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the clever guy
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the early planning stages of fabbing an aluminum oil pan with baffles for my 7m. I've done some digging around and have gotten some good ideas and have a basic idea of what I will do but I'm fishing for some more info. Anyone have some really good photos of baffle configurations?

Overall, I'm looking at a 7 quart baffled pan that would use the stock pickup, for now. I'm also thinking of a dry sump set up which may actually be easier to fabricate. Let's see some of your thoughts. :D
 

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Canada, Eh?
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oneway baffles seem to be a good idea, so when cornering hard the oil is trapped right by the pickup. have you considered a windage tray/crank scrapper? not sure what the advantages are, just seen them on lots of smallblocks.
 

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VIVA LA M.A.S.H. Midwest
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1,451 Posts
Make the pan with a tilt down towards the rear end of the car, weld in -10 & -8 fittings at the end of the tilt, add dry sump. ENJOY.
 

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Or take a block, crank and pump to Ricky at www.oilpans.com and he'll make whatever you want in aluminum or steel. No junk either, top shelf work. He's near Louisville, KY on the Indiana side. He's the one that did my stock pan in the picture above.
 

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25psi = 14" brakes :)
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Do not forget where your oil filter is located. (The pan in the photo would make changing the stock located filter very difficult at best.)
If you just want more oil in the system, use the stock oil cooler lines, and add in a huge cooler. (Honda radiator sized that holds a few extra quarts of oil...) Mazda RX7 Turbo II used a cooler that looks like a short radiator, and that would be a good start.
The VR6 Jetta uses a secondary radiator that goes where the FMIC on the TDI and 1.8 turbo has it, and that would be a good oil cooler for more capacity. (They are way too expensive new, but used might be a good option.)
The large oil coolers would not be too expensive either. Less than 150.00 new, or go "dumpster diving" at the local salvage yard, and pick up a large truck oil cooler for 20.00 or so. Making up the fittings should be 20 to 30 total and if your thrifty about it, 50.00 total might get you a quart or so of extra capacity in the oil system, and a better cooler while your at it.
 

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No One Ever Listens To Me
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ok i wanna learn something..what are "baffles"? :dunno:
 

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A Happy Dad
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IdealSupra said:
ok i wanna learn something..what are "baffles"? :dunno:
typically vertical or horizontal plates that compartmentalize the storage area be it an oil pan or settling pond, etc., sometimes with openings to meter flow or slots or open on one end or the other.

very simply, used to keep the fluid in one portion of the device longer
 

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No One Ever Listens To Me
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mdr40z said:
typically vertical or horizontal plates that compartmentalize the storage area be it an oil pan or settling pond, etc., sometimes with openings to meter flow or slots or open on one end or the other.

very simply, used to keep the fluid in one portion of the device longer
thank you sir! :D
 

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25psi = 14" brakes :)
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Anyone know if we ran a larger "sump" as part of a cooler system that was designed to drain back into the pan (overfilling it while the engine is not running) could cause problems?
Here is my thought.
Similar to a RX7 oil cooler, design one up with either a large set of end tanks like a radiator, or put a sump accumulator in the system that holds a quart or two of oil while the engine is running. (adds to the volume of the system, but not to the pan.)
I know under start up there would be two extra quarts of oil, but as soon as the bypass starts sending oil to the cooler, the "sump" or extra would be filled up and the pan level would drop to normal.
I always run my car slightly over full anyway. (Another thread for the reasons why. See the guy who's got the modded pan, he also put a GM style pickup on the oil pump as our design sucks if your oil level drops at all below full.)
 
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Adjuster, if you use a large oil cooler like the Rx7 ones (which are really huge), the oil should stay in the cooler even after engine is shut off. Since the bypass valve is closed with the engine not running, and it cannot drain, unless the bypass valve is faulty and it leaks. With the accumulator it will drain, but even then it will not cause any problems.

As far as oil pan ideas, I've searched high and low, both on the internet and in the libraries in my city, and came up with very little information.

The biggest concern with any kind of baffles, or "one way doors" is the fact that if you design them wrong, or they stick closed, you just made your engine into a big scrap of metal. While the baffles prevent the oil from leaving the pickup as quickly, they also prevent the oil from reaching it as quickly also.

Since the stock pan works fine as long as you keep the oil level up, I've decided to not screw around with it and keep well enough alone. If you run synthetic oil, you don't even need the oil cooler, unless you are really torturing your car on a road course or something.

Okay, so that really didn't help anyone. :) I thought these ball check valves used as one way doors are kind of cool. I'd be worried about sludge and sticking though:

http://www.billetfab.com/pans.htm
 

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25psi = 14" brakes :)
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2,306 Posts
Thanks Shawndude, your right, the valve would prevent most if not all of the oil in the cooler from draining back into the pan, but as soon as fresh oil is introduced, it would allow that excess oil into the engine again.
Here is my plan.
Use the stock oil cooler for the power steering system.
Get a used (Read sourced cheaper) oil cooler from a F-350 or other truck, or if the price is right, the RX7 unit.
The truck coolers might fit better however, and a quick walk through most junk yards will turn up many of them in excellent shape, even some with threaded fittings so AN style adapters could be used. (Mostly for appearance as clamp on hoses work fine, the pressure here is not that much considering the system is open into the pan on one side.)
One other thing that was not discussed here, and should be is filter location and size.
IF you can find the space, moving your stock filter location to one easy to reach is a good idea. You can also move up to dual filters, and then run the longer body truck versions of that filter. This mod alone will add a few quarts to your system. Just be sure to fill your filter prior to installing it as your engine will fill the filter first, and not your bearings. (Causing wear possibly on startup every time you change your oil.)
I personally run a longer 3600 oil filter in my stock location. It is quite a bit longer than the stock design, and holds more oil as a result. (also has more filter area.) I run Mobile 1 15/50 all the time too. Change the oil 2x per year, about every 6 months. No issues, and the oil stays clean mostly too.
Later.
 

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the clever guy
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Here is what I did.

I don't have pictures of the finished product, or the baffles that I put in. I did this for a 7M into a truck with IFS and 4x4. This oil pan acutally holds an extra quart of oil.
That's basically the other option I'm looking at, as opposed to fabbing an aluminum pan from scratch. I like the idea of aluminum with one way baffles.

The biggest concern with any kind of baffles, or "one way doors" is the fact that if you design them wrong, or they stick closed, you just made your engine into a big scrap of metal. While the baffles prevent the oil from leaving the pickup as quickly, they also prevent the oil from reaching it as quickly also.
The flapper door type valves look like the safest bet. This modified BMW pan is what I'm basing my ideas on. Rubber, hingeless flaps that can be opened easily one way and seal well the other.
 
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Wow, SuperRunner, how can you weld it well enough so it doesn't leak? I'm sure I couldn't. :(

Boostedstr8six, those rubber doors look interesting. 18 dollars a piece though?

What I don't understand about many of the flaps or doors, is why are they so high off the bottom of the pan. The one shown at your link, is like at least one inch off the bottom of the pan. That means the one inch of oil cannot get to the oil pickup, as it will be trapped by the wall.
 

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the clever guy
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
What I don't understand about many of the flaps or doors, is why are they so high off the bottom of the pan.
One of my questions also. I can see having them up about 10mm to allow for valve/flapper clearance to the bottom of the pan but as much as those pics illustrate doesn't make any sense to me. I could be missing something though.
 
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