a hose. Final flush it with distilled water. Walmart has distilled water for less than a dollar a gallon. Long-lasting antifreeze like POAT has a pH closer to 7 that I'm trying to avoid although it's stable longer say 5 years or so. You can test the pH of your coolant using test strips or a inexpensive pH meter found on eBay.
 

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Bruder thanks for sharing your experience and bringing up Ph which I was not thinking about at all. I have a 92 Camry 3VZ-FE that is still in the family. It used Toyota Red and came with an Al radiator from the factory. All was good until after about 15 years of use, the Al radiator's rubber top seal failed. I was sold a Cu aftermarket radiator and installed it. I noted the material difference but that was all I could get at the time and my wife was pushing to get back in the car. POAT went back in, we did a lot of driving and 5 years later the radiator was mush. My replacement was Al 13 years ago, I filled with POAT again and the car is still out there. I had forgotten all of that. Thanks for making me remember the details again.

Since this car is a new acquisition I'm still working my way around to see what I have on it. The radiator in my 89 is still a Toyota OEM part visibly with yellow metals in it, definitely not Al and still looks very good inside and out. Peak Asian Red/Pink POAT is listed at Ph of 7.7. Pentofrost A1 is at 7.9 which because of their chemical similarity, Toyota Red POAT is going to be there too. It appears that for those of us who still have good OEM radiators installed POAT may not be the best way to go since these cars came with an IAT based coolant originally which did not corrode the Cu. I suspect a lot of members have already changed to Al radiators by now and won't be bothered by the lower Ph in POATs so much. The conventional stuff still contains silicates and nitrites which are not good for thin Al. I checked on the Peak Conventional and this product uses the same coating inhibitor as the Asian denatonium benzoate, no 2EHA. I don't mind servicing more often with IAT, but all of these are interesting tradeoffs. And before I forget, my block was drained too so this will be a total replacement. The green stuff that came out was clear and I did not see a spec of any other material in the drain pan.

I'm going to go get a drink and meditate on this I will.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Wow... this thread has turned up a lot better info than I actually expected! Thank you to everyone who has replied.

What do you guys think of this option: More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 2521002

2 gallons concentrate, with shipping, $40 delivered, not terrible.
 
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