Supra Forums banner

61 - 71 of 71 Posts

·
Registered
1988 MA70 Turbo
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 ·
if intake valve 5 is open and you have air leaking into the intake manifold through a bad valve in #1 then you could get air from 1 to 5.
No valve leakage. I had the valve covers off, along with the intercooler pipes so if was leaking through the intake manifold, I would have known - it wasn't, and it shouldnt considering I just got my head rebuilt and valves done.
 

·
90T
Joined
·
594 Posts
As long as the throttle is closed it wouldn't matter if the covers were off or the pipes disconnected. But I'm just throwing ideas out there. If the #1 valve lash was too tight it would not close completely and present a leak into the intake manifold that could show up at any of the other cylinders with an open intake valve. Just thinking of ways to get air from #1 to #5. You could argue the same for the exhaust side except there is not throttle plate to keep the air inside the manifold. The only other passages would be coolant. Coolant leaks in #1 and #5 could allow air to transfer between the two.
 

·
Registered
1988 MA70 Turbo
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter · #63 ·
As long as the throttle is closed it wouldn't matter if the covers were off or the pipes disconnected. But I'm just throwing ideas out there. If the #1 valve lash was too tight it would not close completely and present a leak into the intake manifold that could show up at any of the other cylinders with an open intake valve. Just about the only way I could think to get air from #1 to #5. You could argue the same for the exhaust side except there is not throttle plate to keep the air inside the manifold.
Yea I totally agree. When I opened the valves, there was a noticeable noise in the intake and you could feel air rushing out if you open the throttle body, which rules out the intake leak.

The exhaust valveleak is still a possibility I suppose. I will try and run the test again with both sets of valves closed if possible. But I doubt it honestly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,475 Posts
I know it'd be a pain in the butt for troubleshooting, but could you take the cams out to perform a leakdown test? My thinking is that this might eliminate valve adjustment as a possible factor, since all the valves would then be closed. Seal off the intake and exhaust ports on the head, and that should tell you if your valves are sealing properly. Just a thought my rather tired brain came up with, so I might be overlooking something.
 

·
Registered
1988 MA70 Turbo
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Bought a rear sump kit. Will be buying a 2JZGE out of an IS300 soon here.

Completed a final leakdown test. No valve leakage, and no coolant bubbles. However, air happened to be flowing quite noticeably out of my dipstick tube entrance at the bottom (I removed it).

Just gonna go out on a limb and say my engine isn't doing so hot. I'm rather fed up and I will be pulling it.

I have a couple questions about the JZ swap now that I hadn't thought of before.

When I purchased a Tweak'd Harness, what will be kept from my Mk3 Supra? Fuse box connectors, battery terminals, and what body plugs?

On the vehicle, my wiring harness doesn't connect anywhere in the body within my engine bay (aside from fuse box stuff). I assume once I get into my glove box, there will be connectors there that will need to be kept for the body.

Do driftmotion's NA-T turbo kits have clearance issues in the mk3 chassis? Or quality issues?

Will an 8.5:1 compression ratio (Wiseco pistons) work well for my goals? They only have the options for .5mm or 1mm oversized too. Yay extra machine work.

Small question, will the Turbo VVTI spark plug cover fit on the NA VVTI?

Will I need to buy a mk4 supra radiator or is300 for the coolant hoses to fit?

What size injectors will fit my goals and needs? Along with this, would I want low or high impedance injectors? Low impedance will need resistor packs, like my 7M has? How would I incorporate those or is it a lot simpler than I am thinking.

EGR Delete? Anything else I need to worry about as for small things?

Tachometer? How will I make it work, I don't know how the stock system works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,121 Posts
When I purchased a Tweak'd Harness, what will be kept from my Mk3 Supra? Fuse box connectors, battery terminals, and what body plugs?
The harness should plug into all the stock wiring under the dash that is not part of the engine harness but still required for things to work. Same for any fuse box connectors there may be.

