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· Inline for the win
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When inspecting a stock flywheel, how can you immediatly tell its bad besides the burn or gouging marks in the flywheels?

What ultimately decides if the internal rubber part is bad or not?

Should there be any movement in the center section?
 

· Old School
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There is no rubber, only springs.

To test it you install two bolts opposite each other on the flywheel, then use the bolts to turn the FW as far as it will go clockwise. Mark the two parts of the flywheel at this point.

Then turn it as far as you can CCW, and make a second mark.

Measure the distance between the two marks, it should be less than 4.134" per the manual, which also says to repeat this 4 times.

I'd say if you have a substantial amount of miles (over 25K) on it, just replace it.

I have a spare with only 11k on it that passed the above test with very minimal movement, less then 2" if I recall.
 

· Inline for the win
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the clarification.

I have one flywheel that I am pulling out of my car since the damn clutch is slipping again. It only has 14k miles and the other only has 10k. I check the 10k and the movement is just under 1" in either direction(for a total just under 2").

I don't know if I want to either resurface these or just put another new one in the car.
 

· Old School
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I hear you, it's a lot of work to change the clutch. That said, I think I'd take a chance on a low miles flywheel. South Bend Clutch will do a proper job of dry turning one for like $30.00, plus shipping.

If it isn't badly grooved (like from a metal 6 puck disc) I bet it would work fine.
 

· Inline for the win
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Lagtime,

Both clutch setups were used with stock toyota discs but just upgraded PP. 10k miles was with ACT PP and the 14k was with RPS blue PP. No grooves except the usual burn marks that occur.

I hope my RPS is still in good condition just to add the 6-puck disc to it.


DP
 

· Old School
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South Bend (and I think RPS also) can rebuild your pressure plate, might be an option if you have a spare sitting around.

I've had a stock clutch, RPS Blue w/stock disc (AKA TRD single disc), RPS blue w/6 puck and finally a SBC kevlar.

I like the SBC best, followed by the RPS blue w/stock disc.

I didn't like the 6 puck. I welded it to the flywheel & PP my second pass at the strip after a ~500 mile break-in, but I installed the 6 puck on a used FW that I didn't have surfaced, and a used RPS blue, so I don't think it ever seated correctly. Only the outer 3/8" of the pucks made full contact. I might have liked it a lot better if I'd used new or resurfaced parts.
 
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