Hey guys, I have to pull my engine, 2jzgte in order to replace a spun main bearing on #3 cylinder. The engine is completely stock with a little over 8,000 original miles on it. I will probably get away with changing the bearings and at most a rering kit. My question is while I have the engine out, what would you guys suggest changing or upgrading while I have it out. I will probably upgrade the head bolts and the head gasket, I do eventually plan on upgrading my turbo's to a bigger single or twins. Not sure about turbo's yet as there are alot of choices. I just don't want to pull the engine and put it back in and find out I should have done something when I had it out, any input would be greatly appreciated.
Engine upgrade advice. 1995 tt six speed.
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Way to broad of a question for the info you gave B.
You say you will eventually go single....how big?...if your thinking about upgrading to bigger twins that would lead us to believe your looking for big numbers...what you want to put in the engine is up to you. The stock short block has been proven over 700HP but the reliability at those numbers is still being argued. You have to decide what you want for power. When you say "get away with" it makes me think your already budgeting things, and upgrading most of the internals is $$$. Pick a budget and go from there. Rods are nice, as are pistons. A lot of people just use the stock Yota HG, head studs are a good buy too.
What you HAVE to do really depends on the numbers you want to make when you eventually upgrade your boost bits. That being said you COULD spend tens of thousands and put upgraded crank, rods, pistons, valvetrain etc and still only run a few hundred HP, just would be a super reliable overkilled setup ready for any turbo you can throw at it.
You say you will eventually go single....how big?...if your thinking about upgrading to bigger twins that would lead us to believe your looking for big numbers...what you want to put in the engine is up to you. The stock short block has been proven over 700HP but the reliability at those numbers is still being argued. You have to decide what you want for power. When you say "get away with" it makes me think your already budgeting things, and upgrading most of the internals is $$$. Pick a budget and go from there. Rods are nice, as are pistons. A lot of people just use the stock Yota HG, head studs are a good buy too.
What you HAVE to do really depends on the numbers you want to make when you eventually upgrade your boost bits. That being said you COULD spend tens of thousands and put upgraded crank, rods, pistons, valvetrain etc and still only run a few hundred HP, just would be a super reliable overkilled setup ready for any turbo you can throw at it.
Thanks for input Bro, Im not really on a tight budget, I am just going by what others have told me considering the low miles on the engine. I will be putting this car on the track, not a drag car. I dont really want to go huge as in stroker kit etc.. due to being married and wanting to stay that away if you know what I mean. I am fairly new to the whole supra thing so Im kind of at everyones mercy and help with this build. I would like to build a 600 hp engine, but not sure how to get there, Ive been reading forums til my eyes are bleeding trying to learn as much as possible. If I need to upgrade pistons and rods then so be it, thats why Im asking for advice from you supra guru's. As far as turbo's go Im totally open for suggestions because there are alot of options and brands out there and if I can learn from someone elses experience then Im all for it. Thanks again for input.
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I'd say get upgraded ARP fasteners, or at least the head studs. You'll need to change the OEM TTY / stretch bolts anyway.
If you'll be tracking the car hard, pay close attention to cooling mods (FMIC, 2- or 3-row radiator, oil cooler, p/s cooler and lots and lots of ducting) and check out the road-racing sub-forum. Those guys have a lot of very good and helpful tips.
For a turbo kit for the track, a Stage 1 or Stage 2 upgrade from PHR, BL or any of the preferred vendors will be good for you. You'll need race gas to safely and reliably make close to or exactly 600 whp on the Stage 1 and 2 turbines plus the supporting fuelling mods (complete fuel kit) and EMS.
AEM EMS Gen2 (out in AUgust, last I checked), HKS F-Con V-Pro or Motec M800, pick your poison
If you'll be tracking the car hard, pay close attention to cooling mods (FMIC, 2- or 3-row radiator, oil cooler, p/s cooler and lots and lots of ducting) and check out the road-racing sub-forum. Those guys have a lot of very good and helpful tips.
