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Electric Fans Question

2253 Views 18 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  theman
I have a set of PHR electric fans coming soon and would like to know how difficult and straightforward the installation is.
Should I expect difficulties in removing the fan shroud and stock fan?
Can I do everything from above or do I need to raise the car to get to something underneath when removing and fitting items?

For Supra owners who have electric fans, can you get away with the stock alternator (with lightweight underdrive pulley) or should I go straight for the larger alternator (expensive!)?
Are there any alternatives to the PHR upgraded alternator kit?

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First could have gotten the same fans from Summit Racing for 189 i believe.....PHR charges 250??? They are same fan setup. Also..not sure how you are going to do it..but i have mine setup up to run all the time....basically anytime the key is turned over. As for the fan shroud..pretty much straight forward. Will have to get under car though a little bit......just jack up front of car. Take off the big underpanel if you still have it to access the under side of fan shroud. I belive going by memory their are 2 10mm bolts up top ..and 2-3 down the bottom under car. There is a clip or to undo...And also remove or unhook one end and get out of way the upper radiator hose so you can pull fan shroud out. The fan shroud should easily pull out....and to remove the fan...Just remove the 4 10 mm nuts holding fan onto pulley.....then remove fan..and replace the nuts back on the pulley. Thats it....then just install the fans. 12v ign Power, ground, tie in the supplied 30 amp fuse. And thats it. Works awesome. No need to run off thermostat or anything like that. Just have them run all the time.
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How loud would you say your fans are compared to stock, and why is ther a thermostat. What are th advantages to this?
I have 2 electric fans with no shroud that I ran off the stock thermostat and stock wiring and relay. That way they don't run all the time. I was amazed how little they do run at idle and still keep the engine at operating temp. They kick on for about 15 seconds and then turn off repeating the cycle about every minute or so. When the car is moving above 30mph they don't kick even turn on. I also hooked up a manual switch so I could bypass the relay and run it continueously when I run her hard.
I hooked my dual fans to run from the thermostat setting as well. same results, work pretty darn well. As far as the alternator question with my setup I'm running a tiny dreycell batt, upgraded sound system with two Fosgate amps and been running the AC all summer with the lightened UR pulleys and had no problems. BUT I put the crank pulley back to stock because of harmonics and will be running the Greddy pulleys as soon as I get the right belt size. The only upgrade I might do is go to an alternator for the automatic since the output is about 10-15 amps more than the stick. Much less $$$:D
Why did you switch back to stock crank? What do you mean by harmonics?

lol the reason I ask is just because DT had such problems everyone is against aftermarket UR cranks. Truth I think is, that stock cranks crack, and break. But I dunno that's whay I asked ;)
Which fan is it at Summit, part# if you have it?
Harmonics are the frequencies that motors tend to vibrate at from the internals moving around basically at certain speeds. That's the reason for dampening and fluid motor mounts in certain places on various cars. Larger 4 cyl. have huge need for this because of the booming frequency they can send through the car and large inline 6 cyl. tend to get some vibration due to having a long crank.

Well when I would get in the upper rev I could feel a slight roughness in the motor, now mind you it was very slight and I'm very sensitive to the slightest changes. But anyway I have a lightened flywheel also so with no dampening of the motors vibrations from that and none on the front end I figured I better switch the easiest one out to see if things smoothed out again. I had the UR on since fall of last year so I gave it plenty of a chance to see how it worked out. I had heard form another Supra guy about possible crank creep from the UR as well, that is where the crank pulley actually starts to slip past the key on the crank and it could possibly screw up the key, crank and pulley. Anyway I had to change the timing belt so I took the pulley off and there it was, signs of the crank creep. Apparently the soft lightweight aluminum of the UR was giving way and turning around the crank just like I had been warned. So to keep anything else from getting messed up I put the stocker back on and the very slight roughness went away as well. I sent a message to UR about the problems but they said I must have been missinformed and to read their tech pages about their pulleys not having any problems. Well I have personal experience with these problems and will stick with the stock crank pulley and use the greddy pulleys for the accessories now. I'm going to sell my UR accessory pulleys because they are perfect and are very nice pieces but I will just count the crank pulley as a loss.

Oh and I didn't feel much of a difference in power either between the two but I never actually did a dyno to see.

Sorry this was so long...:rolleyes:

By the way the electric fans aren't any louder than the stock fan IMHO, and hooking them to the stick secondary fan wiring that runs of the thermo temp was the easiest way to go and happened to work perfectly...
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Thanks for your great reply, Ill have to look into the creek thing. My worries are not HP gain but show appeal. I mean aftermarket is supped to be better right? Well I wonder if anyone else makes a crank pully for mkiv dawgs..
Well for show appeal the UR stuff is great then. If someone wanted to go through the trouble they could press the pulley part off the dampener then send the dampening to AEM or someone like that to has the new underdrive ribs cut in for the belt, balance it like it was from the factory, and then polish the dampener since it's mostly aluminum with a rubber insert. But that would be one expensive crank pulley:eek:

UR is probably one of the highest quality pulley makers, the key is to have a lightened dampened pulley which I've only seen one place make. I'll have to find the name but in SCC mag. they had one done for their 300z project car, and that daul mass pulley was awesome and quite pretty. It's sortof like the stock TT's flywheel in the way it works...
Well the UR guys basically told me, with motor/tranny mounts whatever problems people have been having should be fine. So I choose the PHR motor mounts. I'm looking to do the following:

