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anyone know what size thread tap is needed for the exhaust studs into the head? I thought it was 7/16 but i think its a bit too big. The search tool isnt working either.
Exhaust stud thread tap size
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I have a 7/16 NFT but i think its a hair too big. The thread pitch and such is perfect though. What size is the exhaust stud itself?
The M12x1.5 didnt line up on the threads.
The M12x1.5 didnt line up on the threads.
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i am curious to know the EXACT answer to this as well. What thread and pitch are the stock exhaust manifold studs So 12 x 1.25 is the answer?
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ya if its the M12x1.25 where the hell do ya find it. Napa couldnt get it for me and its a damn oddball size.
But we still need concrete verification if this is in fact the size.
LMK
thanks
But we still need concrete verification if this is in fact the size.
LMK
thanks
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2,179 Posts
I figured it out you need an M10x1.25 for the head, drill bit size if needed is 11/32.
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330 Posts
Hey Spoolin... if you are in Canada try a place called KBC or AVENUE Industrial... I am pretty sure they stock all the metric taps and dies.
I have one sitting on my desk right now and checked it... M10 x 1.25
Cheers,
Bart
I have one sitting on my desk right now and checked it... M10 x 1.25
Cheers,
Bart
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3,842 Posts
pretty sure it's an M12x1.25. If you are replacing a stud because it pulled out, be sure to use a helicoil. Get it right or the remaining options are not pretty.
Using an english stud with a metric car, is OK, it will work, but whoever works on the car after you will curse you, especially if you only do a stud or two, not all of them.
Go to www.mcmastercarr.com and you will have a tap tomorrow morning. They also sell helicoil kits. If you are really in a rush though, most autozones, etc all carry these, prices aren't too bad either. I suggest helicoiling. Cleaning up threads rarely works if they are weak. When tapping be sure to drill the proper pilot hole and use a thick lube (diff oil) when you tap. If you havent tapped before, keep in mind:
drill the hole straight (perp to the head)
-mark the bit so you don't go deeper than you want
(tape, sharpie, etc)
-lube the tap a lot
-be sure you have some way to hold the tap so it is perpendicular to the hole. The tap won't follow the hole if you are doing a shallow tap, so you have to guide it well. Also, don't wobble it or you will have weak threads.
-turn 1/4 turn in, then back off to break the chip. turn 1/4 turn in, then back off to -break the chip. repeat. Backing off means, just back off a little, you will feel the chip snap off.
-clean the lube out, and insert the helicoil or stud.
-follow directions for breaking the helicoil tang off....
and you will be golden
Using an english stud with a metric car, is OK, it will work, but whoever works on the car after you will curse you, especially if you only do a stud or two, not all of them.
Go to www.mcmastercarr.com and you will have a tap tomorrow morning. They also sell helicoil kits. If you are really in a rush though, most autozones, etc all carry these, prices aren't too bad either. I suggest helicoiling. Cleaning up threads rarely works if they are weak. When tapping be sure to drill the proper pilot hole and use a thick lube (diff oil) when you tap. If you havent tapped before, keep in mind:
drill the hole straight (perp to the head)
-mark the bit so you don't go deeper than you want
(tape, sharpie, etc)-lube the tap a lot
-be sure you have some way to hold the tap so it is perpendicular to the hole. The tap won't follow the hole if you are doing a shallow tap, so you have to guide it well. Also, don't wobble it or you will have weak threads.
-turn 1/4 turn in, then back off to break the chip. turn 1/4 turn in, then back off to -break the chip. repeat. Backing off means, just back off a little, you will feel the chip snap off.
-clean the lube out, and insert the helicoil or stud.
-follow directions for breaking the helicoil tang off....
and you will be golden
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7,853 Posts
oh i agree98mkiv said:pretty sure it's an M12x1.25. If you are replacing a stud because it pulled out, be sure to use a helicoil. Get it right or the remaining options are not pretty.
Using an english stud with a metric car, is OK, it will work, but whoever works on the car after you will curse you, especially if you only do a stud or two, not all of them.
Go to www.mcmastercarr.com and you will have a tap tomorrow morning. They also sell helicoil kits. If you are really in a rush though, most autozones, etc all carry these, prices aren't too bad either. I suggest helicoiling. Cleaning up threads rarely works if they are weak. When tapping be sure to drill the proper pilot hole and use a thick lube (diff oil) when you tap. If you havent tapped before, keep in mind:
drill the hole straight (perp to the head)
-mark the bit so you don't go deeper than you want
-lube the tap a lot
-be sure you have some way to hold the tap so it is perpendicular to the hole. The tap won't follow the hole if you are doing a shallow tap, so you have to guide it well. Also, don't wobble it or you will have weak threads.
-turn 1/4 turn in, then back off to break the chip. turn 1/4 turn in, then back off to -break the chip. repeat. Backing off means, just back off a little, you will feel the chip snap off.
-clean the lube out, and insert the helicoil or stud.
-follow directions for breaking the helicoil tang off....
and you will be golden
but no I did all the studs
For some reason the 7m head tend to lose the oem studs and we end up tapping the original back in. Bigaaron from d
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2,179 Posts
stock size on the 2j is just like the mk3, the 7/16 ones are upgrades. Only helicoil when you need to since you have to increase the size a little.
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Soo is it M12x1.25 or M10x1.25 for the exhaust manifold studs?
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Sweet, thanks
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