Will an 8.5:1 compression ratio (Wiseco pistons) work well for my goals? They only have the options for .5mm or 1mm oversized too. Yay extra machine work.
Yes, but 9:1 would be better. The majority of aftermarket pistons will be the same with being oversized; forged pistons require different skirt to wall clearances for the different thermal expansion rates of the different alloys used in forged pistons.

Will I need to buy a mk4 supra radiator or is300 for the coolant hoses to fit?
JZA70 coolant hose kit should be all you need.

What size injectors will fit my goals and needs? Along with this, would I want low or high impedance injectors? Low impedance will need resistor packs, like my 7M has? How would I incorporate those or is it a lot simpler than I am thinking.
Going straight to a full standalone ECU? If you're buying a full new harness I would suggest doing so right off the bat instead of having to mess around with your harness later. With a full standalone I would go with something like the ID1050x injectors. Good idle quality and plenty of room for expansion. The high impedance will negate the need for an injector resistor pack and pretty much all modern ECUs can drive high impedance injectors directly. Low impedance will need an injector resistor pack wired in between the power supply to the injectors and the injectors.

Tachometer? How will I make it work, I don't know how the stock system works.
Stock systems gets the tach signal from the ignitor. And again, this will depend on your ECU choice.
 

·
Registered
1988 MA70 Turbo
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter · #68 ·
The harness should plug into all the stock wiring under the dash that is not part of the engine harness but still required for things to work. Same for any fuse box connectors there may be.


Yes, but 9:1 would be better. The majority of aftermarket pistons will be the same with being oversized; forged pistons require different skirt to wall clearances for the different thermal expansion rates of the different alloys used in forged pistons.


JZA70 coolant hose kit should be all you need.


Going straight to a full standalone ECU? If you're buying a full new harness I would suggest doing so right off the bat instead of having to mess around with your harness later. With a full standalone I would go with something like the ID1050x injectors. Good idle quality and plenty of room for expansion. The high impedance will negate the need for an injector resistor pack and pretty much all modern ECUs can drive high impedance injectors directly. Low impedance will need an injector resistor pack wired in between the power supply to the injectors and the injectors.


Stock systems gets the tach signal from the ignitor. And again, this will depend on your ECU choice.
"Should" lol.

Arias makes 9:1, Maybe I'll pick those up if it will be better. I don't plan on crazy boost - I havent even decided on the turbo I want yet - havent even done any research on that yet since it will be the very last thing I add to the build essentially.

I totally forgot the JZA70 was a vehicle. That might be easier.

Yes I will be going straight to a standalone, I am thinking ecu master classic but still trying to figure out what works best. AEM Infinity or ECUMaster Classic are my top options right now, and I have a Supra tuner here in Calgary that is familiar with both systems. Tweak'd can wire in resistor packs as an option if I choose to go that way.

So with a 2JZ-GE VVTI, a tweak'd harness, and a standalone ECU, will I have any problems with the tach or will it work by just plugging everything in?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,121 Posts
"Should" lol.
Yeah......

Arias makes 9:1, Maybe I'll pick those up if it will be better. I don't plan on crazy boost
I prefer it, seems to be more streetable than the lower compression ratios. The lower compression ratios really only come in at higher boost levels as far as benefit goes.

I havent even decided on the turbo I want yet - havent even done any research on that yet since it will be the very last thing I add to the build essentially.
Just food for thought: my 7M made 630whp on a billet Garrett 65mm with 91oct at roughly 6k ft density altitude. Actual altitude is right at 5100ft. Still very streetable so I'd stick to that range personally.

Yes I will be going straight to a standalone, I am thinking ecu master classic but still trying to figure out what works best. AEM Infinity or ECUMaster Classic are my top options right now, and I have a Supra tuner here in Calgary that is familiar with both systems. Tweak'd can wire in resistor packs as an option if I choose to go that way.
Both are reportedly good but I have heard from multiple tuners that the Infinity has a bit of a stumble under cruise conditions that no one has been able to figure out. I'd talk it over with your tuner and figure out which one he would be able to make work the best for your goals. Both ECUs can direct drive high imp. injectors so I would still recommend getting a modern set of injectors and going full sequential without a resistor box.

