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i just recently added some coolant to my greddy tank (came with 3 row intercooler), anyways, i drove my car around for a few days...came back...coolant all gone....i didnt even kno how it happened...but i kinda had an idea cuz my car was overheating...any idea on why its eating my coolant so fast, after just changing it a few days ago...is it the radiator? time to get a new one or what? thanks for any help.
 

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1whitebasupra said:
i just recently added some coolant to my greddy tank (came with 3 row intercooler), anyways, i drove my car around for a few days...came back...coolant all gone....i didnt even kno how it happened...but i kinda had an idea cuz my car was overheating...any idea on why its eating my coolant so fast, after just changing it a few days ago...is it the radiator? time to get a new one or what? thanks for any help.

Im having the same exact problem!

Im thinking it might be the water pump?

I had the mechanic check it the car and he put pressure on all of the lines and no leaks. Im pretty sure its not the headgasket.
 

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yea i mean...i experienced this sorta issue for awhile now...but never this intense...maybe its the summer weather?....really dunno, any help would gladly appreciated ...
 

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Did you recently flush the coolant? It can take a few days to get all the trapped air out. Obviously you'll want to look for any leaks.. maybe a hairline crack if you think it's the radiator? Another thing to cinsider might be changing your radiator hoses if they're really old. You can have tiny leaks that might not even be noticeable.
 

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superchrls said:
Did you recently flush the coolant? It can take a few days to get all the trapped air out. Obviously you'll want to look for any leaks.. maybe a hairline crack if you think it's the radiator? Another thing to cinsider might be changing your radiator hoses if they're really old. You can have tiny leaks that might not even be noticeable.

mine has been going on for a few weeks now. It just disappears. It doesnt drip out onto the garage floor. :dunno:
 

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same with me...no residue on the floor...it just like magically disappears....
 

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1whitebasupra said:
same with me...no residue on the floor...it just like magically disappears....

And/or escaping through a blown headgasket at a slow pace... ;)
 

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yup if its doing it at a slow pace but constant... it has a slight chance of it being a blown headgasket... mine did that ate up the coolant after few high speed runs.. but wasn't leaking nowhere... car ran fine nothing different... checked and 5&6 had the exact same low compression... then used a BLOCK tester.... confirmed... then pulled the head the thinnest part of the headgasket had a piece about 1/8 inch completely gone.... guess it was there about over a month because thats about how long it ate coolant.. good luck....
 

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Assuming you have the stock radiator, sometimes the cap fails and allows your coolant to escape as steam. The seal around the top of the radiator can fail as well. That's what happened to mine before I replaced it. You may not see anything under the car. After a close examination I could see a little bit of coolant residue around the top of the radiator. I have also heard it's not uncommon for the stock radiator to develop cracks. If you have an aftermarket radiator, there are several threads about what caused leaks after the install.
 

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SUPRASTITIOUS said:
Assuming you have the stock radiator, sometimes the cap fails and allows your coolant to escape as steam. The seal around the top of the radiator can fail as well. That's what happened to mine before I replaced it. You may not see anything under the car. After a close examination I could see a little bit of coolant residue around the top of the radiator. I have also heard it's not uncommon for the stock radiator to develop cracks. If you have an aftermarket radiator, there are several threads about what caused leaks after the install.

There is definitely some residue around my cap, but im not sure if its from the mechanic pouring it in.

What are the symptoms of a blown headgasket? I checked the oil and it wasnt a milkshake color.
 

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The Wilwood Brakes Dude
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2 easy tests

1. open radiator cap, (engine cold) reinstall, start car leave running, open cap right away, if you have pressure you have a BHG.

2. must have very accurate temp gauge. (and this depends on how "blown" it is) start with cold engine. watch temp gauge while it is getting to opperating temp. about the time it should be gettting warm the BHG will have creates an huge air bubble between it and the thermostat. the resulting steam (from the engine or a few cylinders, warming up with no coolant) will make the temp spike very high (very high = 235-250) right as it warms up. This can only be whitnessed for less than 10-15 seconds Then the thermostat will open and the temp will come back to normal. once the engine is opperating at proper temps you wont see another spike until you have lost a critical amount of coolant.

