Supra Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
An Idiot Abroad
Joined
·
241 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I have 06' R6.

I was keeping it at my friends house for the winter and he needed to start it so he could move it. The battery was dead so he put it on the charger.
Only problem is that he's a fucking dumbass and puts it on the wrong AMP setting.

He said when he checked it an hour later there was smoke coming from the terminals.
He took it off and the bike wouldn't start. I just found all this out 2 days ago.

So yesterday I get a battery. I add the acid and charge it correctly.
I hook up the batt. today and when I turn the ignition on it does the guage sweep like normal. It turns over fine but won't start.

Then I look at the dash and the check engine light is on. Also neither headlight is on and switching between hi and low beam dosen't turn them on either.
The reset and select buttons on the dash also do nothing now.

Electrical stuff is the one thing I really don't know anything about. I have a feeling this is something serious. I just wanted to get you guys opinions before I bring it to the dealer.

Please help. I'm dying to start riding again.
 

·
An Idiot Abroad
Joined
·
241 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
check fuses. they are there to protect the expensive components from blowing smoke.
That was the first thing I checked. They're all fine

I noticed it was throwing engine code 21 which is coolant temp sensor open or short circut.
I'm gonna be pulling that out and testing it today. I gotta pull apart half the bike to get to it too. So I really hope thats the problem.
I don't know if that would keep it from starting though. Also there's no explanation to why the headlight aren't working either.

I found the service manual online so that helps a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,822 Posts
i would double check the fuses with a quality tester, and then pull them all out individually and inspect them, if you find one that has been fused together because of the extended battery problem, then youll be looking at a more expensive mistake.


things to check... disconnect the battery, and follow the cable to their source, make sure nothing has been melted together causing some kind of short.

aside from that, its a mattery of making sure that the components in the charging system (im not familiar with bikes really) are operationg correctly... is there a voltage regulator?
 

·
An Idiot Abroad
Joined
·
241 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I did pull all the fuses and they all looked fine. Held them up to a strong light and there is no discoloration at all and appear to be fine.

I got the wiring schematic in the service manual so I'll inspect all the wires by hand. Not sure about the voltage regulator, but I'll check that.

I hope it's something I can fix, but if I can't you can bet that my dumb ass friend will be footing the $90/hr bill.
 

·
An Idiot Abroad
Joined
·
241 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ok so I figured out part of the problem. Fucking bitch ass mice.



Nest under the fuel tank.



One end of chewed wires.



Other end of chewed wires.



The nest in a bag.



Inside the air box. Once I saw the nest I was worried about stuff in here, but luckily there wasn't.
Incase you're unfamilar with bike those are the secondary set of injectors protruding out of the plastic on the left.

Ok, so I spliced the wires back together temporarily and the check engine light went away and the buttons on the dash are working again.
Bike still won't start. Gonna check spark plugs tomorrow.

The headlights still won't work though. I tested the bulbs. Both are good.
When I put a volt tester on the headlight terminals the low beam side only reads like 1.5 volts.
When I turn the high beam side on the high beam side reads like 5 volts.
It's a 12 volt system so shouldn't it read 12 volts?

What could cause these low volt readings and different volt readings?

Oh and I checked all the fuses with a tester. All fine.
I also couldn't find anything about a voltage regulator in the service manual.
 

·
FUCK NOW!
Joined
·
1,076 Posts
Ok so I figured out part of the problem. Fucking bitch ass mice.



Nest under the fuel tank.



One end of chewed wires.



Other end of chewed wires.



The nest in a bag.



Inside the air box. Once I saw the nest I was worried about stuff in here, but luckily there wasn't.
Incase you're unfamilar with bike those are the secondary set of injectors protruding out of the plastic on the left.

Ok, so I spliced the wires back together temporarily and the check engine light went away and the buttons on the dash are working again.
Bike still won't start. Gonna check spark plugs tomorrow.

The headlights still won't work though. I tested the bulbs. Both are good.
When I put a volt tester on the headlight terminals the low beam side only reads like 1.5 volts.
When I turn the high beam side on the high beam side reads like 5 volts.
It's a 12 volt system so shouldn't it read 12 volts?

What could cause these low volt readings and different volt readings?