So with a 2JZ-GE VVTI, a tweak'd harness, and a standalone ECU, will I have any problems with the tach or will it work by just plugging everything in?
Both ECUs have a tach output that will work with the OEM tach.
 

·
Registered
1988 MA70 Turbo
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter · #70 ·
So guys, update time.

Pulled my 7m finally! turns out one of my motor mounts had separated from the rubber and I couldn't get the nut off, so the sledgehammer helped out.

Having some issues taking the r154 off the motor, I have read I need to get the clutch fork out and its a pain so will be doing that later.

I have decided (and already bought) a low mileage (58k) JDM 2JZGE out of an Is300/altezza from a jdm importer.

due to the nature of this engine, I am heavily considering skipping the rebuild process and just going straight for boost - but obviously not high power. I have read/heard that the max the GE VVTI rods can take is 350-400hp? is this wheel rating or crank?

I was thinking about doing a quality NA-T build to aim for 300whp reliably until I am in a better position to afford a full engine build. Without rebuilding the engine, I am saving myself 4-7k of this build that I could put elsewhere such as paint or new tires, etc.

Here is the breakdown.

2JZ-GE VVTI, with an R154 transmission.
JZ Bellhousing
Rear sump pan
Driftmotion NA-T Turbo kit (without turbo)
An appropriate T4 turbo (Still need to do a lot of research on turbos before deciding, suggestions very welcome)
Gasket kit to refresh the engine
Driftmotion mk3 mounts
Walbro 255 or similar
Appropriate clutch kit (I need one for a 7M, right?)
Lightweight flywheel (1jz)
Poly motor and trans mounts
Ebay FFIM and fuel rail with return (@Wreckless, the one you sent me). Unnecessary but I absolutely hate the GE and 7M style intake when I go to work on the car.
Tweak'd Harness
ECUMaster Classic or AEM Standalone, still undecided.
Appropriate injectors (need suggestions for the new idea for power (300whp daily driver)
3in intercooler pipes and a good front mount intercooler.
3in downpipe and custom exhaust as I sold my old one.
Gauges gauges gauges
A dyno tune
Fluidampr or ATI crank pulley
New timing kit and serpentine belt
Water pump
New starter
Fuel pump 12v mod
New sparkplugs
2jzgte throttle cable

Now for the optional/things that I am considering. Or unnecessary but nice things

Lightweight pulleys
One piece driveshaft
Oil cooler (I'm not sure as to how I would install this, is there a sandwich plate with oil cooler line holes for the GE? Like how the 7M is?
Mishimoto or koyo radiatior
Electric fans? Or stock is300 fan but its ugly. Undecided
New hoses all over
EGR delete (Its a JDM engine so I dont know if it has EGR?)
Engine bay painting and detailing before the engine is put back in. Definitely cleaning it.
Battery relocation to trunk
Driftmotion r154 short shifter
marlin crawler trans rebuild
New sensors
2JZGTE valve covers so I can use the GTE sparkplug cover
Head rebuild ?

Okay now for the question time

With my lower power goal in mind currently, will I still need to switch the head gasket to a GTE one to lower compression or will I be better off sitting with the stock gasket?

Where and how do I hookup a turbo oil feed line on the NA engine? And do I need to worry about water cooling the turbo?

Where and how do I put an oil pressure sender? I can take the one off my 7m and put it on the JZ i dont know where so that my stock gauge works, will that be viable?

Do I need to worry about anything in my fuse box if I get the tweak'd harness or will it theoretically be wired up properly?

And the ultimate question: Is 300whp safe and viable in a daily driver highway cruiser on stock GE VVTI Internals? If it even lasts me two or three summers I would be more than happy. The original plan is still the plan for the future, however, its simply not realistic given my current situation and I wouldnt mind saving the money now and spending more time/energy/money in a few years when it is realistic to do so.

Oh and I guess one last question, can standalones control the VVTI if its put in the tune? Or will it be obsolete?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
1988 MA70 Turbo
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter · #71 ·
So guys, update time.

