Why is your engine pulled? I have to pull mine due to bad seals
You could get crower rods and pistons for 2K or free labor on a clutch/flywheel
You could get crower rods and pistons for 2K or free labor on a clutch/flywheel
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
If you're pulling it out and not already planning a full rebuild I would suggest the following. Not cheap when you add it all up, but well worth it if you plan on keeping the car IMO.
Remove the head, have it rebuilt and ported since a lot of people are having problems with valve seals.
While the head is off the block, pull the pistons / rods and (no need to remove the crank, etc) have the block rehoned and put in some new rings. I wouldn't worry about the main bearings, my friend's motor was rebuilt with over 90k on it and the bearings were like new according to the machine shop.
Balance/blue print injectors
replace 3 small coolant hosts at the back/top of engine bay
replace cluch or upgrade torque converter
Send the turbos out to be rebuilt or throw in some very low mileage ones.
Install EGT if you plan on doing a/f tuning.
Replace pressure tank if you're not on TTC
Replace oil pressure sensor with revised unit
give the radiator an acid bath
Timing belt, tensioner, water pump (duh)
-Mike
Remove the head, have it rebuilt and ported since a lot of people are having problems with valve seals.
While the head is off the block, pull the pistons / rods and (no need to remove the crank, etc) have the block rehoned and put in some new rings. I wouldn't worry about the main bearings, my friend's motor was rebuilt with over 90k on it and the bearings were like new according to the machine shop.
Balance/blue print injectors
replace 3 small coolant hosts at the back/top of engine bay
replace cluch or upgrade torque converter
Send the turbos out to be rebuilt or throw in some very low mileage ones.
Install EGT if you plan on doing a/f tuning.
Replace pressure tank if you're not on TTC
Replace oil pressure sensor with revised unit
give the radiator an acid bath
Timing belt, tensioner, water pump (duh)
-Mike
Originally posted by Pole Position:
<STRONG>Anything I should get done while my engine block is completely removed from the car? I'm currently full BPU.</STRONG>
G
Hmm do u even own a mkiv?
Originally posted by V8THIS:
<STRONG>If you're pulling it out and not already planning a full rebuild I would suggest the following. Not cheap when you add it all up, but well worth it if you plan on keeping the car IMO.
Remove the head, have it rebuilt and ported since a lot of people are having problems with valve seals.
While the head is off the block, pull the pistons / rods and (no need to remove the crank, etc) have the block rehoned and put in some new rings. I wouldn't worry about the main bearings, my friend's motor was rebuilt with over 90k on it and the bearings were like new according to the machine shop.
Balance/blue print injectors
replace 3 small coolant hosts at the back/top of engine bay
replace cluch or upgrade torque converter
Send the turbos out to be rebuilt or throw in some very low mileage ones.
Install EGT if you plan on doing a/f tuning.
Replace pressure tank if you're not on TTC
Replace oil pressure sensor with revised unit
give the radiator an acid bath
Timing belt, tensioner, water pump (duh)
-Mike
[/QB]Originally posted by Pole Position:
[qb]Anything I should get done while my engine block is completely removed from the car? I'm currently full BPU.</STRONG>
3L
What exactly are you trying to say?
-Mike
What exactly are you trying to say?
-Mike
Originally posted by [3L]:
<STRONG>Hmm do u even own a mkiv?
[/QB]Originally posted by V8THIS:
[qb]If you're pulling it out and not already planning a full rebuild I would suggest the following. Not cheap when you add it all up, but well worth it if you plan on keeping the car IMO.
Remove the head, have it rebuilt and ported since a lot of people are having problems with valve seals.
While the head is off the block, pull the pistons / rods and (no need to remove the crank, etc) have the block rehoned and put in some new rings. I wouldn't worry about the main bearings, my friend's motor was rebuilt with over 90k on it and the bearings were like new according to the machine shop.
Balance/blue print injectors
replace 3 small coolant hosts at the back/top of engine bay
replace cluch or upgrade torque converter
Send the turbos out to be rebuilt or throw in some very low mileage ones.
Install EGT if you plan on doing a/f tuning.
Replace pressure tank if you're not on TTC
Replace oil pressure sensor with revised unit
give the radiator an acid bath
Timing belt, tensioner, water pump (duh)
-Mike
[/QB]Originally posted by Pole Position:
[qb]Anything I should get done while my engine block is completely removed from the car? I'm currently full BPU.</STRONG>
If the head is out, should be well under $1000. Not cheap, but consider this, a valve adjustment from the dealer is about $500 and a LOT of people have problems with the valve stem seals. As far as rehoning the block, it depends, if you do all the work, a rehone on a good block is cheap, maybe $100-$200. If you want to just deliver your tired motor and expect it to come back to you like new, that's another story.
-Mike
-Mike
Originally posted by Zerosoul:
<STRONG>damn that sounds expansive..how much to rebuild the head, replace ring and rehone?</STRONG>
Actually, we called crower when me and another list member blew his 2JZ-GTE. According to the tech we spoke to, Crower's rods aren't actually stronger, only lighter. Our OEM rods are actually shotpeened from the factory are extremely tough.....just look at all the 6-700rwhp daily drivers and guys like Paisley and Saad putting down in the ballpark of 900 - 1000 horsepower on them. I wouldn't worry about them unless you spray.
-Mike
You could get crower rods and pistons for 2K or free labor on a clutch/flywheel[/QB][/QUOTE]
-Mike
You could get crower rods and pistons for 2K or free labor on a clutch/flywheel[/QB][/QUOTE]
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
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