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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I'm looking into putting a 7m-GTE in a BMW 328i. It just seems like a great thing to do for someone who wants a cheap, reliable, 350rwhp...but I got some questions and my Supra knowledge has thinned a bit so forgive the noobish ones.

First, will the CT26 handle 350+rwhp, or do I need to look at something else?

What all needs to to be done to support 350+? I assume lafm/550's (along with an S-AFC and a big walbro), good intake, intercooler, exhaust, and 18~20psi?

Obscure, but does anyone know the distance between the front of the bell housing to the shifter on the R154?

I'm also curious what all systems are run by the ECU? Does the dash operate fully off the ECU or is it just the tach and idiot lights? Does it run the fuel pump?

Lastly, what were the available ranges for the rear ends on the MKIII? I know they were pretty short...4:10 comes to the mind but can't remember if they were that short.

My plan here is to stab a 7m and a R154 into the car and fuse the MKIII drive shaft to the M52's stock drive shaft. A lot of the BMW dash runs independent of the ECU...only tach and lights, but the BMW tach operates like an aftermarket one (power, signal, ground...not data), so all I'll need to source from the MKIII ECU is a tach signal and my idiot light signals and splice them into the stock harness.

It's hard to explain and seems real simple in my mind, but I know it probably won't be. Any help with the questions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 

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If you want more than 300, you'll need to upgrade your CT26 if you want to keep everything easy and bolt on.

But if you're the fabrication type, go with a T4 or a 60-1 turbo, manifold, and do 4" exhaust all the way back, FMIC, Injectors, Lexus AFM housing, and stand alone. You'll be knocking on 400's door. I highly recommend you get a good tune on the dyno to keep it reliable.

Do you plan on building the engine or keeping the OEM internals? At least send the head to the machine shop to deck the head surface and go with a Cometic headgasket and ARP studs/bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Standard BHG preventatives will apply :)...but I did get good at changing the damn things.

Okay, I couldn't remember where the stock CT's limitations were. I'll have to check out upgrade costs. Wasn't there someone who trimmed the CT26 for around $500? I'd like to have a T4 and might try to make one work...I have to be the "fabrication" type to try to put a 7m into an E36.
 

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If you want more than 300, you'll need to upgrade your CT26 if you want to keep everything easy and bolt on.

But if you're the fabrication type, go with a T4 or a 60-1 turbo, manifold, and do 4" exhaust all the way back, FMIC, Injectors, Lexus AFM housing, and stand alone. You'll be knocking on 400's door. I highly recommend you get a good tune on the dyno to keep it reliable.

Do you plan on building the engine or keeping the OEM internals? At least send the head to the machine shop to deck the head surface and go with a Cometic headgasket and ARP studs/bolts.
4in exhaust is way overkill for 350 hp
 

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Standard BHG preventatives will apply :)...but I did get good at changing the damn things.

Okay, I couldn't remember where the stock CT's limitations were. I'll have to check out upgrade costs. Wasn't there someone who trimmed the CT26 for around $500? I'd like to have a T4 and might try to make one work...I have to be the "fabrication" type to try to put a 7m into an E36.
Well, I don't know if you were having somebody else to the mounts and whatnot... Well, the cheapest route would be using a modded CT26... that way you can use the stock manifold, oil/coolant lines, DP etc...

4in exhaust is way overkill for 350 hp
I know... I just think it would look cool. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
cheap...reliable....7m?

AWW CMON NOW!
Boosting the M52 will require the frequent exchange of engines or gobs and gobs of money. Only thing the 7m needs is good main bearings and a decent headgasket. I've also had a lot of experience working on them so, while my memory is a bit hazy, I have better ground to stand on with it.

FYI, though...to get 350~400hp out of the M52 you're looking at spending $7~9000 or, roughly, twice the value of the car lol.

Well, I don't know if you were having somebody else to the mounts and whatnot... Well, the cheapest route would be using a modded CT26... that way you can use the stock manifold, oil/coolant lines, DP etc...
Who modifies them and does good work? What's a trimmed CT26 good for?


Gear ratios for MKIII's were 3.73, 3.91, 4.30. There are others too like 4.10 but that might be a bit hard to track down. I think someone makes a 3.54 set too maybe?
That's kind of a bummer...I'll have to find an automatic 328i rear end to get 3.93. My 328 has a 3.31 lsd. I guess it would be crazy up top lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah it fits. Lots of people actually do 1jz and 2jz swaps in the E36 chassis...if the JZ's can fit the only thing keeping the M's from fitting are the 3000 pipes.

However, I am considering going with the 1jz anyway because, after crunching the numbers, it'll actually be a bit cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Problem with 2JZ's are the costs. After selling my M52 and transmission, the swap will cost me $1700 for the 1jz. Think four times that, minimum, to make the 2jz work, plus the obscene modifications you have to do to the tranny tunnels to get that giant getrag in there. Nope nope...my goals are 350hp and the 1jz is well capable of that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
LS1 is a consideration, but not really my style. It's going to be hard for me to do an LS1 and a T56 on my sub-$2000 budget. Just the engine/tranny/wirng/ecu would put me $1000 overbudget...well worth it, but you can only buy so much with imaginary money :). I also can't forget that they don't make 357i badges, but that would be oh so cool.

With the 1j I can be putting down the same power just by cranking up the boost a bit...a they do make 325i-TT badges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay how about this...are there any aftermarket speedometers out there that are compatible with the R154 and cable?

Ideally, though, I'd like something like my TrailTech Vapor...only about four tie larger.
 
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