The filter itself looked ok, the plastic holding the filter was feeling flimsy but that could be age and heat more than fuel composition.
those are OEM baskets. It is a plastic filter. The top you see in the picture is a brass ring. They are interference fit into the fuel injector. Most injector cleaning places replace those as part of their cleaning service. I replace them anytime i pull injectors to prevent any issues especially on known higher mileage vehicles.Someone asked about the injector baskets being stainless. I took about 6 pictures with an iPhone 12's macro setting and this was the best I could do. They're definitely a glossy silver mesh, that plainly appears to the eye to be stainless steel. I assume these are original as everything else is on this girl. The apples were all I had handy to safely hold an injector on its end. If you zoom in you'll catch a small area where the gloss is picked up by the camera, and you'll also see a seam, which is indicative of the woven metal mesh, versus a plastic basket would likely be molded easily as a single piece and no need for a seam. Interested in opinions or other comparisons, but that's what it appears in person.
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Looks so nice. There are two things I hate that I’ve done to my car. One of them is the hole I burned in my floor when trying to TIG weld the brackets for the anti-submarine belts. I patched with more welding, enlarged and patched with a panel. The hole got bigger and bigger. I finally fiberglassed another panel in place, and yes, it looks like what you described as not wanting. Finally went ahead and installed the carpet, the carpet keeping the dash out. The other thing is (are) the heater ducts that I didn’t properly seal, so the dash is “in” but not bolted down.OK, it's been a busy month, so the nasty, dirty job of fiberglasing the primed battery tray kept getting pushed off. Then it went from too cold to record temps over 100 degrees. Finally ran out of excuses today and got it done. Here's the prep stuff - precut 4 layers of 6oz fiberglas, laid out the tools, and prepped the surfaces with a final cleaning as it's going to cure fast at 80 degrees:
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I probably reviewed about 20 YouTube videos for ideas on holding the wet fiberglas up against gravity. A guy used double stick tape on a vertical surface which gave me an idea to use small magnets. However, I didn't want a "lumpy" look like looking up at fiberglas insulation, so I first did one edge as shown below. Used a leftover chunk of cutting board from a speaker mounting project with waxed paper wrapped over the business end, then a cardboard tube with a slot in it to hold that up against the corner. On removal, that edge was tabbed in place after 20 minutes. If you look closely by the "LR" you will see some magnets holding the dry fiberglas just to orient it correctly, and close to the wetted edge you'll see several to keep the fiberglas tight against the metal, though they're still on dry cloth.
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Did the same on the forward edge, then was able to pull the fiberglas mat drum tight (ish) and hold it with the magnets while I dabbed like Picasso with the resin to soak it. Here, it's dry, and you can still see some magnets in place that would be lumps if I left them. I was able to easily take pliers and snap them out of the resin. Then I finished with 3 more layers and it's out there drying now - plenty strong and also weather sealing the engine bay properly as originally intended. I may drill a drain hole in the lowest spot after I caulk some from the top, and paint it red, but I'm pleased with the result. Will post up when it's painted, which will be satisfying to do.
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They are easy peasy...Figgie,
Thanks for the info. How hard are they to swap, and do you have a link for the stainless baskets? I'd love to do that before all is assembled and leverage off your knowledge base!! TIA.