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One of my mk3's had awesome windows and doors. It had low mileage and had sat for years preserving the window and door seals. My current mk3, however, has 340k hard used miles and the windows and doors were showing it. I recently spent some time diving in and improving some minor things that have made a big difference. Oh, and I spent less than $20 per door.

One thing I didn't mention in the video or write-up below is that refreshing the pads and moving them in towards the window has made the window travel much more smooth once everything is reassembled. It no longer lurches when you initially roll up or down.



Mk3 Supra doors can be hit or miss. About half I've encountered have been great. The other half have been worn out, loud, rattling metal boxes of cheapness. If your door sounds a little off when closed or if your windows seem to move a little too much, this write-up is for you. Thankfully a lot can be improved at little or no cost. You just need to dive in to see what needs to be done.

02Door Panel Removal

To remove the door panel there are 10 screws and a few snaps. 2 screws are at the front of the door underneath plastic caps. 2 screws are in the pull handle underneath plastic filler plugs. These plugs in the pull handle can be VERY tough to remove without marring the plastic. Use care and experiment with some different hand tools. I've found I need to use a screwdriver to pop off the plugs here because you just need a LOT of pulling force to get them out. There is another screw in the handle area where you lift to get out of the car. There are 5 screws on the very bottom of the door. You need to remove the lock bezel as well. With these items removed the door can be carefully pried off. If you have trim removal tools, now is the time to use them. Feel around for the snaps and apply careful pressure right there. If you don't have tools you can use your hands, just be cautious. Once the door panel comes free you need to unplug the electrical connectors for the window and courtesy light.


Here's the exciting part - as exciting as this gets as least. Take a careful look around. First thing I'd check is the health of your pads. There are 4 pads - 2 in the inside of the glass, 2 on the outside. These pads should be very soft and cushy. If they are hard or don't look like pads at all, this is a part of your problem. Thankfully these pads seem to be very robust and a simple cleaning with dish soap and a nylon brush will likely make them like new again. The inner pads can be removed easily. The outer pads are a part of the outer trim so you need to remove that. Again, thankfully the outer trim comes off easily.

Finally, check the regulator. You can see some of this in situ. If you don't see any obvious flaws or broken pieces with excessive play you'll have to continue down this guide and remove the glass and regulator to take a better look.

04Rear View Mirror Removal

There are 3 screw behind a little triangle plastic cover on the inside of the mirror. Pry off the cover and remove the screws. Hang on to the mirror so it doesn't fall when you get the last screw out. Unplug the electrical connector. Now you need to remove the mirror bracket. The bracket has two obvious screws at the bottom of the triangle area. The last fastener is a nut a little lower on the door. This bracket is commonly worn out and can cause a lot of wind noise. You can replace them for a little more than $100 per side as of 2015. You may be able to repair them by using a quick tip documented here :LINK:

05Window Removal

Alright, now we're really getting down to business. You need to remove the stoppers that keep the window from rolling itself right out of the door. There are two stoppers. One in the front, one in the back. You also need to remove the inner stabilizer. This is a roller located in the front of the door. If my memory is correct you need to remove the speaker box to get to this. Now remove the two glass mounting nuts. The window needs to be nearly down all the way to do this. The rear nut is pretty obvious. The front nut is hidden until you have the window up just the right amount and it is visible through the service hole. At this point the glass isn't held in place by anything more than gravity. Carefully pull it out, trying not to scratch your glass.

06Regulator/Motor Removal and Greasing

Disconnect the motor connector from the door. Remove the equalizer arm bolts. Remove the regulator mounting bolts (tip: you can leave the one bolt on the regulator that has the hole with the slot in it. this is really handy when reinstalling the regulator. The regulator should be free now. Remove it!

07Trim Removal and Cleaning

The interior trim supports (soft pads) needed to come out to get the glass out. The exterior might still be on the car. If you need to remove the exterior, it's quick and easy. There are two screws. The rear is covered by the weather-stripping which has a nearby screw you can quickly remove. After you've removed both screws the trim just pulls up. If you break any clips, replace them. If not, you're in great shape! To clean all the pads just use some dish soap and a nylon brush. It may take some scrubbing, but you should get them back to a fresh, fluffy pad in no time.

08Vibration Investigation

This is a bit of an art form at times. Use your ears and bang around on the door panels. You should find a few things contributing to the noises inside the door. For me it was the lock switch (unfixable as far as I can see), plastic bushings holding the lock and door handle rods and the general door structure. The plastic bushings might be fixable with some careful padding and taping the rods where they meet plastic. I chose to focus on the door panels themselves because that seemed to be the worst contributor for me. There are a few larger areas of the door that are flat and accessible. I used a few sheets of Dynamat approximately 3"x5" on the outer skin and bracing section inside the door. It helped a ton. The door sounds much more solid.


This is all pretty much the same as removal, just in reverse. A couple tips:

Grease the regulator and other moving surfaces. This helps get rid of some stickiness and ensures everything runs smoothly.
Grease the exterior handle while you have the door apart. My handle feels brand new now. I didn't even realize it was off before, but it's much better after some grease.
Thread a screw into the regulator in the location where the door has the slotted hole before you put the regulator in the door. This way you can locate it quickly and hang the regulator on that bolt.
Check the window movement along each step. You don't want to get it all back assembled and then realize something's not right.

10Sound Deadening

This is optional, but created perhaps the biggest improvement for me, aside from softening up the pads. The door has a lot of resonance. The metal is rather flimsy and light gauge. This is fine for weight savings, but it can make the door sound cheap and hallow. Do you want a nice thud when you close the door? Dynamat can help. I used one sheet from a speaker kit - that's around $8 worth of material per door. I'd use this every time I open up a MK3 door in the future because the results were great for me. I put two pieces in the most accessible areas of the outer most panels. It made a huge difference in the sound of the door closing.
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