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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, just wondering does the actual dp have to come off to remove the engine, its 2am and we are unable to pull the motor, it has popped off its mounts, the tranny dropped back but when we jack the hoist up the whole car moves up and we disconnected everything the steering dampener, the 2 mounts in front, the fuel lines, the rear tranny mount, and driveshaft, the only thing we didn't remove is the dp and we were wondering if that would cause the motor not to come out? aight peace :chicken:
 

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Mr. 2JZUL8R
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DP takes a few seconds to pull off! PULL IT OFF NUMBNUTS! then pull the motor! :p :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
SupraNick said:
DP takes a few seconds to pull off! PULL IT OFF NUMBNUTS! then pull the motor! :p :rolleyes:
lol, damn it nick, what i am saying is that does it essentially need to be ofF? aight peace
 

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Mr. 2JZUL8R
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yes! remove the DP. then remove urself from the earth! ;)
 

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Either the dp or the elbow has to come off...at least one exhaust connection must come off.
 
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no you dont need to take it off.. just keep yanking until you eventually get all of your exaust out as well.. :)

Just kidding dont do that, take it off.
 

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Take off the DP just like everyone said lol. the 3 or 4 bolts ( can't member how many because it's prolly been 3 months since my engine was pulled). Anyways, it was a pain in the butt to get that last bolt off. lol Have fun !
 

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ƒ=1/2π(√k/m)
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take off the elbow from the turbo.


Christ, I can't imagine taking the dp off the elbow... just take the thing off from the turbo, then when in your driveway disconnect it if you want to... but why struggle if you don't have to?
 
R

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you don't need to take the dp off.

go underneath the engine, and take one of the bars off underneath. i forgot what it was called. i think it is about 2 feet long, relatively thick, bolted on with 2 14mm bolts.

once you have that off, raise the front of the car up on jack stands. grab an engine leveller, hook up the engine to the hoist via the leveler. jack up the engine a bit so that the motor mounts come out of the x-member. tilt the front of the engine up as high as you can, then lift up the engine while gradually pulling it forward. once you get the engine out, the tranny should still be hanging in the engine bay. lower the car off the jack stands, and fly the sucker out.

i didn't have to deal with DP bolts :D

rk
 

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Not ur jizz, not ur bizz
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just take the elbow off...thats like a 2 minute job...why is that hard?
 
R

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the elbow bolts, unlike the bar i'm refering to, have been heat cycled over and over. sometimes they'll come off after spraying rust remover and wd40, but other cases. like mine, neither the dp or elbow bolts (nuts?) came off even with a huge ass extension and huge ass breaker bar.

rk
 

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Not ur jizz, not ur bizz
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Thats why you use Anti-Seize Thread Lubricant for every bolt you use.

I use it on every bolt that goes back in and I dont encounter those problems anymore.
 

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ok so it goes from the exhaust manifold ->turbo -> turbo elbow -> downpipe-> cat and the rest of the exhaust system. Also the downpip has a bar holding it in place from the transmission ( I think) .

So you need to disconnect the exhaust side somewhere like where the downpipe and the elbow connect, the turbo and the elbow the turbo from the manifold and you need to disconnect the bar that connects the downpipe and the transmission.

Steve
 
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Johnny,
Anti Sieze is different from WD40? i've used rust penetrator and wd40 with luck on alot of stuff, but if this anti-sieze stuff you use is something else, i'd like to give it a shot :)

RK
 
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Make sure the clutch fork is disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
HA! we pulled the engine without dropping the downpipe, the motor mount was just stuck onto the body... BAS "REPRESENT" aight peace :chicken:
 

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Not ur jizz, not ur bizz
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Rykomats said:
Johnny,
Anti Sieze is different from WD40? i've used rust penetrator and wd40 with luck on alot of stuff, but if this anti-sieze stuff you use is something else, i'd like to give it a shot :)

RK
this anti seize shit is amazing..i never do a job without it.
You put some on your bolt, put it in the thread and say 6 months down the road, you need to take whatever off...it just comes right off easily.

now if you really want to penetrate rust to get that bastard of a bolt out, use PB. Its a weird yellow/white can with alot of shit written all over it, but damn...its like magic.

so to prevent seized bolts, get Anti Seize Lubricant
so get your seized bolts out, use PB
 

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Rooftop Sniper
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BoostAddctn said:
HA! we pulled the engine without dropping the downpipe, the motor mount was just stuck onto the body... BAS "REPRESENT" aight peace :chicken:
I wasn't there, but seeing the 500 hp motor taken out of B-rad's car was pretty sad.
 
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