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It's on their website. +1 (866) 548-4472. Both cams are set using proper tools for crank and cam dial indicator from the cam card. The marks on the adjustable cam timing gear could change depending on how much you milled the surface of the head and the block, plus the gasket thickness. That's why I spent almost $400 on an engineering machine shop to build the jig so the proper angle was set for the cam dial indicator to be perfect.

Remember 0 degrees on your cam and valve lash are two different things.
 

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"Granite"
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Wish some one would do this for the GSC S2's?
Great write up! You never come through half assed, always quality work!
 

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I'll post both cam cars later when I'm at a computer "but it appears" there is only 1-2 degrees difference between the S1 and the S2.
 

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"Granite"
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I'll post both cam cars later when I'm at a computer "but it appears" there is only 1-2 degrees difference between the S1 and the S2.
Really? I would have thought more, how's the idle on the S2's after being degree'd? I actually like the lope on the S2's
 

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Once degree'd and if your use a modern after market ECU most of the lope is gone. I was disappointed because I am like you, I like the lope. But the tuner said the engine is running more efficient with the lope tuned out of it.
Ok its more like 1-4 degrees, I couldn't really see it on my phone screen, but you get the point by looking below. It also seems the S1 and S2 exhaust closing is quit different.
Here are both cam cards

S1

S2
 

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with my +4 +1.5 i didn't have lope at all..0/0 is lopey
well now i am confused about my tdc mark as i found the engine timing seems to be off.
i am now confused about the camgears tdc mark..is it the timing adjustment middle line or the dot on the gears..i tested my engine tdc on both marks and it is off..but now i need to know which is the right mark so i re adjust it again.
 

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engine timing is fixed now cams gears at +2 exhaust -2 intake..the engine response is very sharp and it just want to rev when i step on gas but idling sound weird like it's 5 cylinder(not usual cam sound)...anyone experienced similar thing ?
 

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Drive Hard
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a faster way to correctly degree your cams is to know the cam lift at tdc
here you don't need the degreening kit on crank
find and place engine at TDC
now set cam gear to reach the lift according to cam spec
that's all

For GSC stage 2 lift at TDC for intake is 0.070 and for exhaust is 0.035
 

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Does the Comp timing wheel work with the crank pulley installed as well? I'm looking to buy one that works instead of having to make one work.
 

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There are a ton of degree kits out there ... I don't have one yet, but am looking. Some notes :

Largest degree wheel you can find. 11" seems OK. 16" are great but stupid expensive.
Ones that use a magnetic base for the dial indicator should be avoided :p Won't work on 2JZ head.
Need rigid mounting for dial indicator. Actually a magnetic mount will work fine - just use one of the coilpack mounting brackets. Remove the 2 coilpacks, screw down the mounting bracket, and the magnetic base will cling to that nicely.

Any recommendations for a good kit ? I think main thing will be the dial indicator mounting scheme, ensuring that it can bolt into the head somehow.
 

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Toyota MasterTech
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Back when I degreed my cams, I used a comp cams kit...worked great ..







 

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Ah, I see - you used vice-grips to hold the dial indicator mount. Cool, nice and simple. I didn't think that would hold it solid enough ...

You have 3 bolts through the wheel - is it mounted solid to the pulley ? How were you able to turn the wheel independently to set the zero point ? I've been looking around for a 22mm bolt for use with a wheel - something with a 1/2" socket head in it and screw-thread/nut for holding the wheel. Like the more common Chevy-type ones. With the regular bolt tight enough to be able to turn the crank counter-clockwise, it seems like trying to loosen the bolt to reset the wheel would nudge the crank.

What Loctite are people using on their adjustable cam gear lock screws ?
 

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Toyota MasterTech
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Ah, I see - you used vice-grips to hold the dial indicator mount. Cool, nice and simple. I didn't think that would hold it solid enough ...

You have 3 bolts through the wheel - is it mounted solid to the pulley ? How were you able to turn the wheel independently to set the zero point ? I've been looking around for a 22mm bolt for use with a wheel - something with a 1/2" socket head in it and screw-thread/nut for holding the wheel. Like the more common Chevy-type ones. With the regular bolt tight enough to be able to turn the crank counter-clockwise, it seems like trying to loosen the bolt to reset the wheel would nudge the crank.

