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Now in most cases when people replace windshields, the metal trim is never salvageable. Things like the coating on the seal cracks or brakes off and flakes from how dry it is. The metal trim itself gets dented from removal sometimes. But in all cases people would break at least one plastic clip. This stuff aint cheap. I paid $50-$60 for the plastic clips alone from Toyota. They are 3 diffrent kinds of clips I think. I have no idea how much the trim costs but I could only imagine. I know that the windshield without shade was $780 just the glass. So this universal seal idea saves you from going to the parts desk at Toyota and walking away like a broke homeless retard when you hear there price.
My situation, the paint guy broke most of my clips while removal because they were so old and dry. Not to mention the trim itself was all bent to $hit! Only after buying all the clips that I have seen the trim. I was pist. So I got a glass guy to instal a new windshield because mine was cracked out. He mentioned about a universal seal that I can use but he never brought one after. Never called back or showed up that @$$hole. So this process was days after installing a new windshield. Me and my brother did this and it was easy for a rook.
Note:
- Universal seal can be purchessed at a local windshield shop. Only some of them has even heared of a universal seal. Some dont carry them in stock, some do. They have diffrent size seals in most cases for those that has em. Get a sample of each size to bring to your car and check to make sure that they overlap each the glass and metal frame around the glass while covering the full gap all around the windshield. Get about 9 and a half feet of the proper one. They come in coils so the rubber seal will be loopie and twisted. A heat gun can be used to replax the rubber on a flat surface when layed out.
- Urethane adhesive should be available at those same shops about $7-$10 a pop. One will be more then enough to do this job. But make sure you get urethane that wouldnt require activator unless you purchess the activator aswell. U-428 Plus was my choice they say its one of the best qualitys.
- This job can be done even days/years after a new windshield job or durring a new one.
-Windshield has to be in the right spot in the frame or else the seal might have a hard time sqeezing within the narrow gaps in some spots around the glass or it may not fit at all.
-While doing anything with the windsield or any glass/sealing roll the windows down so that the pressure from you slamming the door wont cause the windshield to pop out of place or to create a future leak.
- DO NOT apply any pressure to the edge of the glass with a knife because it will crack very easy.
-Use only paint tape or body tape because all others will cling to your paint and windshield harder then your first girlfriend/boyfriend did and possibly ruin your paint!
Tools:
- 1 tube of Urethane adhesive
- 9 1/2 feet of universal seal of the proper with
- exacto knife, hook knife or razor blade
- paint tape or body tape only
- heat gun
- someone to help you out
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^My brother broke the cone so we taped it haha. It worked!!
Step 1
After removing the old trim, clean the gap all around your windshield. Test fit your seal by placing the whole strip all the way around the glass. There is two diffrent ways of applying your seal so pick and choose the best that will cover the whole gap. Inspect on witch areas of the gap the seal has a harder time sitting in. Excess urathane from previous work may be built around the windshield in the frame witch is normal. Cut a path in the excess urathane that is blocking your seal from settling in at its proper place.
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Step 2
Clean up the loose bits of urathane out of the gap and test fit your seal once again. Double check to see if it can sit flat all the way around the gap. Now take your heat gun and on low heat, heat up the rubber seal to relax it to shape. This will help you later when you lay the glue down. Its only going to make it a little easier its not mandatory.
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Step 3
After final inspections and double checks, lay that glue down. Nice thick consistent beed all the way around but dont overflow the gap. You dont want the glue to overflow while applying the seal when you press it down. This stuff will ruin your paint so keep it off the paint as fast as possible. Once you see the seal and how deep the gap is, your going to know how much beed to lay down enough for the seal to get stuck into.
Step 4
Apply the seal all the way around but dont push the seal all the way into the adhesive yet. Get the seal to only sit in the urathane around the windshield first before actually pushing it all the way in. Now when you do push it all the way in, do it evenally. This method will help eliminate the chance of overflowing adhesive all over your paint and make a mess.
Step 5
Make sure that the seal overlaps each the glass and the metal roof & pillars flat evenally. Also make sure that its as straight as possible for a better finish. After multiple inspections tape each sides of the seal to the glass and metal as tight a possible.