For a turbo kit for the track, a Stage 1 or Stage 2 upgrade from PHR, BL or any of the preferred vendors will be good for you. You'll need race gas to safely and reliably make close to or exactly 600 whp on the Stage 1 and 2 turbines plus the supporting fuelling mods (complete fuel kit) and EMS.
AEM EMS Gen2 (out in AUgust, last I checked), HKS F-Con V-Pro or Motec M800, pick your poison
Thanks, sounds like I have alot of homework and research to do. I wasn't aware of the racing sub, Ill have to check that out. Thanks again brotha.I'd say get upgraded ARP fasteners, or at least the head studs. You'll need to change the OEM TTY / stretch bolts anyway.
If you'll be tracking the car hard, pay close attention to cooling mods (FMIC, 2- or 3-row radiator, oil cooler, p/s cooler and lots and lots of ducting) and check out the road-racing sub-forum. Those guys have a lot of very good and helpful tips.
For a turbo kit for the track, a Stage 1 or Stage 2 upgrade from PHR, BL or any of the preferred vendors will be good for you. You'll need race gas to safely and reliably make close to or exactly 600 whp on the Stage 1 and 2 turbines plus the supporting fuelling mods (complete fuel kit) and EMS.
AEM EMS Gen2 (out in AUgust, last I checked), HKS F-Con V-Pro or Motec M800, pick your poison
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793 Posts
Well if you spun a main bearing then you will probably be taking the whole engine apart to have it line bored to true the journal back up so get some good bearings. Arp fasteners are always a good thing(mains,rods,and head studs). You need to have the machine shop check everything to make sure when you spun the bearing it didn't get a bunch of shavings in the engine and scar anything else up. I don't know your budget but if you say you will be road corse racing you will be putting a lot of abuse on the motor so pistons and rod won't hurt either. The stock internals are good for 700+ but that depends on your tune and up keep and for how long is still subjective. When you say 600hp are you talking just on race gas on the weekends at the track or a 600hp daily driver because that will determine size turbo. Also look into the modified oil pumps from sp sence the car will be seeing a lot of constant higher revs.
This car is not street legal, it will be a track only car so I will want the horsepower constant. This whole supra thing is new to me so I just want to do it right the first time. I dont want to just be adding as I go and wind up doing more damage than good. I want to do it right the first time. This car is just a toy for me so Im in no big rush. I would love to have it today but I would rather do it right and take my time. The horsepower thing is just a number I threw out there. This is going to be a weekend hobby for me. Thanks guys.
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You might want to check out those modified high-flow / high-pressure water pumps too or a Meziere electric water pump which should lessen drag on the engine, helping response. Not sure how it does on Supras but on a lot of Hondas especially for drag racing they say it does wonders in cooling the car after a really hard run down the quarter mile since you can wire it up to run continually even after you shut off the engine and leave like a switch or wire it to the keys accessories position. Service life is like a thousand hours I think.
For a turbo kit, if you have an open budget, check out Boost Logic's compounded turbo kit. 700whp and responsive low-end.
For a turbo kit, if you have an open budget, check out Boost Logic's compounded turbo kit. 700whp and responsive low-end.
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If you spun a bearing you have a lot of work to do before you re-assemble the motor.
Most likely the #3 rod is trashed; there is also a good chance that the crank is damaged to the point that it will need to be re-turned, it is possible that the crank is damaged beyond the point of re-using it (you can weld it and re-grind it.. but I wouldn't).
Remember you MUST MUST MUST throw your stock oil cooler in the trash and buy a new one (yes they are $400, but you CAN NOT resuse it.)
Have your head rebuilt. The valve train needs to come apart anyway so all that metal from the bearing can be cleaned out. While you have the head off, and apart I would recommend building the head.
Get your + 1mm valves, port and polish, dual springs, shimless buckets, and cams. It goes without saying that you should change your valve stem seals.
Stock head gasket is pretty much the best head gasket you can buy.. don't worry about it.
ARP head studs, and ARP main studs.. no brainer.
I would at a bear at LEAST put a set of good rods in it, if not both rods and pistons.
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