What Loctite are people using on their adjustable cam gear lock screws ?
The vice grip mount is a tool in itself made for this purpose. I bolted the wheel to my Titan /ati crank pulley. It bolted on identical to the Titan / ati pulleys degree marks. I did drill out the center of the wheel to fit the factory 22mm bolt through it...that way, I was able to use a 22mm ratchet to turn it all. As far as the zero point, I bent a coat hanger and used that bolt to anchor it to in the pic above.
 

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Cool, thanks for the info. I just realized that the coil-pack brackets are steel, so can mount one of those in place without the coil packs to give a nice stable footing for a magnetic mount for the dial indicator.
 

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Thought I would post up my experiences with degreeing a set of Kelford T202-C cams, the older 268/272 style (newer are 264/272 I think).

I ordered the following :

A SUM-G1056-16 degree kit from Summit - comes with an 11" wheel and a magnetic-base dial-indicator mount, the one with two arms and clamps. The dial indicator was slightly damaged I think - the needle was actually curved or bent, and it didn't return to zero. That is, depress the plunger, release and it returned to slightly past where it started from. Do that a few times and the error added up. Summit was great - they were about to just send out a whole new kit, but then the girl found the right dial-indicator and shipped it right out.

Degreeing cams 1.jpg

I also ordered a set of tips and extensions from Amazon. I had read about how tough it was to get the tip onto the bucket/shim, and this seemed like a cheap easy way to master that. The extensions are needed to let everything clear the cams/caps/etc - I can't believe those damn things were $19 :(

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043F776I
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005951CNA

Degreeing cams 2.jpg

I used a coil-pack bracket as a mount for the magnetic base. It works pretty well, not rock solid, but good enough. It needed one extension and the bent-tip. You may also need a tiny washer to get the tip to tighten into the right orientation. Here's how the setup looks.

Degreeing cams 3.jpg Degreeing cams 4.jpg Degreeing cams 5.jpg

I used the piston-stop method to find true TDC, and was almost exactly on right off the bat. The wheel showed +20deg and -19deg when the piston hit the stop, so just a tiny nudge of the pointer wire.

This is when we discover that that particular mount is really not very good. With everything in place, the dial-indicator with some pre-load and the rim set to zero, all it took was a tap or so to move the needle. Turning the rim to set the zero would move the needle. So it's a bit of a faf getting it set up - turning rim, tapping and tapping, tweaking, tapping, tapping. Finally it settled into a single point on the zero. I wonder if the snake-like mount is any better - you definitely want something as rigid as possible.

At 1mm/0.039" lift the intake was at 3deg and needed to be at 6deg per the Kelford card. So I rotated the crank a couple of times, finally stopping on 6deg, loosened the Titan V2 gear lock-nuts, and tapped the cam over till the dial read 0.039". Locked the nuts down, then rotated the crank a couple of times and checked. It was off by 1deg. Rinse/repeat, and it was dead-nuts on. You can't see the dial face in this shot - a bit washed out, and the wheel is a tad past 6deg to check.

Degreeing cams 6.jpg

The exhaust cam was a bit worse - came in at 45deg BBDC, when it's supposed to be 52deg BBDC. Same deal, took 2 tries to get it exactly right.

I just talked to Titan to get the correct torque settings for the lock nuts on the V2 cam gears. 40-45 INCH/lbs. Now to loosen each nut one by one, a drop of blue loctite, and torque them down. Then on to buttoning up the rest ...

In retrospect, it's probably better to piece a kit together yourself. Get an 11" wheel - any one will do. A better quality dial-indicator. And figure out which mount is the most rigid. But then you don't get the handy-dandy case ...
 

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Would degreeing the intake cam on a VVTi motor be different to set or is it kind of one of those "set it and forget it" things where you just drop it in and call it a day? I'm assuming so based on the cam card provided by GSC as an example.

 

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From what I understand it's a drop it in and forget it. Since the ecu changes the timing/degrees on the fly, the exact position isn't that important.
 

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Bumping this. I’m going to be adding a adjustable cam gear on the exhaust side of my vvti motor with s1 cams. Looking for a smooth and lower idle. I don’t plan on using a degree wheel but would like to use t6rocket’s approach and watch the idle vac.

Besides idle vacuum is there any other indication that I’m going in the right direction?
 
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