Electric Fans Question

First off....you could have gotten the same fans from Summit Racing for 189 i believe.....PHR charges 250??? They are same fan setup. Also..not sure how you are going to do it..but i have mine setup up to run all the time....basically anytime the key is turned over. As for the fan shroud..pretty much straight forward. Will have to get under car though a little bit......just jack up front of car. Take off the big underpanel if you still have it to access the under side of fan shroud. I belive going by memory their are 2 10mm bolts up top ..and 2-3 down the bottom under car. There is a clip or to undo...And also remove or unhook one end and get out of way the upper radiator hose so you can pull fan shroud out. The fan shroud should easily pull out....and to remove the fan...Just remove the 4 10 mm nuts holding fan onto pulley.....then remove fan..and replace the nuts back on the pulley. Thats it....then just install the fans. 12v ign Power, ground, tie in the supplied 30 amp fuse. And thats it. Works awesome. No need to run off thermostat or anything like that. Just have them run all the time.

Harmonics are the frequencies that motors tend to vibrate at from the internals moving around basically at certain speeds. That's the reason for dampening and fluid motor mounts in certain places on various cars. Larger 4 cyl. have huge need for this because of the booming frequency they can send through the car and large inline 6 cyl. tend to get some vibration due to having a long crank.

Well when I would get in the upper rev I could feel a slight roughness in the motor, now mind you it was very slight and I'm very sensitive to the slightest changes. But anyway I have a lightened flywheel also so with no dampening of the motors vibrations from that and none on the front end I figured I better switch the easiest one out to see if things smoothed out again. I had the UR on since fall of last year so I gave it plenty of a chance to see how it worked out. I had heard form another Supra guy about possible crank creep from the UR as well, that is where the crank pulley actually starts to slip past the key on the crank and it could possibly screw up the key, crank and pulley. Anyway I had to change the timing belt so I took the pulley off and there it was, signs of the crank creep. Apparently the soft lightweight aluminum of the UR was giving way and turning around the crank just like I had been warned. So to keep anything else from getting messed up I put the stocker back on and the very slight roughness went away as well. I sent a message to UR about the problems but they said I must have been missinformed and to read their tech pages about their pulleys not having any problems. Well I have personal experience with these problems and will stick with the stock crank pulley and use the greddy pulleys for the accessories now. I'm going to sell my UR accessory pulleys because they are perfect and are very nice pieces but I will just count the crank pulley as a loss.

Oh and I didn't feel much of a difference in power either between the two but I never actually did a dyno to see.

Sorry this was so long...

By the way the electric fans aren't any louder than the stock fan IMHO, and hooking them to the stick secondary fan wiring that runs of the thermo temp was the easiest way to go and happened to work perfectly...

Well since you're into show stuff the UR will probably be fine especially if you don't drive it all the time.
I'll be going with the B&M myself, I heard goods things so far on it and have been happy with the B&Ms I've put in friends cars.
I think the OS Giken comes w/ the flywheel anyway. I haven't used that one but it might make the tranny noisy, which also shouldn't matter if you don't drive it every day. You might want to look at some of the tranny threads out here to get ideas on the different clutches. I think the TRD twin disk is a little more quiet and a little cheaper and people running over 600 hp have gotten decent wear out of them, but the OS will hold ultimately more power. I think HKS' triple disk holds the most power at the moment, peddle pressure is light but it causes a very noisey tranny. HKS is supposed to have a sprung hub triple very soon though...
The TRD tranny mount you can get with the TRD engine mounts for about $350 from MVP Motorsports, so you may want to just get that set if you don't plan on making over 700 hp.
The CF shaft is great for safety and takes up some drivetrain shock and saves a # or two.
And the gear set, well with spending all that $$$ why not! just make sure to do the TRD LSD or something like that along with the gears or even without the gears would make a great addition for getting the power down...

Damn I'm wordy!

Well not that we have tottally butchered the thread about fans. I didn't even think about an LSD, lol. I do drive the car daily, but I believe with some sort of mounts the car should dampen fine with UR crank and OS Giken flywheel. I'm trying to decide what to build first in my car.

Driveshaft/Tranny
Build Engine (bulletproof)
Suspension
Looks

It will be a show car, but my daily also.

Blitz Intake
Tanabe DP
Blitz SSBOV
HKS Ti
Tein HA
Tein Pillowballs
Cusco Front/Rear Tower Bars
Greddy BCC
HKS BC Pro
HKS Type 1
Fields Harness
UR Pulley Set
SS Branke Lines
HKS Hard Pipe Kit
HKS AFR
TRD Sways
Fluidyne Radiator
FAL Fan Upgrade
HKS GCC
HKS VPC

and so man other, I just listed off the top of my head and my list with my shop. your thoughts?

Yep we've shreaded the thread...

I'm not sure how engine or tranny mounts would dampen out the engine vibrations unless they are fluid filled and the ones I know of are not because they can't handle the higher HP typically. But anyway...

Okay so lets deal with the list...

If you're building the motor up I'm guessing you're going with either a single or big twin turbo setup because if you're sticking w/ stock turbos it would be a waste of money since the 2JZ80 is so strong to begin with.
And if you are going with one of these big turbo kits it will most likely come with it's own intake so... one down
If you're getting the VPC without the harness then you could utilize the field harness otherwise you can just use the HKS harness for tapping in everything.
If you're getting a FMIC, wich is a must, you will probably get one with the pipes already so you shouldn't need the hard pipe kit.
And is you're using the VPC GCC combo you probably won't need the AFR because basically that is what the GCC is doing. I think the top Tein kit comes with the PB mounts and works out to be the same price separate or together...

Just trying to cut down on the duplication and extra costs you don't need. If you buy just the necessaties then you can use that money towards the fuel system you'll need to support whatever you plan on running...