Pulled my 7m finally! turns out one of my motor mounts had separated from the rubber and I couldn't get the nut off, so the sledgehammer helped out.

Having some issues taking the r154 off the motor, I have read I need to get the clutch fork out and its a pain so will be doing that later.

I have decided (and already bought) a low mileage (58k) JDM 2JZGE out of an Is300/altezza from a jdm importer.

due to the nature of this engine, I am heavily considering skipping the rebuild process and just going straight for boost - but obviously not high power. I have read/heard that the max the GE VVTI rods can take is 350-400hp? is this wheel rating or crank?

I was thinking about doing a quality NA-T build to aim for 300whp reliably until I am in a better position to afford a full engine build. Without rebuilding the engine, I am saving myself 4-7k of this build that I could put elsewhere such as paint or new tires, etc.

Here is the breakdown.

2JZ-GE VVTI, with an R154 transmission.
JZ Bellhousing
Rear sump pan
Driftmotion NA-T Turbo kit (without turbo)
An appropriate T4 turbo (Still need to do a lot of research on turbos before deciding, suggestions very welcome)
Gasket kit to refresh the engine
Driftmotion mk3 mounts
Walbro 255 or similar
Appropriate clutch kit (I need one for a 7M, right?)
Lightweight flywheel (1jz)
Poly motor and trans mounts
Ebay FFIM and fuel rail with return (@Wreckless, the one you sent me). Unnecessary but I absolutely hate the GE and 7M style intake when I go to work on the car.
Tweak'd Harness
ECUMaster Classic or AEM Standalone, still undecided.
Appropriate injectors (need suggestions for the new idea for power (300whp daily driver)
3in intercooler pipes and a good front mount intercooler.
3in downpipe and custom exhaust as I sold my old one.
Gauges gauges gauges
A dyno tune
Fluidampr or ATI crank pulley
New timing kit and serpentine belt
Water pump
New starter
Fuel pump 12v mod
New sparkplugs
2jzgte throttle cable

Now for the optional/things that I am considering. Or unnecessary but nice things

Lightweight pulleys
One piece driveshaft
Oil cooler (I'm not sure as to how I would install this, is there a sandwich plate with oil cooler line holes for the GE? Like how the 7M is?
Mishimoto or koyo radiatior
Electric fans? Or stock is300 fan but its ugly. Undecided
New hoses all over
EGR delete (Its a JDM engine so I dont know if it has EGR?)
Engine bay painting and detailing before the engine is put back in. Definitely cleaning it.
Battery relocation to trunk
Driftmotion r154 short shifter
marlin crawler trans rebuild
New sensors
2JZGTE valve covers so I can use the GTE sparkplug cover
Head rebuild ?

Okay now for the question time

With my lower power goal in mind currently, will I still need to switch the head gasket to a GTE one to lower compression or will I be better off sitting with the stock gasket?

Where and how do I hookup a turbo oil feed line on the NA engine? And do I need to worry about water cooling the turbo?

Where and how do I put an oil pressure sender? I can take the one off my 7m and put it on the JZ i dont know where so that my stock gauge works, will that be viable?

Do I need to worry about anything in my fuse box if I get the tweak'd harness or will it theoretically be wired up properly?

And the ultimate question: Is 300whp safe and viable in a daily driver highway cruiser on stock GE VVTI Internals? If it even lasts me two or three summers I would be more than happy. The original plan is still the plan for the future, however, its simply not realistic given my current situation and I wouldnt mind saving the money now and spending more time/energy/money in a few years when it is realistic to do so.

Oh and I guess one last question, can standalones control the VVTI if its put in the tune? Or will it be obsolete?

Thanks.
Will just do a TT headgasket with ARP headstuds. Will this warrant machine work or will I be okay (provided the engine is in good condition and not warped) just throwing it on? I don't know how/have tools to test roughness average, is that important here like it is with the 7m?

Ideally would like to avoid machine shops.

Looks like "safe" power on the GE is 400whp with a good tune and GTE gasket. Thats the most common number I've seen through all the threads. Before the rods bend. No worries there.
 
61 - 71 of 71 Posts
Top