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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have my car at the Towne Toyota Dealer in Ledgewood NJ with a problem with the starter, and the guy there ( clifford) says the cost will be $534 to replace the starter including the labor!

That sounds ridiculous to me, but I'm not sure where to go that I can trust and hopefully be less expensive.

Do any of you guys know of any other shops around the north jersey (Morris County) area?

I also looked into getting my own starter and just having a shop install it, so far here are the prices I've found:

Bosch: $110
Advantex: $180
Denso: $238

I know the Denso is a better starter, but too pricey for me. Do any of you have experience with the Bosh??

Thank you all for any input,


Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here's some wisdom from the MKIV list about starters. Bottom line: they are a PITA to get to, thus the high labor charge, but a competent DIYer should be able to do it.

Take the starter out and take it to a local repair shop that rebuilds starters._ Ask for new contacts._ You will see that they get very worn._ Cost me $5 for parts._ I did the labor myself._ They told me what to do._ It was_actually quite simple._ I was replacing my clutch at the time so I had the starter out._ Removing the starter is the hard part._ See the clutch replacement article for further directions on removing the starter.
I've also included a longer post on a starter problem.
Good luck,
-----Original Message-----

Subject: [mkiv] Dead Starter Fix -Long


I had a issue with my car not starting. Turn the key and all I had was a

"click". I let go of the click and I had another click.

Checked battery. 13 volts.

I crawled under the car and removed the hot wire, starter wire and the two

bolts holding the starter in. I took my battery and grounded the starter

chassis with negative and hooked the positive upto the hot wire stud and a

small jumper from the hotwire stud to the black plastic connector on the


The gear would engage (solinoid) to push the gear out but it would not spin.

I removed the three screws on the back of the solinoid (part where gear

shaft extends out of) and pulled the spring loaded shaft out of the solinoid


When power is applied to the starter there is a copper ring along the back

that energizes and becomes a magnet. This forces the shaft out when that

happens it completes the circuit to turn the starter motor. This turns your

flywheel to start your car. When you let go of the key the solinoid

disengages and lets the gear fall back down into the starter to get out of

the way of the flywheel and breaks the circuit so that it will quit


That copper ring in the back of mine was *highly* coroded. Also were the two

copper brushes in the top of the solinoid.

I took a metal "tootsie roll" and attatched to a drill press and let it spin

to clean the insides out. Sand paper is way to coarse and will pivit the

soft copper. You want a nice shiny smooth finish.

The "tootsie roll" as I call them are the round disc's with metal whiskers

hanging off.

I then removed the motor housing studs. Two 8mm studs. This allowed me to

remove the starter housing. Here you will find the gears. I cleaned them and

applied a heavy gear lube to ensure smooth operation and get rid of old

dust. From here you will find the motor armature. It is suspended inside a

coil with bearings at the back. There are also two brushes at the bottom


I found very heavy corosion here as well. I took a small screwdriver and

literaly scraped the corosion away then tootsie rolled the rest till it was

clean and shiny.

Anywhere you see a solder joint or where contact is made be sure these are

very clean. Re grease all of the gears. Also there are two rubber gasket

o-rings where the two housings close back down on each other. Be very

careful. I took some white lithium grease to these areas to condition the

o-rings and ensure water tightness.

Re assembled the starter and it works like its brand new. Around 2 hours of

work to make sure everything was perfectly clean and assembled properly.


I got lucky. This failure was from a corosion. Usually the brushes are

burned/wore down and those have to be replaced. Which you can get at any

starter/alternator repair shop and do it yourself.

I found (by tracing the stains) where water had been entering the starter.

There is a copper cable that is jumpered from the starter motor to the

solinoid housing. Where the jumper enters the starter motor housing there is

a rubber grommet. When the two housings are joined together the metal of one

housing has to slide in between the grommet. When this starter was built a

lip of the grommet had been tucked under. I know it has to have been done

like this during assembly because the grommet was creased. That makes me

think it had been like this for a long time. This is where water entered.

I took and pushed the crease over and held it for a while. Stuck it back in

the housing and made sure the metal was in between. This makes it as water

tight as possible.

Just to again inflate the quality ego of the entire 2jz-gte system the

starter housing was machined 100% all the way through. The motor armature

was balanced!! You can actually see where they removed less than 10th of an

ounce of metal to balance it on the shaft.

So, the next time your car will just click, and you are sure you dont have a

dead battery... Do this and it will work fine and save you a bench charge at

a starter repair shop.

Quite impressive. Pictures are to follow.


-----Original Message-----
Subject: [mkiv] starter problem

This morning I went out to start the car and it clicked just like a car with I bad starter solenoid. My HKS timer said that I had good voltage (12.45v with pump running) so_ bumped the starter several times until I got it to turn over._
Do our cars have the solenoid built in to the starter? ( I_assume they_do)_Do you_have to replace the entire starter_or_can you just replace_the part that is not working. This sounds like a job for (gasp) Toyota, but I_thought I_would poll the list.
I looked on the FAQ and tech and did not see_any information. Please direct me if there is a link_concerning this issue. Also, is this common for a 90k mile supra?
94 TT
bpu auto
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