Oh and I checked all the fuses with a tester. All fine.
I also couldn't find anything about a voltage regulator in the service manual.
I would venture to guess the problems are still related to the wiring for your headlights. I'd keep looking for damaged wires. Did you drain the tank and put some fresh gas in there? Does it sound like it is trying to start or not even close?

Jonny
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,822 Posts
those damn mic elike goin fast.

i would be looking at your ground wires for the system. a bad ground might cause the low voltage.

mice probably got to some wires somewhere else that you just havent seen yet. check the voltage to ther other components getting power, amke sure its all the right voltage, if it isn't, you can bet its going to be a ground somewhere if your battery is putting out 12v
 

·
An Idiot Abroad
Joined
·
241 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Ok, so update on the situation.

Cleaned everything out, searched everywhere for more chewed wires, didn't find any.
Drained tank, put in fresh gas and new spark plugs. Bike still wouldn't start.

Sprayed some starting fluid in the throttle bodies and the bike started but would only stay running on the SF.
For whatever reason getting the bike to run also made the headlights work again.
They work now just when the key is in the ignition position, which is how they are supposed to. It wasn't doing that and getting the bike to kick over somehow made it work again. Weird.

I'm thinking it's the fuel pump now because I checked all the fuel lines and the ECU says the injectors are working fine.
Also when you turn the key to the ignition position you should be able to hear the pump turn on. It's a semi-loud wine and I didn't even realize I wasn't hearing it.
I checked the voltage at the pump to and it is getting power.
I haven't been able to check the pressure yet because I need a tee that goes in the fuel line with an adaptor for the fuel pressure gauge.
There's no spot on the fuel rail to test it like a car.

I called the dealership about a fuel pump and they said $517. Fuck that. I checked ebay and I found some for 55-$75.
It says it's brand new but not if it's oem.

That's it for now.
Thanks for the help guys and I'll let ya know how it turns out.
 

·
FUCK NOW!
Joined
·
1,076 Posts
Ok, so update on the situation.

Cleaned everything out, searched everywhere for more chewed wires, didn't find any.
Drained tank, put in fresh gas and new spark plugs. Bike still wouldn't start.

Sprayed some starting fluid in the throttle bodies and the bike started but would only stay running on the SF.
For whatever reason getting the bike to run also made the headlights work again.
They work now just when the key is in the ignition position, which is how they are supposed to. It wasn't doing that and getting the bike to kick over somehow made it work again. Weird.

I'm thinking it's the fuel pump now because I checked all the fuel lines and the ECU says the injectors are working fine.
Also when you turn the key to the ignition position you should be able to hear the pump turn on. It's a semi-loud wine and I didn't even realize I wasn't hearing it.
I checked the voltage at the pump to and it is getting power.
I haven't been able to check the pressure yet because I need a tee that goes in the fuel line with an adaptor for the fuel pressure gauge.
There's no spot on the fuel rail to test it like a car.

I called the dealership about a fuel pump and they said $517. Fuck that. I checked ebay and I found some for 55-$75.
It says it's brand new but not if it's oem.

That's it for now.
Thanks for the help guys and I'll let ya know how it turns out.
Well it sounds like you are making progress - although I don't understand how the lights just started working out of nowhere... Interesting. Electrical gremlins suck.

Let us know if the new pump works.
Jonny
 

·
An Idiot Abroad
Joined
·
241 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Pulled the pump. Won't even turn on at all.
Also it looks awful. There's corrosion and all kinds of shit built up on it.

Just orderd the new one today. Should be here Sat. or Monday at the latest.
 

·
An Idiot Abroad
Joined
·
241 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Final update: Fuel pump was here when I got home from work.
Just threw it in and it fired right up perfecrtly. Gonna give it a once over and a good washing and I'll be good to go for the season.
 

·
FUCK NOW!
Joined
·
1,076 Posts
Final update: Fuel pump was here when I got home from work.
Just threw it in and it fired right up perfecrtly. Gonna give it a once over and a good washing and I'll be good to go for the season.
Awesome - congrats :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
I know it's been a while, but if anyone can help me with this problem it would be awesome!! So the green plug that sends power to the pump is dead... I know my fuel pump is working.. It's a 2006 R6, and all the fuses are still good.. I had plug it up to a battery to check, and it's still good, and note to self make sure you have fuel when you're checking this.. You can burn your fuel pump! But if I can get a solution to how I can get power back to the plug it would be sweet!!
Thanks Terry
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top