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Cheifbootknocka
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Mgps13 - Had the motor been opened and aftermarket bearings/TW installed or is that OEM?
 

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oem aristo bottom end
Get a SOuthbend Clutch and you will never have to worry about this again!

I've lost 4 blocks using rps and act , i switched to southbend last year and 20k miles in less than a year and no problem so far.

pedal feels like stock and will handle 700whp so no problem.
 

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Now...Whitesupra94
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Get a SOuthbend Clutch and you will never have to worry about this again!

I've lost 4 blocks using rps and act , i switched to southbend last year and 20k miles in less than a year and no problem so far.

pedal feels like stock and will handle 700whp so no problem.
I love my southbend. My 6puck and ACT PP lasted about 8k miles. Never had crank walk but that clutch was a major pain in the ass. LOVE my southbend! over 10k on it at 500whp and no issues.
 

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Get a SOuthbend Clutch and you will never have to worry about this again!

I've lost 4 blocks using rps and act , i switched to southbend last year and 20k miles in less than a year and no problem so far.

pedal feels like stock and will handle 700whp so no problem.
I've had a Southbend OFE Stage 3 for 3 years with Zero Issues, Just in case I did the Clutch Safety Switch Mod so I start it in neutral without the clutch.
 

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I had southbend last me 27k miles in 1year, no clutch switch bypass and no crankwalk!!

I had act last me 5k , 3 different ones and lost 3-4 blocks with clutch bypass since they were auto cars that were converted to manual.

I still think it's the act clutch HD pressureplate that promotes crankwalk..
 

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I bought mine with the southbend pressure plate and what seems to be a stock disc, I dont know how many miles before i got it but ive put almost 10k on it so far at abt 450 without any issues. I also did the clutch bypass because of fear of crank walk. The previous owner hadnt.
 

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Last year I put a brand new built block in running an rps carbon carbon clutch. After about 2500 miles the crank started to walk. Lucky enough for me I got it back to the shop in time . No damage to the block. The machine shop who built it put some sort of retrofitted pin in so the crankshaft won't walk ever again. I'm not sure exactly what they did but if you call mike at e -shift performance he is the owner of the shop I use, he can tell you what the machine shop did. 7325539301 my name is mike btw and it's the 94 red tt auto to 6 spd swap. If I get in touch with him I will try to post the exact directions. Btw the compression is 150 across the board after this incident. No smoke and runs beautifully so it is possible to catch it in time

Thank you for posting this.

I would like to find out the specifics of the modification to prevent crank walk, so I will try to contact them.
 

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best thing to minimize the crankwalk is to use the clutch when its needed, NOT start with the clutch down, the supras clutch switch in us must have wrecked a lot of blocks,same at traffic lights use it when its time to go, and use a twin/tripple/quad to
stress of the crank, better with more area then high pressure plate and single disc,

dosent matter if you put any mecanical stop to the crank,if the oilfilm on thrust bearing is lost due to the fact that you for example start engine with your clutch down then the material gonna start grinding of and after a while its metal to metal,
best thing to do would to have the thrust bearings with oil pressure like rest of the bearings. or a ball bearing axial bearing, but it would not last as along as a journal bearing.

so if you think how and when to use your clutch the right way with aftermarket clutches and for the more high hp cars then its gonna last long time, i build an engine for a person several years ago and was using a rps tripple carbon and put 30000 miles on it,and last year we just did a winter check to see how the internals look,its a e85 800whp car, all bearings look like new,thrust bearings had same play as it was installed, so use clutch the right way is the best prevent of crankwalk.
 

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Get a SOuthbend Clutch and you will never have to worry about this again!

I've lost 4 blocks using rps and act , i switched to southbend last year and 20k miles in less than a year and no problem so far.

pedal feels like stock and will handle 700whp so no problem.
Reading this thread is scaring me like crazy! I just singled the car and looking into a good clutch to hold 700whp. I see you guys are kinda approving SB clutches but is it still not recommended to use a single disc clutch? Getting a twin disc clutch is over twice the amount. Mine never had the clutch switch and i do not have crank walk.

Is it ok for me to get a SB single disc? Or just save up to get an RPS CC?
 

