Since I don't have my EGR system anymore (Boost Logic block off plates) I took off the lines coming from the intake associated with the vacuum diagram (except for the vacuum line for the throttle body). Is that ok? The car ran much better when I capped the openings off from the intake. There was much more intake pressure and the car felt fuller. Is it okay to remove the pressure regulator and vacuum actuators from the vacuum diagram under the hood as well? They no longer seem to serve any purpose. I might as well take out the canister as well.
EGR Delete - Vaccum Actuator and Pressure Regulator Removal?
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rip it all out:bigthumb:
the only thing I had attached to my mani before I went fmic was the fuel pressure regulator, sensors(map/temp), boost gauge/controller, and brake booster...thats pretty much it, cant think if I missed anything, most of all the other crap is just emission stuff, capped off all the open vac ports and removed most of the hard vac lines that are EVERYWHERE...takes like 10 pounds off the car if you add it all up
with my fmic I have only 2 vac lines and 3 sensors total, nice and clean, I love it
the only thing I had attached to my mani before I went fmic was the fuel pressure regulator, sensors(map/temp), boost gauge/controller, and brake booster...thats pretty much it, cant think if I missed anything, most of all the other crap is just emission stuff, capped off all the open vac ports and removed most of the hard vac lines that are EVERYWHERE...takes like 10 pounds off the car if you add it all up
with my fmic I have only 2 vac lines and 3 sensors total, nice and clean, I love it
How do you remove the vacuum switching valves without tripping the CEL? I bypassed the one used in between the lines for the fuel regulator and the one right behind it. I can't believe I didn't just get rid of these lines and cap off the openings when I did the EGR blockoff. What a difference in throttle response! I basically had those EGR lines coming from the intake open so my intake was just leaking out everywhere.
Check out where I bypassed the switching valve before the fuel pressure regulator. Is that okay to do? I would imagine it's freeing up the flow of the air to the regulator and that the switching valve was only restricting it. How can I remove them and the brackets without causing the CEL? Do I need to remove the sensors from the harness or cut them out somehow and use a resistor? I put a green dot on them in the pic to show which ones I'm talking about. I couldn't find the line tool in CS3
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Check out where I bypassed the switching valve before the fuel pressure regulator. Is that okay to do? I would imagine it's freeing up the flow of the air to the regulator and that the switching valve was only restricting it. How can I remove them and the brackets without causing the CEL? Do I need to remove the sensors from the harness or cut them out somehow and use a resistor? I put a green dot on them in the pic to show which ones I'm talking about. I couldn't find the line tool in CS3
I wonder what the vacuum switching valves are doing since there is no pressure running through them now from the lines? They aren't functional anymore. Should I put the VSV back on for the FPR or leave it bypassed? Car seems to be running great with it bypassed and I have seen others bypass it as well.
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I have AEM so I have no concern for tripping the CEL...doesnt make sense that the valves would trip it since they are not actually sending any feedback...pull the plugs on em and see if it comes on...if not get rid of em altogether...theres like 3-4 of them if I remember correctly, 1 extra if its a Cali car.
the sensor that was on the EGR is supposed to trip the light aparently, ive heard of people putting a resistor in place of it to prevent it
while ur at it (if you haven't already) you can get rid of the vac canister thats under the mani...theres a couple VSVs down there too
the amount of useless emissions crap you can take off this car could almost fill a 5 gallon bucket
the sensor that was on the EGR is supposed to trip the light aparently, ive heard of people putting a resistor in place of it to prevent it
while ur at it (if you haven't already) you can get rid of the vac canister thats under the mani...theres a couple VSVs down there too
the amount of useless emissions crap you can take off this car could almost fill a 5 gallon bucket
Any suggestions from anyone who has theirs bypassed? What does it do? I currently don't have it bypassed but am wondering if I should go back to having it bypassed.
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I'd leave it off, all it does is raise fuel pressure slightly on cold startup. IMO its just one more thing that has the potential to fail at some point.
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couldnt have said it better myself
cool i bypassed it and the car is running great. thanks for your help!
also, how do i remove the vacuum tank on the driver's side of the motor by the oil filter? it looks hard to get to. do i need to lift the motor at all? i am in the process of ripping out all of the vacuum system as it clutters the hell out of the bay.
are there any other vacuum lines i can get rid of? i've capped off pretty much everything on the manifold that needed capping.
also, how do i remove the VSV sensors from the harness? they are just taking up room and I'd like to just remove them completely. i pulled the sensor but it threw a CEL so I just had to plug them back in and let them be.
does anyone know where to get a JDM throttle body for the NA? they don't have all the vacuum sources and look a little cleaner.
also, how do i remove the vacuum tank on the driver's side of the motor by the oil filter? it looks hard to get to. do i need to lift the motor at all? i am in the process of ripping out all of the vacuum system as it clutters the hell out of the bay.
are there any other vacuum lines i can get rid of? i've capped off pretty much everything on the manifold that needed capping.
also, how do i remove the VSV sensors from the harness? they are just taking up room and I'd like to just remove them completely. i pulled the sensor but it threw a CEL so I just had to plug them back in and let them be.
does anyone know where to get a JDM throttle body for the NA? they don't have all the vacuum sources and look a little cleaner.
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i took the vac can out with the manifold off...it would probly be pretty hard to get it off with the mani on...
i took out the vacuum canister but noticed that the actuator in the intake manifold should be running to it. i just ran a line from the actuator to the top right vacuum feed on the manifold (where it was going from the vac can) so I basically bypassed the vac can. Is that bad, since now there is no VSV to control it? Can I just cap off the actuator or should I leave it connected to the intake for function? Kinda makes me want to put the vac can back in if the actuator needs it to function properly.
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if you cap it off it will stay closed... if you give it direct vaccum it will stay open
its pretty much a decision between slightly more low end torque, or more high end flow
i just left mine without vaccum, and had no issues with it
I just put the VSV back on to my FPR and also put the vacuum canister back on with the VSV for the actuator as per the diagram under the hood. After doing these 2 things, the car seems to run much better and smoother than before. Unless that's just the ECU readjusting for a bit?
Seems like I shouldn't have taken these things off?
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