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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. I have an 87 Supra turbo with about 117K miles on the motor. Im planning to make around 375-425 in the next couple of months, so bigger turbo, more boost, supporting fuel mods etc. Im a bit worried about the motor being able to handle that much hp for more than 8 months. So I am debating my options on making a better motor for my car. My too biggest constraints are time and money (no big surprise :) ) time > money. I was thinking maybe of buying a "jdm" motor with 30K on it doing a MHG and then engine swap, which would be like $1300 and 2 weeks down time. I had considered rebuilding my motor, but it would be an easy month of down time. What do you guys think? What other options do I have?

Thanks, Drew
 

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can't spell shazam w/o it
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315 Posts
There are people here who have been boostin consistently on the same block for 2 years... what makes you think the 7M is weak? Bad maintainence is the only thing I can think of that'll make a 7M weak, other than that, it's nearly bulletproof. The stock bottom end can handle 500bhp pretty easily.

If I were you, I'd do the following:

- Buy a JDM 7M block online, roughly $1,000 - $1,200.
- Keep what you have, tune it to be a nice and reliable engine.
- Start buildin up that low-mile 7M once it arrives, and at the same time, have a car to drive.

EDIT: You are in New Jersey... you can find a 7M-GTE for a grand or less in your state, you'd have to go pick it up though.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
he was talking about his current motor with 117k on it your options are rebuild the current 7m motor or get a jdm motor that you dont know what hell its been put thru or if you like to be diffrent you can do a engine swap and put a 1jz or whatever your preference is. The 7m motor is a beast except for the stock head gasket if your engine is still strong you can just do a head job on it and put on a metal head gasket its common for the 7mgte to get 200k plus if properly taking care off. Im currently removing my motor to have it rebuilt i would suggest the same to you. Then once the motor is apart if the machinest sees a problem you can take your chances with a jdm good luck
 
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Discussion Starter #7
hamzam said:
There are people here who have been boostin consistently on the same block for 2 years... what makes you think the 7M is weak? Bad maintainence is the only thing I can think of that'll make a 7M weak, other than that, it's nearly bulletproof. The stock bottom end can handle 500bhp pretty easily.

If I were you, I'd do the following:

- Buy a JDM 7M block online, roughly $1,000 - $1,200.
- Keep what you have, tune it to be a nice and reliable engine.
- Start buildin up that low-mile 7M once it arrives, and at the same time, have a car to drive.

EDIT: You are in New Jersey... you can find a 7M-GTE for a grand or less in your state, you'd have to go pick it up though.
Yea, that's basicly what I was thinking.

Thanks for all the replies so far. I have only had this car 8 months maybe, most of the that time spent fixing stuff the previous owners have neglected (no working speedometer, thermostat gauge, 40 + broken or sliced wires, tail lamp sensor, etc.) If they didn't bother to fix that small stuff, why should I think they bothered to change the oil on time or do any preventative maintenance for that matter? I have the money now, a year from now I probably wont. Thats my thinking. Im trying to build this car on the side of caution.
 

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Not so boring anymore
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7,085 Posts
get a spare 7m block and build the bottom end then when ready.. swap it in inplace of the stock bottom end.. shouldn't be too much downtime. about the same as a jdm 7m.. cost would be a little more but would be stronger
 

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A Happy Dad
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2,321 Posts
you should definately run a compression check and see exactly where you're at and check the usual suspects (oil leaks, timing belt, water pump, radiator condition, etc.), if it checks out ok slap a MHG on her and you're good to go for your needs. Just make sure to tune it right
 

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Moderator, megalos ntabatzis!!
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4,409 Posts
^^ exactly, if your compression is good, and your dont have rod knock, who cares how many miles are on there. Fix any leaks and electrical problems and throw some boost in there.

Ang
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
if you really want to have anothe rmotor waiting as backup... do the JDM thing... pull it apart and do a 2.0 MHG and ARP head studs.

while its apart, you could pop the pistons out and replace the rings and rod bolts with ARP's.

while the pistons/rods are out, you could pull the crank out and have it micropolished.

while the crank is out, you could stud the mains with ARP's.

while the mains are out, you could do the Flubyux2 Oil line mod and reset the pickup height and shim the releif spring.
 

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Acceleration
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3,833 Posts
Yea mdr40 hit it perfectly. Don't worry about the miles, they are just a number. Check everything in the engine, do compressions and all sorts of tests to see if the engine is still reliable. If it's not, THEN decide what to do. After all, the motor u have right now could be in perfect condition, but u won't know until u find out :D

Good luck with whatever route u choose
 
D
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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, so listening to the wisdom of you great members :hug: Im trying to compression test the motor. Can you only use the starter to crank the motor? Im trying to hand crank it and Im only getting as high as 30 psi. I searched and read a post from last year to use the starter and the TRM says to use the starter. Im asking because the starter is not so easy to get to while the motor is in the car.

Thanks, Drew
 
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Discussion Starter #16
chevyeater-on-sf said:
Hrm... All you need to do is turn the ignition key to the "start" position. :scratch:

Be sure to pull the EFI fuse first....
ok, but then I need to unplug the cold start injector also? Im just repeating after the trm, but it also says I have to remove the entire throttle body :confused:

Forgive the dumb questions, but Ive never compression tested a motor before.
 

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wastegate hose is pulled
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4,586 Posts
Nope, no need to unplug the cold start if you pull the EFI fuse. It is a good idea to prop the throttle body all the way open, no need to take it all the way off.

It's cool, if you aren't sure, either ask or follow the manual. Sometimes the manual has you do extra work but, it will not let you screw anything up.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
ok so the motor was a little cold by now, but Im show

170 1-6, +/- 1 or 2 (The gauge I have only reads in increments of 5)

I dont appear to be leaking any oil or coolant. I guess it looks good for just a MHG and ARP studs and bolts, but what other test should I do to be sure?

Again thank you everyone for your help. Drew
 
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