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Supranian
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While changing my oil last night I was looking into some other leak issues I have and noticed that the exhaust gas control valve (on the downpipe adapter) was disconnected from the linkage. I could feel what seems to be a threaded hole on the valve itself but can't see how the linkage attaches to it.

Can anyone upload a pic of what the valve actually looks like out of the car with some pics of the linkage so I can see how it goes.

Also, what reason would one have for disconnecting this? I imagine since the car has an aftermarket 3" exhaust that the previous owner wanted little restriction, but I would hate for the valve to remain partially open or closed for that matter. Thanks in advance.
 

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Stock Twins King
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4,544 Posts
My website has all of these pictures. Under Tech, Your car must run like crap then. You'll never be able to get through transision with it closed, or.......... your in TTC if it is open. I'd imagine that this being the case. Someone else may have done a ghetto TTC job on it.
 

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Supranian
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Yes, it runs like crap.....What is your website???^^^

Ghetto job on entire car is an understatement....lol
 

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Supranian
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks Stu, I did find it by checking your profile. I was looking for a closeup of how the linkage is attached.
 

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Supranian
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How does the actuator connect to the EGCV???? Is the valve rod threaded???
 

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Stock Twins King
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Supranian
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As in the pic you attached (above) I have the TV360004 piece attached to the actuator. On the valve side of the EGCV there is a rod piece about 1/2" in diameter with a hole in the center that stickes out about 1/8" and that is it. I don't see how this flat piece attaches to it unless it is broken off.

On another note, how the [email protected]#$ does that EGCV come off. I can't seem to get to the top nut....:dunno:

Btw Stu....that is one awesome site you have with some of the best information I've seen yet, especially the info on the TTC conversion and your links. Thanks.
 

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Good luck with it.
From what I read, it seems you might have to go true twin now.
I have a perfectly functioning EGCV we just pulled off if you are
interested in it also.
 

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Stock Twins King
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4,544 Posts
As in the pic you attached (above) I have the TV360004 piece attached to the actuator. On the valve side of the EGCV there is a rod piece about 1/2" in diameter with a hole in the center that stickes out about 1/8" and that is it. I don't see how this flat piece attaches to it unless it is broken off.

On another note, how the [email protected]#$ does that EGCV come off. I can't seem to get to the top nut....:dunno:

Btw Stu....that is one awesome site you have with some of the best information I've seen yet, especially the info on the TTC conversion and your links. Thanks.

Pictures say a 1000 words they say~ Please post it because It doesnt make sense what your saying. What is that # you stated? TV360004?
 

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Supranian
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Pictures say a 1000 words they say~ Please post it because It doesnt make sense what your saying. What is that # you stated? TV360004?
Sorry...in the pic you posted there is a small piece attached to the actuator arm with that number on it. I listed that number as a reference. I will try and take a pic of mine.
 

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Stock Twins King
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OK, I found that PN. It is stamped on the lever that operates the internal flapper that controls the exhaust flow. If this is busted (which is common) your car will never run correctly. It isnt easy to fix. Requires removal of exhaust (DP) and the lower turbo section. There maybe away to tie it open (If not broken inside) and be permanent TTC


 

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Supranian
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
^^^ that's exactly what I was talking about. Thanks for following up. I've been trying to remove the EGCV to no avail due to the upper nut having no access to it. I have pretty much given up on removing that piece to repair it. I am now going to try and figure out if I locked it open if everything will be alright (somewhat) until I get the car smogged and inspected. I guess I am giving up on my trying to get the car COMPLETELY back to stock for now. I just want to get it running so I can drive it.

I have some pretty good pics to show the masses what I am talking about but photobucket.com is down right now for maintenance. I will upload the pics tomorrow.

Thanks so much Stu for your help.
 

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Supranian
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, here are the pics. It certainly seems that it is broken. I now have two options....lock it open somehow or replace it. Does anyone know what effect it would have if I locked it open but didn't do any of the other TTC mods? I really have to get the car smogged. Also, does anyone have any ideas for locking it open without permanently messing it up. I was thinking drilling a hole radially through the knob at the end and wiring it with piano wire or maybe even using a center punch to lock it open. Any other ideas?
Now for the pics.


 

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Chris
as per our PM conversation
you will need to do the rest of the TTC mod
take the DP off and break the porcelin sections of
the EGCV valve and leave the rod in the middle there
if not, you have will very very little boost pressure

if you want to take the EGCV off, its seems very diffucult
with the engine in the car

i will get you those pics tonight shortly
 

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Stock Twins King
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I was for sure bored tonight--lol! so I took these for you:






So what he is saying is to whack the ceramic flapper and bust it up, so all you will have left is the through rod/bolt. That bolt is what had the end that broke off and as you can see is unable to rotate the ceramic flapper open. So even if the broken part is loose and moves around after the ceramic flapper is gone, it wont matter cause there wont be anything there. I didnt see if you have a DP, but 3-bolts, and your there where you will see the pictures below.



GOOD Luck--------Now you just need to wire open the IACV,

Stu
 

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Supranian
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the info guys. I have read many articles on doing the TTC mod. I also understand that I can break the ceramic flapper. However, I don't want to do that at this point in reconstructing the car. I want to get the car back to stock. So I guess for now, I need to wire open the valve somehow. I am having an issue with #5 cylinder also so I may be pulling the engine anyway. I just don't want to permantly damage the flapper in case I am able to repair it later on, perhaps by welding or brazing the piece back on the valve stem. If I wire the valve open, would I still be able to use the rest of the stock sequential operation (albeit at some reduced capacity or operational characteristics) with no bad effects?
 

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Supranian
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I managed to get the last bolt out. Sure enough the tab was broken off. I just welded it back on, re-installed it and now I hope I'm good to go. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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Stock Twins King
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What tab are you referring too? Are you saying you welded the broken off part to the flapper rod ? Like your 1st picture above in your latest post shows the broken off part, you welded that? I always thought that metal was un weldable. I hope you got lined up properly if you did.

Stu
 

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Supranian
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2,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
What tab are you referring too? Are you saying you welded the broken off part to the flapper rod ? Like your 1st picture above in your latest post shows the broken off part, you welded that? I always thought that metal was un weldable. I hope you got lined up properly if you did.

Stu
Welded perfect (mig weld). To line it up correctly I opened the valve fully then installed the actuator, extended it (locked it in place with vice grips and rotated the tab piece until it hit the stop. Marked both sides removed everything and welded it.

I then tested it with air to make sure it extended correctly and the valve was open at that point.

ouila....finito !!!

I originally tried to drill it in three places and was going to put pins in it but the rod metal is pretty tough and I burned up all my tiny drills.
 
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