Some times factory gauges have a lag time programed into them so "we" as the customer dont bring it right back to the dealer for every little anomlie that is experienced.

Get out your wrenches or call you friend that knows what he is doing, consider it a learning experience. An opportunity to learn. I hope thats not "it" (BHG) for you but thats what it sounds like.

Keep us posted.
 

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2fiddyz said:
2 easy tests

1. open radiator cap, (engine cold) reinstall, start car leave running, open cap right away, if you have pressure you have a BHG.
What do you mean by having pressure? Can you elaborate more on that please. Thank you for the help.
 

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SUPRASTITIOUS said:
Assuming you have the stock radiator, sometimes the cap fails and allows your coolant to escape as steam. The seal around the top of the radiator can fail as well. That's what happened to mine before I replaced it. You may not see anything under the car. After a close examination I could see a little bit of coolant residue around the top of the radiator. I have also heard it's not uncommon for the stock radiator to develop cracks. If you have an aftermarket radiator, there are several threads about what caused leaks after the install.

A lot of people doesn't know that the radiator cap is also a thermostat if that goes bad, it usually overflow into your reserve tank...and then over flow the reserve tank...and that my friend is how you losing your fluid...(onless you find chocolate on your dip-stick)
 

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ok so today I did a lot of highway driving vs my normal city driving and my coolant level did not drop at all! I did do that test, started the car and opened the radiator cap. It started to overflow. My coolant did not drop one bit today, but when I drive around town it disappears.

:dunno:
 

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I have the same problem and found it to be the cap. Ill be driving and my temp gauge will bounce up high, then drop. I popped the hood and found my overflow completly full and dripping out the overflow overflow tube onto the street. I guess air was getting into the system through the cap and burping coolant out the overflow.
 

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The Wilwood Brakes Dude
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What do you mean by having pressure? Can you elaborate more on that please.

I dont know how to say it more simply.

I say start with a cold engine, so you and other people dont burn themselves and dont want to sue me for free advice. Feel free to do this on a hot motor too just dont sue me if YOU dont know how to do it on a hot motor without burning yourself. Thats the only reason I said start cold.

I ask you to open the cap to release/relieve any residual pressure.

I ask you to reinstall the cap because it wont make pressure without it.

BUT the function of initial startup is not what makes pressure in a perfectly good motor.

Pressure in a perfectly good running motor is created when the motor has been runnung long enough for the trapped volume of fluid to be heated and thus expand. You can open a hot motor and release the pressure with out loosing coolant but you must have a temp gauge accurate enough (Mechanical gauge) to know when the thermostat has opened. BUT DONT SUE ME WHEN YOU BURN YOURSELF, BECAUSE YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO DO THIS CORRECTLY. Just trying to CMA.

I have never seen ONE (not one) factory gauge that is accurate enough to witness this. Even aftermarket electrical temp gauges dont have the resolution to do this in my opinion. So for safety sake just do it on a COLD motor.

So if you crack the cap less than 10 seconds after you started it (on a system with no pressure in it to start with) that pressure could only come from the cylinder pressure escaping from the HG and pressurizing the coolant system. In 10 seconds or less (at idle) you havent generated enough temperature to increase the pressure.

You have a BHG RIGHT?!?!? I know... I was bummed too.

Good luck, LMK how it goes
 

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The Wilwood Brakes Dude
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I have the same problem and found it to be the cap. Ill be driving and my temp gauge will bounce up high, then drop. I popped the hood and found my overflow completly full and dripping out the overflow overflow tube onto the street. I guess air was getting into the system through the cap and burping coolant out the overflow.
How do you think coolants gets into the overflow? Its the cap, The cap dosent have a pump to transfer air for coolant!!! You have a BHG not a bad cap.

Looking at the overflow tank is a very poor way to tell how much coolant is in your system.

You should open the cap when its cold and fill it then.

These motors have a design flaw. 52ft/lbs of HG torque is redicilously low, My jeep is 115 ft/lbs, granted it has a cast iron head and block but still, its a straight 6.

Just put a MHG on it ARP studs and be on your way.

Good luck
 
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