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Its right by the clutch pedal. Just disconnect the clip and connect the wires together. Easy as that.
Thanks VB !
I was thinking of putting a momentary switch somewhere handy to the key so that it would remind me to put the car in neutral and brake before turning the engine over. Even better would be a photo electric switch or similar on the gearshift so it was a closed contact when in neutral.
I will post something if I get it done.
 

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I have read this thread front to back. Forgive my bump but I feel that a previous question about whether or not SouthBend clutches are a safer bet than most wasn't really answered.

I wish I had discovered this thread some time ago. There is one other major SF thread on crankwalk and I did read up on that one some years back well before I began my engine build. It was enough to convince me to disable my SC's neutral safety switch as soon as I installed my R154 transmission. But at the time I had a stock NA 2JZ-GE and all I needed clutch-wise was a cheap OEM MKIII Turbo clutch kit.

Fast forward to now. I've built a bone-stock 2JZGTE. Completely stock other than ARP head bolts. It's only at stock boost also. The most boring 2JZGTE possible. But I still needed a better clutch than the OEM 7MGTE kit. So after a lot of research I went with a SouthBend Stage 2 Daily. Just as with the strict engine break-in I followed the 750-850 mile break-in from SB. It didn't quite hold the power so SB suggested a Stage 3 daily kit for the R154. It... mostly holds the power in most situations but not all situations. I've run that SB Stage 3 kit for just over 1,000 miles at this point and the new engine has just barely 4k miles on it since it was first turned over. And I just daily this car. I don't race with it. I hardly keep it over 4k rpms most of the time.

It just cruises mostly with some boost when I want some acceleration. That should paint an accurate picture of how I am using the car. And I NEVER start with the clutch pressed in. I haven't with this engine and I haven't in years. I always check the oil level too.


Now, after having read this entire thread I am not only interested in a different clutch that can hold more torque than I am putting out but I am VERY concerned that in the short amount of time running a SB Stage 2 PP and now a SB Stage 3 PP I am slowly welcoming crank walk. The V160 clutch kits seem to be what everyone references when they talk about with South Bend not so much R154's. Both transmissions are pull-types so they both have the same effect on the rear crank thrust bearing.

I am now planning to buy an OS Giken Grand Touring twin disc clutch/flywheel kit which suits my power level and is advertised to offer an anti-rattle system of some kind which is a nice plus. Obviously there are many multi-plate clutch options available for many intended uses and far higher power levels.

My question is, while I sort out getting the OSG twin kit and actually get it into my car, should driving on the SB Stage 3 R154 pressure plate, despite my other precautions, be strictly minimized or outright stopped altogether until said twin plate is installed?

Again, I don't have a high horsepower 2JZGTE or even a BPU'd one. It's just on stock twins at stock boost. It just needed a clutch kit with better holding power than an OEM MKIII R154 clutch. Of course with a V160 and its OEM clutch kit there is no issue but that's not my scenario.

I have read so much about their good reputation in the SF community, at least with V160 transmissions but I hope even their products aren't contributors all the same to the potential of crankwalk failures.

I am certainly going to switch to an OS Giken twin plate as soon as possible but I guess I am really asking if I should stop all driving of the car on the SB Stage 3 PP (R154 spec) until that happens.

Thanks all. A lot has been said here but I did want to follow up on a previous poster's question as to whether or not SB clutches are relatively or somewhat safe options as to the main topic of this thread. Or if they, like all other single disc traditional clutches against these engines in a V160 or R154... are still not ultimately safe to use even at very low or stock power levels.
 
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