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I remember there being a thread on blocking the EGR or keeping it functional. I couldn't remember what the final thought on the subject was. I know you don't gain/lose any horsepower since the EGT is disabled during heavy throttle. From what I remember these were the issues, but I don't know which one is more considerable than the other:

Pros - needed to pass emissions, and helps keeps EGTs lower

Cons - dirties up the intake manifold

So, is it worth blocking the EGR? Thanks.
 

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on the negative, i live in NC they only do a obd2 heck. they hook some puter thing to the port. My egr elecrical is removed with a resistor in there and i passed just fine. Im guessing it would fail on the sniffer maybe. Good question though as i am still in the proess of removing mine as it looks like a mess behind the intake mani.
 

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If you want to do it right, I wouldn't simply block it. I would remove all the associated apparatus including the valve itself, saucer, VSV, etc. If you want to go one step further, I would also grind out the EGR passages within the intake plenum.

Remember that the JDM engine comes with none of the aforementioned.
 

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I've also heard it helps the #6 cylinder with heating issues.
 

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i looked at mine and it does look like some1 installed a block of plate but all the junk on top of the manifold is still there....i asume cuz of my boost gauge..i see some lines are connected to it......I would love to get rid of that junk.
 

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has anyone done this mod and had negative effects? On my 97 the temp sensor took a shit so I used a resistor to trick the ecu so i dont get a code. So im not even sure if the egr is being used anymore. Pluss that stuff back there looks like a mess. thanks
 

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has anyone done this mod and had negative effects? On my 97 the temp sensor took a shit so I used a resistor to trick the ecu so i dont get a code. So im not even sure if the egr is being used anymore. Pluss that stuff back there looks like a mess. thanks
Removing the EGR will lean out a car with stock management. You need to add fuel somehow or the car will ping.
 

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I had to put in a new wiring harness and the EGR pipe was very annoying. I would like to remove it for good :). I've been doing some research though and so far it appears that the EGR should stay?

From wikipedia:

EGR works by recirculating a portion of an engine's exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders. Intermixing the incoming air with recirculated exhaust gas dilutes the mix with inert gas, lowering the adiabatic flame temperature [...] The exhaust gas also increases the specific heat capacity of the mix lowering the peak combustion temperature.

From Smogcheck.ca.gov:

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System: The vehicle's Exhaust Gas Recirculation system reroutes exhaust gases back through the intake manifold to lower engine temperatures and, in so doing, reduces NOx emissions.

So it lowers temps not raises temps? If anyone knowledgeable in this area could chime in.. :)
 

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Here is info from Toyota on exactly what the EGR does. It will give you a good idea if you want to block it or not.

Note page 5.

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h61.pdf
Thanks - I found this very helpful. I always thought my old BPU car pulled timing way too easy - this makes me think maybe that was due to the EGR mod. I'm leaving it stock on my new car.

My memory is that when the EGR mod was started at mkiv.com years ago, it was based on just speculation that disabling it would lower temps in the #6 cylinder, but I don't recall any hard evidence that proved it did so.

When considering that JDM cars didn't have EGR, keep in mind they also are going to have different stock ECU A/F control to account for that
 

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People, if you don't know what the hell you are talking about, don't talk, ok. Removing the EGR does NOT help to decrease the cylinder temps!!! If you RTFA Supra-Holic posted, for example, you will find that the EGR was put in place to cool the engine cylinder to help reduce NOx emissions which stem from high combustion temperatures under certain conditions. It's one thing to remove the EGR on a full APU car where you have all the supporting mods, but blocking the EGR on BPU is stupid and gets you nothing execpt a car which emits more NOx than it did before and also the possibilty of damaging your engine.

But hey, if you want to spend $100 on a piece of sheet metal that will give you nothing, by all means...
 

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I understood it more as "getting rid of heating issues on #6"
Long time ago there was a kit that a company in japan offered to reroute the coolant at the rear of the engine to address heat related problems. Only saw it once or twice.
 

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I've had the EGR removed from my BPU Supra for years without any ill effects and my vehicle has dynoed 43Xwhp with no lean spots. A/F was 11:1 at upper RPMs. If anyone has any contrary evidence I would love to hear it, otherwise it's unsupported theory.
 

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I just did this mod this morning to m 97. Doin both plates took me less than an hour. Was an easy job. The trick for me was removing the vacuum booster, It takes less than 10mins to pull the its a direct shot to the egr stuff. Makes this a total cake job. There is one bolt hooked to a bar on the upper rt brake bolt. but its not that bad at all.
 

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its not an unsupported theory. Thats just flat out what egr does. its not necessarily going to damage your engine if you remove it but with a factory ecu, It will think it is activating the egr and change timing and fuel control accordingly. Egr gets you better fuel economy on the high way and unless its leaking under real high boost it cant hurt performance. it only activates at cruise speed. It recirculates un burnable (inert) gasses that yes are hot from just being burnt, but relatively cold compared to the 2000* in your combustion chamber and since they cant be burnt they just fill up the cylinder. technically it sort of makes your 3l a 2.5L by filling up the extra room thus you need less fuel for efficient combustion and then on top of that it makes it cooler since its not as much air and fuel. if your obd2 and just have to get rid your egr go do it. but all your doing is hurting fuel economy. and obd1 your going to screw yourself unless you have a 3 way cat, your not gonna pass. unless your traction control button breaks and cant be disabled then it could pass a 2 spd idle. but more so if you still have a cat and your considering doing this your sort of stupid in the first place.
 

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If you decide to remove it you should remove the egr cooler located on the back of the head when you get a chance. The #6 exhaust port feeds the egr and when you block off on the intake side you still have hot exhaust gases in the egr cooler. I use a 3/8npt tap and thread the port on the back of the head and then plug it. Basically your head is used as a heatsoak for the exhaust gases at the #6 cyl.


Mike
 
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