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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
So i just rebuild my engine and after starting it for the first time and running for 15 min it stopped turning, I checked the timing on the engine and its all perfect, removed the valve cover and there was nothing wrong with the camshaft.
I tired to turn the crankshaft by hand and it will move, so I started to tear in to the whole engine thinking that I might have messed up the whole build. As i was removing the timing belt the exhaust cam was turning without any problem, BUT the intake cam was lock and will not move an inch.
I removed the intake cam and this is what I found
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So as you can see in the picture above the cam started rubbing on the cam cap and sized resulting in a complete engine lock

Here is another picture of the cam cap #1
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unfortunately the cam was also damaged in the process

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As for now I will start to pull the head off and see if there is an damage to the pistons or the valves.

I don't know how this happened, but i think its due to oil not reaching the head.

one more thing, after removing the timing belt I tried and turn the crankshaft and it was moving with no problem.

is it possible to repair the head with welding and line honing the cam cap ?

I will inspect everything and hope there is no more damage.
 

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Head looks repairable but I’d source another cam cap if you can and have it honed with repaired head.

Few questions…

1.) Did you wipe the head down or remove oil pools out of the head prior to the picture? I don’t see any oil pooled in the head for these pics—more assembly lube seen than oil still, actually.

2.) Did you have any oil pressure sensor or gauge hooked up to monitor pressure during startup?

3.) What oil pump are you running?

4.) Are you running stock oil pump crank gear at front of crank?

5.) Does your oil filter have oil in it? Same question for your turbo oil line.
 
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Ugh, that sucks. You may want to pull the head and check the oil galleys to make sure they are not blocked. This is definitely an oiling issue. I don't see any oil in that area at all.

Steve
 

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Head looks repairable but I’d source another cam cap if you can and have it honed with repaired head.

Few questions…

1.) Did you wipe the head down or remove oil pools out of the head prior to the picture? I don’t see any oil pooled in the head for these pics—more assembly lube seen than oil still, actually.

2.) Did you have any oil pressure sensor or gauge hooked up to monitor pressure during startup?

3.) What oil pump are you running?

4.) Are you running stock oil pump crank gear at front of crank?

5.) Does your oil filter have oil in it? Same question for your turbo oil line.
That really sucks, sorry to hear

These lines of question make sense to make sure you have oil pressure being generated and it is actually circulating around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
MsWAtyM7

Hey guys,
Thanks for helping me figure the problem out.
Anyway regarding stockred03 question

1) I did not wipe the head down

2) Yes I have oil pressure sensor BUT I did not check it when I started the engine. Yes that is so stupid of me I should have checked it.

3) Running modified stock oil pump

4) My engine is a BC 3.4l stroker and I have the BC oil gear fitted to it.

5) Yes the filter have oil lots of oil. I have the PHR oil relocation kit. Turbo feed I did not check yet.

So as for what I did.
First I took the head to a guy, he said he will try and fix the head and cam cap. The cam is ok with a little polish it's back to normal, and he will check if there is any bend on the cam, and valves also do a leak down test.

As for what happen the shop that I took the head too, said that happen due to the ARP assembly lube, and he said I put too much on the head studs. He also suggested that I should check the engine block for if I used it too much and might damage the mains and rod bearings.
I'm kinda in a disagreement here because as you guys said there is no oil pools in the head only the assembly lube which should indicate that there is no oil.

I will check the oil relocation kit and see if there is anything wrong with it.
 

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Just a quick question as I've seen this done before. I am not familiar with the remote oil filter kit you have, but some have check valves in them to keep the oil from running back to the pan with the motor shut off. I have seen instances were people hooked the lines up in reverse and starved the motor of oil.... double check those lines.
 

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Very easy to mix up the ports with oil filter relocation kits ... Do you match IN with IN, or should it be IN to OUT ?

 

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Very easy to mix up the ports with oil filter relocation kits ... Do you match IN with IN, or should it be IN to OUT ?

Its "OUT" of the relocation adapter to the "IN" on the filter housing and "OUT" from the filter housing to the "IN" on the relocation adapter. PHR has a video that explains this.
PHR Oil Cooler Kit and Oil Filter Relocation
 
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Good points on the relocation kit. I almost wish PHR included a diagram with it as it’s sort of misleading. Please check these lines.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys.
I will check the oil relocation kit, and right now am almost sure it's from this.

Also what do you guys think about the shop when he said that the ARP assembly lube could damage the bearings and cam caps ? Is it possible??
 

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Also what do you guys think about the shop when he said that the ARP assembly lube could damage the bearings and cam caps ? Is it possible??
You didn’t use more ARP lube than what was provided in the packet, right? Most I’ve used is 1.5x packets for a single engine. Even if you did, that wouldn’t cause that much damage in 15mins of what I assume was all idling. You apparently weren’t circulating fluids anyway.

Ive seen people leave ARP lube in their oil for 1k miles—although I wouldn’t. Curious to hear how your sandwich plate lines were ran.
 

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You're talking about the thread lube, correct? Not engine assembly lube? That thread lube can stick around for some miles after the first drain. You may still see some trace amounts after several oil changes.

Steve
 

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this is unfortunate to see (sorry). It does appear the head did not get oil from initial startup.

I had a unknown junkyard toyota 1zz engine that lost oil pressure 5 min after install. the light came on during a test drive and I tried to limp back sort of half believing the id10t light. anyway motor knocked and seized up within one mile at very low rpm/speed (1500 rpm, 20mph). the head lived through that and has gone 20k miles on a different short block. this is why I think the head never got oil in your situation. if it had, and the engine starved (zero pressure) it would very possibly outlast the main/rods bearings from residual oil (as happened in my experience with oil pressure loss).
 

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A total bummer!
Very obvious that no oil reached the head.
As stated earlier, check oil passages and the add on kit for correct installation.
 

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Oil relocation adapter probably plumbed wrong. Checking pressure gauge after start up is oh so important. No pressure immediately stop the motor....it happen to me but when I saw no pressure when I started the car I stopped the motor immediately.
 

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Just as a side note, it's not unusual to see some scoring on the 7M head journals and camshaft.
 

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Very curious as to what was found with this. As I just purchased the PHR oil cooler and oil filter relocation kit for my car as well. And I’ll be firing a brand new built motor as well once my damn head studs show up. Lol
 
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