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feeding your habit
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I want to cut my fenders, they're rubbing on my 2" lowered 19" rimmed car.... I don't want to have to paint anything that is viewable from outside once I'm done.

what is a good method & tool for cutting the fenders without damaging the paint?

What cutoff tool won't damage paint (heat?) if I cut the inner fender and what do you do to protect the paint from heat while cutting? What have you used? 3" cutting wheel? sawzall? - i'm too impatient to f-around with a dremel......

If rolling with the eastwood roller, how do you prevent it from distorting the outer fender? cracking paint?

Cutting seems to be the method of choice over rolling.... I'd like some opinions and advice from people who have actually done this please. If you have done it and had problems, detailing the problems would be most helpful. Any long term problems as a result?

-M
 

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'95 TT
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668 Posts
I brought my first supra to a local body shop, and told them exactly how I wanted to have the fenders cut. It came out perfect and didn't had to worry about rubbing at all.

My second supra, I rolled the fenders and it was the worse decision I've ever made. I was too impatient to have it done right and it warped the metall in several spots. I then had to have it fixed by a body shop.

I would highly suggest having them cut. I will never even think of rolling a fender ever again.
 

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I cut my own. I used a high speed air cut off wheel. It went really easy with no heat damage to the paint. I marked the line with a paint pen and then just wore a good pair of safety goggles. After I was done I taped off the fender and primered the area cut and then undercoated the primered area, it's been 2yrs without any problems.

Mike
 

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I havent had to roll/cut yet but will in the future and have read up on it some. Most people end up cutting. Its easier for the average person or body shop and wont damage the paint.

If you have the OEM paint, a GOOD body shop with LOTS OF EXPERIANCE with rolling fenders can do it. I cant remember his name, but someone one SF owns a body shop in northern Florida that goes a damn good job with fender rolling in addition to everything else.

I have heard some people say that it helps to take the wax off and heat the paint up before/durring rolling.
 

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Supra Owner Since 1996
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well if your in a crunch cause your 315 DRs are rubbing at the track. You can take your jack handle and pry against your tire. Actually came out pretty good with taping off the paint to prevent cracking. I was done in 10 minutes with no rubbing. True story.
 

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feeding your habit
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
My plan is to use my air die grinder with a 3" cutoff wheel. Tape everything, draw a line with a sharpie and run cool water over the fender to prevent the paint from getting baked off the hot metal (on the surfaces you can see).

I still need to find some way to compress my shock enough to see where I am going to hit. I'm really concerned with the fronts because it seems like they may be toooooo far out to even do at all....

I think a set of ratcheting shipping tie downs will do to compress the suspension down onto itself. Then I can see.

I spaced the fronts and rears with a set of 15mm spacers. Doesn't seem like much but the wheel wells look soooo much better now. I just have to cross my fingers on the fronts.

I'll see soon! Prolly this weekend.

Thanks for the ideas and let me know what you think of my approach.
-m
 

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eastwood roller wont mess up the fender unless you do a massive roll
just stop once its folded, if you continue after its folded then the outer will start rolling also.
 

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ELITECUSTOMBODY
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man, I just spent half an hour typing on this subject and somehow pressed a Esc button and all my typing went to shit,so I'm not gonna bother to do it again,

if you search, there is atleast one thread every other month on this subject and some pics as well
I recommend rolling, but it takes patience to get the best results,if you opt to cut, use air body saw,your cut-off wheel can make a mess by heating the paint too much and causing it to pop off from the metal
 

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feeding your habit
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
exvelocity said:
man, I just spent half an hour typing on this subject and somehow pressed a Esc button and all my typing went to shit,so I'm not gonna bother to do it again,
I hear you, I hate when I do that.


exvelocity said:
I recommend rolling, but it takes patience to get the best results,if you opt to cut, use air body saw,your cut-off wheel can make a mess by heating the paint too much and causing it to pop off from the metal

I hadn't thought of that. Can you post a link to one of these tools? maybe harbor freight, snap on or some catalog? What reciprocating rate for the saw and what TPI do you recommend on the blade, as that seems to make all the difference.

Thanks....
 

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ELITECUSTOMBODY
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this one will do the job just fine,just don't expect it to work for years if you use it often,lol,you may have to go and buy better blades, not sure,but for one project I think even the HB blades will get it done,as long as you see it cutting,if it get's real slow,use good blade,


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?CategoryID=329&pricetype=

even if you mess up a little and your edge didn't come out as clean as you wanted, you can use a flat metal hand file and smooth out the edge if you don't have access to angle grinder
 

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feeding your habit
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks for the help
 

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488ci V10 Power
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definatly CUT them, dont roll them. Also the rear fenders are 2 pieces internally and i beleive that if you cut "too" much off then it will expose the 2 peices and it may need to be tack welded back together.
 

