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Discussion Starter #1
The automatic transmission has shifted so roughly for so long that I am now getting the infamous clunk in the rear when the gears change...I seem to remember reading posts from years ago that discouraged changing out the
joints and replacing the driveshaft as a whole instead...

As I recall, there was an issue with vibration when the joints were replaced. Seems the shaft is precisely balanced or something like that...

Am I dreaming or did I really read that? And, is is true?

Finally, who has a rear driveshaft? I found one in the jy but it is a manual
tranny and I believe the shafts are different?
 

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Can't say I recall reading about anyone having problems with having the joints replaced recently.... although there is always the possibility. It's really just more of a matter of how good of a shop you take it to.

Yes, tha manual and auto have different driveshafts, but I believe the rear half is the same. Most folks who've dealt with the DS lately, it seems, have been favoring aluminum one piece shafts.
 

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just get a one piece steel one made, from a reputable shop. the guy i went to fabricated the whole thing and tested it very thoroughly. no vibration whatsoever
 

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NorCal Haters Club
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1 piece driveshaft are usually cheaper than rebuilding the stock one due to the over priced center carrier bearing. You can get a steel or an aluminum.
 

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in my opinion your better off getting one made then buying one online, just because its about the same price, and they will be installing it for you, and plus if you there is any problems you could just go back to them.
 

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Most shops that make the driveline will sell it to you over the counter. Easy to install and if they are a reputable shop it would not matter if you have a problem, they will take care of it. Most important: always research the place you are going to do business with. Little bit of time ensures less hassle in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
there's a source on ebay advertising the one piece driveshaft, aluminum, but they want like $400...a little stiff for my blood...
 

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i paid 320 for mine. the put my car on a lift, took off my old one, fabricated a new 1 piece still and put in in for me.
 

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a_zepeda9236 said:
i paid 320 for mine. the put my car on a lift, took off my old one, fabricated a new 1 piece still and put in in for me.
Most likely used your old slip yoke and differential flange instead of upgrading to 1310 series ujoints. That's how the price was so cheap.
 

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i dont think so, he gave me my old driveshaft. everything was new, from end to end. its steel not aluminum also, keep that in mind. ther was no re-using of anything. and there is no poit in upgrading into some crazy unnecessary u-joints when im n/a.
 

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a_zepeda9236 said:
i dont think so, he gave me my old driveshaft. everything was new, from end to end. its steel not aluminum also, keep that in mind. ther was no re-using of anything. and there is no poit in upgrading into some crazy unnecessary u-joints when im n/a.
Steel makes total sense for the price.
 

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Exaclty. All i know is the guy told me this could handle up to 350 torque at least, which i think may be low balling it, but im not sure. However, that is more torque than i will ever accomplish out of my n/a, so im not worried about it.
 
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