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Hardtop Crew
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damn this thread makes me angry and scared =( Alot of good info. Looking into a new clutch setup and read up here. damn
 

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Best thing to minimize the crank walk is to use the clutch when its needed, NOT start with the clutch down, the supra's clutch switch in US must have wrecked a lot of blocks,same at traffic lights use it when its time to go, and use a twin/triple/quad to stress of the crank, better with more area then high pressure plate and single disc,

Doesn't matter if you put any mechanical stop to the crank,if the oil film on thrust bearing is lost due to the fact that you for example start engine with your clutch down then the material gonna start grinding of and after a while its metal to metal, best thing to do would to have the thrust bearings with oil pressure like rest of the bearings. or a ball bearing axial bearing, but it would not last as along as a journal bearing.

So if you think how and when to use your clutch the right way with aftermarket clutches and for the more high hp cars then its gonna last long time, i build an engine for a person several years ago and was using a rps triple carbon and put 30000 miles on it,and last year we just did a winter check to see how the internals look,its a e85 800whp car, all bearings look like new,thrust bearings had same play as it was installed, so use clutch the right way is the best prevent of crank walk.
I agree 100%. I used an ACT Xtreme PP for a 30,000+ miles with no crank walk issues as I always do exactly as mojje mentioned above.
 

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Just purchased an aristo motor that dropped a thrust washer recently. He was running an OS Giken twin plate in his s14. It was previously automatic although he did drift it a lot after getting the motor in. After pulling off the main cap, the remaining washer is stuck and there is a tiny bit of damage on the lip that is supposed to hold the washer that flew out in place.
 

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After reading this thread for the second time some questions pops into my head.

Those of you who have experienced crank walk, did you have a very light flywheel installed as well? Light undampened crank pulley? Or maybe both? Could that have something to do with it in conjunction with a heavy pressure plate? I guess that would definitely not better the problem. But i guess the main reason for crank walk cooks down to insufficient lubrication in this case. It would be great to know what kind of engine oil those of you who experienced crank walk was running to see if there is any similarities, ie very thick/thin oil, synthetic/non synthetic etc.

I only run Motul's 300V series oil in my engines. One of the reasons why i chose this oil is because the 300V series includes esters added specifically to help the oil "bond" better to the metal surfaces. An engine with normal synthetic oil will, after a given period of time, have no oil film left on cylinder walls, bearings etc when it is not in use. And this is where the ester technology comes in, it makes sure the oil "bonds" to the metal surfaces much better so that there will always be an oil film whatever amount of time your engine is unused to prevent metal-to-metal contact. In my head this must be a definite pro for our thrust bearing lubrication problem.

I'm just thinking out loud, i would appreciate your opinion on my thoughts.
 

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Just purchased an aristo motor that dropped a thrust washer recently. He was running an OS Giken twin plate in his s14. It was previously automatic although he did drift it a lot after getting the motor in. After pulling off the main cap, the remaining washer is stuck and there is a tiny bit of damage on the lip that is supposed to hold the washer that flew out in place.
Maybe the damage was already done, and then he swapped to a twin disc clutch?

Ive never heard or see it happen on a multiple discs clutch..

I know it happens on Auto.
 

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Reading this thread is scaring me like crazy! I just singled the car and looking into a good clutch to hold 700whp. I see you guys are kinda approving SB clutches but is it still not recommended to use a single disc clutch? Getting a twin disc clutch is over twice the amount. Mine never had the clutch switch and i do not have crank walk.
Be happy you didn't buy a modded GSX, they were well known for this. As to the crank-walk, yes it's a problem, but think about how long it's taken us to even realize it was a problem? i.e. it's not even in the same ballpark.

It would be interesting to see statistics as to what different people (who had this happen) had installed over at least the last few years.
 

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Maybe the damage was already done, and then he swapped to a twin disc clutch?

Ive never heard or see it happen on a multiple discs clutch..

I know it happens on Auto.
Yeah, it's highly possible that most of the damage was already done. Coincidentally enough though, the problems started happening after he hit his oil pan. Not sure if it's possible to knock the thrust washer out of place but I wouldn't be surprised considering it'll just fall out when worn down enough.
 

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I can't open the pics of the clutch switch location in this thread for some reason.
Would someone repost a couple of jpegs of them please. I want to do the mod asap before i take the car out of storage for the season.
Thanks much !
 
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