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Discussion Starter #1
I've read through MKIV.com's downpipe installation section already, and it looks pretty easy. I sprayed down the nuts with WD-40 real good a little while ago.

Any other advice? How long should it take if everything goes well?

Thanks
-steve
 

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Just make sure you get the socket on squarely. If not, you will strip the bolt. I just had to take my dp on and off a couple times.....is not that difficult. Get some extensions and a wobble and you will be fine. Also, makes it ALOT easier if you jack the car up reasonably high (ramps will also work).
 

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I'm doing my downpipe soon. I saved these two posts:

Do not skimp on tools for this job!!! The trick is to use a deep-well 6-sided 14mm 1/2"-drive impact socket, a 1/2"-drive wobbly extension, a 2' breaker bar, and some PB Blaster (not in that order, of course). Do this job by hand (not under any circumstances with an impact wrench!).
1) Get a very, very bright light on the nuts (you need 100% clear view of them). Now soak the nuts with PB blaster, and wait 1 hour. (Get PB Blaster at your local auto store. WD -40 won't work.
2) Use the wobble in the wobbly extension to get that 14mm socket dead-perfect-square on the nut, with as direct a line as possible on the extension to the breaker bar. Do not turn the breaker bar yet (read step 2a first).
2a) If the nut is very, very badly rusted to where the 14mm socket is loose on the nut, go no further! Remove the 14mm, and pound a 13mm deepwell 6-sided 1/2"-drive impact socket onto the nut (with a big hammer, extension, and whatever else you need). Again, this 13mm socket must be pounded on before you even try to loosen the nut (even just for fun - a very rusted downpipe nut will not come off with a 14mm socket). Pound the 13mm socket on until it is completely over the nut.
3) Apply a smooth, steadily increasing force on the breaker bar - use a pipe if necessary......while watching the socket like a hawk to ensure the socket doesn't move off dead-perfect square on the nut.

This process sounds like a real f'in pain in the @ss, but it's about 100 times easier than dremmelling and torching with no space to work. Guys, trust me. With the right tools, 99.9% of the time this job can be accomplished 1-2-3.
If you do hit that unlucky .1%, dig out the dremmel, torch, chisel, hammer, band-aids, and little elfs to work in that [email protected] space. Seriously though, follow the process above religiously and let me know if it doesn't work...for what it's worth, I sincerely doubt I'll be getting any messages.

__________________
Phil '94F-T51R/E6K
"Displacement is no replacement for technology."


Phil is absolutely correct. It is all about the TOOLS. Here is a list off the top of my head of what we used to take of my DP:

1/2" drive 14mm 6-point deep well socket
1/2" drive u-joint/swivel
1/2" drive 18" breaker bar
1/2" drive 12" extension
1/2" drive 6" extension
1/2" drive 3" extension (2)
1/2" drive ratchet
1" ID steel pipe about 2' in length

It really helps to have a friend help you keep the socket in place while you put steady force on the breaker bar [and pipe]. Again, good lighting is priceless, invest in a drop light if you don't already have one. I soaked the nuts in Liquid Wrench (didn't know about PB Blaster until now) and luckily the nuts were in good shape and not rusty at all. Wear your safety goggles . . . there is a lot of crap that can fall into your eyes working in that area. It took us all of 1 hr and 40 mins to take the stock DP off and replace it with the aftermarket one. When you replace the nuts, put on a little anti-seize to make removal easier next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for all the info. I got it off no problem.

I had to order a new rear oxygen sensor :( Someone had made a test-pipe to replace the main cat, but they welded the o2 sensor in it :mad: There goes another $139.

BTW, anyone interested in a test-pipe with the o2 sensor ? :D

Thanks for all the advice.
-Steve
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Almost forgot...

While I'm underneath the car would it be a wise idea to change the fuel filter, and do the TCC mod?

-Steve
 
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Discussion Starter #7
do the ettc mod.. much better that way...
you can quite down the exhaust tone if 50 rolls by...

i like the lowend torque of sequential while driving on the streets.. and ttc on the freeway
 
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