Supra Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Moderator, l337 M0d3r4t0r
Joined
·
12,246 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, I was being a tool and though I dind't need air to pull the springs and retainers off, except what I screwed up on was #6 was BDC and i forgot to move the piston up a bit so it didn't fall right in... Anyways long story short, I had to pull the head.....

Fund's are very tight as I just spent money on an AEM, 67DDB, Paint job, new trim for interior, recovering seats, and all sorts of other misc things that I've been replacing so I 've come to 3 conclusions.

A: drop the head back on don't touch or clean anything on the head (gasket / head seprated cleanly) and torque it back down. Lap the valves as well (since they have heavy carbon deposits)

B: Drop the head/block at the machinest, have him do a valve job and skim the head/new HG

C: Say F*CK it and get 3MM over valves, and replace HG.

A option is my favorit right now for money... B will cost almost at least 50-75% the cost of C.

Now, question is without a port and polish will 3MM over valves on a stock bottem end even be worth it? Or would you only recommned a port/polish and 3MM valves.

My setup I plan to run is a ITS67DDB/AEM all the fixings. I basically wanted to get about 500 dd power and 600 on meth and 700 balls out on race gas and possibly a little funny gas.

My bottem end is fully stock and on the head i have crower springs and crower cams.

Suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
My vote would be B: for what your plans are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,863 Posts
well if your not going to build the block later then i'd go with B also. but if you are going to build the block then i'd just put the head back on for now and worry about it then.
 

·
Supra Owner Since 1996
Joined
·
2,723 Posts
I pulled an A-class job once when I melted a piston and had to make it to SILV. Had the car up and running in less then 4 days with a used piston, new rings and new HG. Torqued it down with stock head studs and have been running it strong ever since. I don't think you can go oversized valves with stock pistons. They need to be domed, so C is out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
If you chose A, I would use a new head gasket as cheap insurance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,785 Posts
Id get a new headgasket and stick it back on until funds allow for porting, etc..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
What about head bolts? Stock = $150.00 and ARPs = $150.00
You can reuse the stock headbolts no problem. I know it's not recommended by the Service Manual, but they are fine IME. I reused mine once and the engine has been fine for about 10+K miles running a routine boost setting of 28-32+ PSI on a 74-mm turbo and supporting mods. I know of LOTS of other engines with similar results. If you keep things in decent state of tune and decent fuel, it's not going to be the head bolts that let go first on a stock-headed engine.
 

·
King Ding-a-ling!
Joined
·
3,195 Posts
According to the manual, if they are in spec then they can be reused. Most just seem to replace them for shits and grins! SO... I guess the poster should test them to see if they are still in spec.
 

·
TH400 Club
Joined
·
809 Posts
I dont think you can do 3mm over valves without more machine work, and I dont think it would net any gains worth while at this time

Machine head, new gasket, new studs (or reuse if low mileage and within spec)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,691 Posts
might as well get the ARP, they can be used over again, from what it sounds like you will eventually pull the head again so why not plan ahead
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top