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T-Power
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MK4LIFE said:
definatly CUT them, dont roll them. Also the rear fenders are 2 pieces internally and i beleive that if you cut "too" much off then it will expose the 2 peices and it may need to be tack welded back together.
You mean roll them.

I opted for cut, since nobody here seems to know how to roll it and want a couple days to do that. It was easy and it came out good. Tape it up, pour some water and start cutting... hardest part was to keep the wheel in place just becareful and you will be alright.

John
 

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listen...both have thier advantages and disadvantages....first off when you cut them get ready to sand the edges down and prime and paint them..casue you cant just cut the lip off and leave exposed metall..you will be replacing fenders due to rust in a few years if you do it half assed...
i just rolled my fenders with the rolling tool 3 days ago...i was having a hard decision choosing if i wanted to roll or cut and i chose to roll..it was the easiest thing ever..i toook it to my friends body shopo just so he could watch me and make sure i wasnt screweing anything up...it was very very easy...i borrowed the tool from his friend and when i brought it back like only 2 hrs later..he was like "your done already" he said that was the fastest he had ever seen anyone roll fenders ..and mine ddint dimple or screw up the outer fender or anything..u cant even tell and its a very very smoothe roll...poeople fuck up thier fenders becasue of rolling becasue they are impatient idiots...
you have to start off with light pressure and you MUST have the rolling wheel at the exact right angle...i must have took the tool of and on like 10 times per fender just to adjust the angle of the wheel so it pushes outwards on the fender and not up...this way it doesnt distort the outer fender...also i didnt have to even heat up the paint...it took me a total of 2 1/2 hrs to roll my fenders...and that wasnt even rushing ..i also stopped and ate lunch...
JUST MAKE SURE YOU TAKE YOUR TIME.....and you dont just roll the tool from one side to the other..i only rolled like 2 inch sections at a time..increasing the pressue very little each time and adjusting the angle of the wheel...

i am very very happy that i didnt cut the fenders becasue it actually is alot more work in the long run...just make sure you take your time.
one fuck up and your fender is done..thats why i MADE SURE I DDINT SCREW UP...

most idiots that roll them usually strap the roling tool to the hub and put the pressure on and just pull the thing back and forth as it destroys the inner and outer fender...DO NOT DO THIS....just take your time and increase pressure gradually and work small sections..i promise you wont regret it...

also my roll is the same all the way around and doesnt show any signs on the outside of the fender...it almost feels like it was that was from the factory....

also i had my car repainted just before i did this (like an idiot) so i knew that it would cost me big time if i fucked up..

ok good luck...
the rolling tool is the way to go...dont listen to people who tell you it will fuck up your fenders..they are usually the people who took the tool for granted and thought it was gonna be easy and the tool just did all the work..no you must have finesse with it...its kinda like how everyoen thinks they know how to detail cars becasue they THINK they know how to use a buffer and wax..in reality they have no idea about the small details that make things really work and they dont even really know what chemicals work well with different types of buffers...but just do research...i was in your boat a week ago and now i just said fuck it and got the tool and did it...now i couldnt be happier and my 19's are gonna look sick when they go on next week..

Ant
 

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ELITECUSTOMBODY
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Thanks Iced,I was typing same thing last night and it got wiped out,lol,the only other point I want to bring up is do it all one stroke, don't do small sections at a time,because you're risking the lip may come out wavy and uneven,it's better to do it from one edge of the wheelwell to other in one sweeping motion ,just gradually keep applying more pressure to the wheel without stopping in the middle,and DON'T FORGET TO HEAT THE FENDER while doing this,there is a big chance you can split the paint right on the corner edge of the fender if you don't apply some heat,hope that makes sense
 

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feeding your habit
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
well, it turned out there was a local guy selling his eastwood fender roller so I went over and got it. Tool was brand new and worth every I paid for it. Bolted it on, adjusted it, did 8 passes on each wheel (a pass takes like 40 seconds) and was done. no more rubbing. The rears had to go from horizontal to vertical. Used a heat gun and had no issues at all. The inside of the fenders feel like they came from the factory that way. This is a high quality tool - made for a body shop. I wasn't worried since my car is going in for paint, but it turned out perfect anyway.

So now i have this tool. If you want to rent it - I will rent it out for $50 for 5 days, you pay shipping both ways. It worked so well, I'm gonna roll my truck fenders just for shits and giggles!

I'll also sell it if you want it. $240 + shipping and its yours.
 

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ELITECUSTOMBODY
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:1poke: TOLD YOU, it's the best way to go, I'm about to roll quarters on a white 97 tt in few minutes ,belongs to another SF member
 

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feeding your habit
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
yes, I'll get them when my club na t thing slows down a little....
 
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