B&M Short Shifter
OS Giken Twin Disk
OS Giken Lightweight Flywheel
TRD Tranny Mounts
UR Pulley Kit w/Crank
PHR Motor Mounts
PHR Carbon Driveshaft
PHR Ring & Pinion 3.27:1 Gears

Hopefully this will work out to some great numbers to the back wheels. Your thoughts..?
Well since you're into show stuff the UR will probably be fine especially if you don't drive it all the time.
I'll be going with the B&M myself, I heard goods things so far on it and have been happy with the B&Ms I've put in friends cars.
I think the OS Giken comes w/ the flywheel anyway. I haven't used that one but it might make the tranny noisy, which also shouldn't matter if you don't drive it every day. You might want to look at some of the tranny threads out here to get ideas on the different clutches. I think the TRD twin disk is a little more quiet and a little cheaper and people running over 600 hp have gotten decent wear out of them, but the OS will hold ultimately more power. I think HKS' triple disk holds the most power at the moment, peddle pressure is light but it causes a very noisey tranny. HKS is supposed to have a sprung hub triple very soon though...
The TRD tranny mount you can get with the TRD engine mounts for about $350 from MVP Motorsports, so you may want to just get that set if you don't plan on making over 700 hp.
The CF shaft is great for safety and takes up some drivetrain shock and saves a # or two.
And the gear set, well with spending all that $$$ why not!:D just make sure to do the TRD LSD or something like that along with the gears or even without the gears would make a great addition for getting the power down...

Damn I'm wordy!:rolleyes:
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Well not that we have tottally butchered the thread about fans. I didn't even think about an LSD, lol. I do drive the car daily, but I believe with some sort of mounts the car should dampen fine with UR crank and OS Giken flywheel. I'm trying to decide what to build first in my car.

Build Engine (bulletproof)

It will be a show car, but my daily also.

Blitz Intake
Tanabe DP
Tein HA
Tein Pillowballs
Cusco Front/Rear Tower Bars
Greddy BCC
HKS Type 1
Fields Harness
UR Pulley Set
SS Branke Lines
HKS Hard Pipe Kit
TRD Sways
Fluidyne Radiator
FAL Fan Upgrade

and so man other, I just listed off the top of my head and my list with my shop. your thoughts? :eek: :D ;)
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Yep we've shreaded the thread...

I'm not sure how engine or tranny mounts would dampen out the engine vibrations unless they are fluid filled and the ones I know of are not because they can't handle the higher HP typically. But anyway...

Okay so lets deal with the list...

If you're building the motor up I'm guessing you're going with either a single or big twin turbo setup because if you're sticking w/ stock turbos it would be a waste of money since the 2JZ80 is so strong to begin with.
And if you are going with one of these big turbo kits it will most likely come with it's own intake so... one down
If you're getting the VPC without the harness then you could utilize the field harness otherwise you can just use the HKS harness for tapping in everything.
If you're getting a FMIC, wich is a must, you will probably get one with the pipes already so you shouldn't need the hard pipe kit.
And is you're using the VPC GCC combo you probably won't need the AFR because basically that is what the GCC is doing. I think the top Tein kit comes with the PB mounts and works out to be the same price separate or together...

Just trying to cut down on the duplication and extra costs you don't need. If you buy just the necessaties then you can use that money towards the fuel system you'll need to support whatever you plan on running...
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Sounds good to me! As for the intake I want the Blitz ones.

ARP Head Stud Kit
ARP Main Stud Kit
Ferra Valves
Carillo Rods
JE Pistons
Custom Camshafts (based on turbo setup)
Engine Chronologically Bonded/Sealed

lol I love naming things off the top of my head. The goal of this car is to basically have the best of everything. Overkill is the word of choice. The AFR thing is interesting to me many with the HKS 2835 kit have VPC/GCC/AFR setups to fine tune the dips and rises in turn to the apex'i piggys. Lots of stuff to decide on, Will probably do evetyhing in stages. Show and go is a good way to explain my stages. Looking for quick spooling with low end power, my only decision left is WHICH TURBO. So many to choose from t04, 2835, t25 heh, t78 lots to decide on. Just don;t know what to choose. The reason for built motor is for a great foundation. The turbo will be the last thing I purchase but it need strong legs to stand on.
Well seems like a fun project, I'm sure we'll all be able to see the progress on the board as it progresses.

I guess we've gotten off the point of this thread enough for today...:D
Someone a while back was getting so much vibration through the crank they were blowing up clutches(?). They were running a light weight flywheel and a undamped underdrive pulley. Seems like an awfully big risk when you can run everything but the crank and only give up a few horses. Why not just turn the boost up .0001 pounds and get that 1 extra hp back.
It was DT, only thing is he had some past with that car. It's not the best example of a car to base facts on. If it wss an accident or somehting not sure, but something else was off and the crank wasn't helping it.
Good point greensoup... Mine only had the slightest hint of vibration in the top end but I figured with the extremely close tolerances Toyota builds the motors with it brings that bulletproof factor down a hair. So out went the undampened pulley with the crank creep going on that you wouldn't even know about unless you took it off to inpect...
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