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2JZ yes shit
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1,012 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Last season I was on TT wheels with 245s and 275s in the back and possibly lowering springs (looks like stock springs but car rides about 1" lower than stock supra's I've seen.

Now I've got 18" SSRs, 18x9.5 front with 265/35/18 and 18x10.5 rears with 295/35/18s. As soon as I cruise over roughly 40mph, the car begins to fight you for the road. It will almost violently pull me into every dimple and bump on the road surface. I have to hold the wheel with both hands to keep it straight. As soon as speeds increase, it's even worse. The car just wants to follow the road and I have to forcefully bring the car back. I've never had the car do this before, and again, wheels are the only thing that's changed. Tire pressure is 35psi in all 4 tires.
I have some ideas on what could be causing this, but I don't want to bias anyone's opinions just yet.

If you guys can chime in, that would be very much appreciated.
 

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some tires are a lot more prone to "tramming" than others ...I think that's what it's called. It could also be alignment related, perhaps too much toe out in front, or worn bushings.

Your 18's are a tad wider than my 255/35F and 285/30R but mine never do that, very stable and no strange pulling at any speed. When I had Bridgestone SO3's in these sizes, it did it somewhat but not horrible.


PS: maybe a longshot but I also remembered: when I had worn rear wheel bearings it did such sudden directional changes under some conditions.
 

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feeding your habit
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put your car up on a lift. Grab each wheel and move it left to right and up and down (pivoting about the hub). ANY motion and you have a bad bearing. Then using a prybar apply pressure to the control arms in order to look for play in bushings and tie rods.

You have bad suspension or a very underinflated tire.
 

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6Spd TT Aerotop
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I'd be thinking either a wheel bearing or worn bushings as said above.

Check it out yourself as said above if you can, or get it to a suspension shop asap to be checked out.

Dan.
 

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479 Posts
Adam,
Bearings are very common on cars of this age. I have 2 MKIV's in the shop for wheel bearings right now actually. Also, control arm ball joints often allow the car to steer itself according to road grooves caused by the heavy load trucks compressing the asphalt. Out around Pickering this was so pronounced a few years back, there were ruts nearly 3 inches deep in the tracks and ALL cars had the problems you described. The wider tires you have now are exascerbating the problem as well.

Pull the wheels and see how smoothly the spindles spin - they should have some resistance to rotation, not super easy to spin. Check for play there, then in the control arm joints. Once the hubs are off for bearings, the BJ's can be torque tested - must be between 9-30 inch/lbs of torque to rotate the joint. If less, time for new CA's.....
 

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EchoDeDupra
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4,122 Posts
sounds like a bad wheel bearing
 

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Fast Enough, Never Is.
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920 Posts
My car used to track into the groves in the road real bad, but I never had to fight it or force it on the road, but still it wasn't comfortable. I put a set of TRD sway bars on my car along with Tein S Tech springs and that fixed the problem.
 

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V8SLAYR
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491 Posts
is a bad wheel bearing and shocks too
 

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GO 'Cats!
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1,001 Posts
Mine was similar to what you describe...almost as if I let go of the wheel I would wreck off the road particularly at low speed (less than 45 mph). A good alignment fixed my issue. It may or may not help you. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
 
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you can also hear a noise from the wheel bearings. but yeah as mentioned above is the way to check it.
 

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2JZ yes shit
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Discussion Starter #11
Update - problem solved!


I feel like an idiot though, lol.
Turns out when I put the front wheels on in the freezing cold garage winter, the air compressor didn't have enough juice and I undertorqued one of the wheels. I re-torqued both wheels now and the car drives smooth as a baby. You can steer it with one finger.
While I was doing this I checked the balljoints and wheel bearings, and they were all rock solid. Only thing I found was the passenger rear had about 1mm of play up and down, so I'm not sure if that's enough to warrant the replacement of the bearing.
But yeah, I'm an idiot, but luckily the problem is solved ;)
 

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2JZ yes shit
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Discussion Starter #14
This is exactly why I will never allow an impact to perform the final tightening of my wheels!
Agreed, I've been meaning to get a torque-wrench for the longest time and I think this is a perfect time to do so.
 

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^^I've been having the same problem as you did but I check everything but my car still jerks on the road. i'm completely stock.
 

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Last stock TT on Earth
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Agreed, I've been meaning to get a torque-wrench for the longest time and I think this is a perfect time to do so.
If you don't feel like throwin some cash down for the wrench you can always borrow one from autozone, etc. They might not be perfectly accurate but at least you're not going to damage your rim.
 

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2JZ yes shit
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Discussion Starter #17
If you don't feel like throwin some cash down for the wrench you can always borrow one from autozone, etc. They might not be perfectly accurate but at least you're not going to damage your rim.
It's not the cash, it's the time to go there, and usually when I go it's to pick up something else and I forget about the torque wrench.
 

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2JZ yes shit
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Discussion Starter #18
UPDATE

At around 70mph and on roads with truck grooves, the car is still quite unstable. Definitely not as bad as before, but there were a few spots where I had to fight the wheel to keep from changing lanes.
 
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