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Step 6
They say it takes an hour for urathane to dry. So they also told me to let it sit for two hours for good mesure. I let me car sit over night. I have heard about storys that urathane drys up almost immediately on hot days. Anyways step six you take the tape off and you inspect your work and you do your own thing from there.
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My situation, the paint guy broke most of my clips while removal because they were so old and dry. Not to mention the trim itself was all bent to $hit! Only after buying all the clips that I have seen the trim. I was pist. So I got a glass guy to instal a new windshield because mine was cracked out. He mentioned about a universal seal that I can use but he never brought one after. Never called back or showed up that @$$hole. So this process was days after installing a new windshield. Me and my brother did this and it was easy for a rook.
Note:
- Universal seal can be purchessed at a local windshield shop. Only some of them has even heared of a universal seal. Some dont carry them in stock, some do. They have diffrent size seals in most cases for those that has em. Get a sample of each size to bring to your car and check to make sure that they overlap each the glass and metal frame around the glass while covering the full gap all around the windshield. Get about 9 and a half feet of the proper one. They come in coils so the rubber seal will be loopie and twisted. A heat gun can be used to replax the rubber on a flat surface when layed out.
- Urethane adhesive should be available at those same shops about $7-$10 a pop. One will be more then enough to do this job. But make sure you get urethane that wouldnt require activator unless you purchess the activator aswell. U-428 Plus was my choice they say its one of the best qualitys.
- This job can be done even days/years after a new windshield job or durring a new one.
-Windshield has to be in the right spot in the frame or else the seal might have a hard time sqeezing within the narrow gaps in some spots around the glass or it may not fit at all.
-While doing anything with the windsield or any glass/sealing roll the windows down so that the pressure from you slamming the door wont cause the windshield to pop out of place or to create a future leak.
- DO NOT apply any pressure to the edge of the glass with a knife because it will crack very easy.
-Use only paint tape or body tape because all others will cling to your paint and windshield harder then your first girlfriend/boyfriend did and possibly ruin your paint!
Tools:
- 1 tube of Urethane adhesive
- 9 1/2 feet of universal seal of the proper with
- exacto knife, hook knife or razor blade
- paint tape or body tape only
- heat gun
- someone to help you out
^My brother broke the cone so we taped it haha. It worked!!
Step 1
After removing the old trim, clean the gap all around your windshield. Test fit your seal by placing the whole strip all the way around the glass. There is two diffrent ways of applying your seal so pick and choose the best that will cover the whole gap. Inspect on witch areas of the gap the seal has a harder time sitting in. Excess urathane from previous work may be built around the windshield in the frame witch is normal. Cut a path in the excess urathane that is blocking your seal from settling in at its proper place.
Step 2
Clean up the loose bits of urathane out of the gap and test fit your seal once again. Double check to see if it can sit flat all the way around the gap. Now take your heat gun and on low heat, heat up the rubber seal to relax it to shape. This will help you later when you lay the glue down. Its only going to make it a little easier its not mandatory.
Step 3
After final inspections and double checks, lay that glue down. Nice thick consistent beed all the way around but dont overflow the gap. You dont want the glue to overflow while applying the seal when you press it down. This stuff will ruin your paint so keep it off the paint as fast as possible. Once you see the seal and how deep the gap is, your going to know how much beed to lay down enough for the seal to get stuck into.
Step 4
Apply the seal all the way around but dont push the seal all the way into the adhesive yet. Get the seal to only sit in the urathane around the windshield first before actually pushing it all the way in. Now when you do push it all the way in, do it evenally. This method will help eliminate the chance of overflowing adhesive all over your paint and make a mess.
Step 5
Make sure that the seal overlaps each the glass and the metal roof & pillars flat evenally. Also make sure that its as straight as possible for a better finish. After multiple inspections tape each sides of the seal to the glass and metal as tight a possible.
Step 6
They say it takes an hour for urathane to dry. So they also told me to let it sit for two hours for good mesure. I let me car sit over night. I have heard about storys that urathane drys up almost immediately on hot days. Anyways step six you take the tape off and you inspect your work and you do your own thing from there.
