Supra Forums banner
201 - 218 of 218 Posts

·
Hardcore Night Warrior
Joined
·
2,670 Posts
@figgie Are the ethanols in the modern gas eating away at the OEM plastic baskets? Just curious.
 
  • Like
Reactions: figgie

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,710 Posts
@figgie Are the ethanols in the modern gas eating away at the OEM plastic baskets? Just curious.
The filter itself looked ok, the plastic holding the filter was feeling flimsy but that could be age and heat more than fuel composition.

One important part though is that the ss filters might be more course than the plastic oem filter. If the oem filter is doing its job, the injector filters are the last line of defense against injector clogs.

Bosch of course now a days want 100% 35 micron filtration and 85% 5 micron for filtered fuel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: chevydude

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
Discussion Starter · #203 ·
OK, it's been a busy month, so the nasty, dirty job of fiberglasing the primed battery tray kept getting pushed off. Then it went from too cold to record temps over 100 degrees. Finally ran out of excuses today and got it done. Here's the prep stuff - precut 4 layers of 6oz fiberglas, laid out the tools, and prepped the surfaces with a final cleaning as it's going to cure fast at 80 degrees:

262158


I probably reviewed about 20 YouTube videos for ideas on holding the wet fiberglas up against gravity. A guy used double stick tape on a vertical surface which gave me an idea to use small magnets. However, I didn't want a "lumpy" look like looking up at fiberglas insulation, so I first did one edge as shown below. Used a leftover chunk of cutting board from a speaker mounting project with waxed paper wrapped over the business end, then a cardboard tube with a slot in it to hold that up against the corner. On removal, that edge was tabbed in place after 20 minutes. If you look closely by the "LR" you will see some magnets holding the dry fiberglas just to orient it correctly, and close to the wetted edge you'll see several to keep the fiberglas tight against the metal, though they're still on dry cloth.

262161


Did the same on the forward edge, then was able to pull the fiberglas mat drum tight (ish) and hold it with the magnets while I dabbed like Picasso with the resin to soak it. Here, it's dry, and you can still see some magnets in place that would be lumps if I left them. I was able to easily take pliers and snap them out of the resin. Then I finished with 3 more layers and it's out there drying now - plenty strong and also weather sealing the engine bay properly as originally intended. I may drill a drain hole in the lowest spot after I caulk some from the top, and paint it red, but I'm pleased with the result. Will post up when it's painted, which will be satisfying to do.

262162
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
Discussion Starter · #204 ·
Someone asked about the injector baskets being stainless. I took about 6 pictures with an iPhone 12's macro setting and this was the best I could do. They're definitely a glossy silver mesh, that plainly appears to the eye to be stainless steel. I assume these are original as everything else is on this girl. The apples were all I had handy to safely hold an injector on its end. If you zoom in you'll catch a small area where the gloss is picked up by the camera, and you'll also see a seam, which is indicative of the woven metal mesh, versus a plastic basket would likely be molded easily as a single piece and no need for a seam. Interested in opinions or other comparisons, but that's what it appears in person.

262163
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,602 Posts
Thanks for the detail on the fiber glassing! That looks like a great technique to patch up the holes in my rusted spare tire well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,710 Posts
Someone asked about the injector baskets being stainless. I took about 6 pictures with an iPhone 12's macro setting and this was the best I could do. They're definitely a glossy silver mesh, that plainly appears to the eye to be stainless steel. I assume these are original as everything else is on this girl. The apples were all I had handy to safely hold an injector on its end. If you zoom in you'll catch a small area where the gloss is picked up by the camera, and you'll also see a seam, which is indicative of the woven metal mesh, versus a plastic basket would likely be molded easily as a single piece and no need for a seam. Interested in opinions or other comparisons, but that's what it appears in person.

View attachment 262163
those are OEM baskets. It is a plastic filter. The top you see in the picture is a brass ring. They are interference fit into the fuel injector. Most injector cleaning places replace those as part of their cleaning service. I replace them anytime i pull injectors to prevent any issues especially on known higher mileage vehicles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
OK, it's been a busy month, so the nasty, dirty job of fiberglasing the primed battery tray kept getting pushed off. Then it went from too cold to record temps over 100 degrees. Finally ran out of excuses today and got it done. Here's the prep stuff - precut 4 layers of 6oz fiberglas, laid out the tools, and prepped the surfaces with a final cleaning as it's going to cure fast at 80 degrees:

View attachment 262158

I probably reviewed about 20 YouTube videos for ideas on holding the wet fiberglas up against gravity. A guy used double stick tape on a vertical surface which gave me an idea to use small magnets. However, I didn't want a "lumpy" look like looking up at fiberglas insulation, so I first did one edge as shown below. Used a leftover chunk of cutting board from a speaker mounting project with waxed paper wrapped over the business end, then a cardboard tube with a slot in it to hold that up against the corner. On removal, that edge was tabbed in place after 20 minutes. If you look closely by the "LR" you will see some magnets holding the dry fiberglas just to orient it correctly, and close to the wetted edge you'll see several to keep the fiberglas tight against the metal, though they're still on dry cloth.

View attachment 262161

Did the same on the forward edge, then was able to pull the fiberglas mat drum tight (ish) and hold it with the magnets while I dabbed like Picasso with the resin to soak it. Here, it's dry, and you can still see some magnets in place that would be lumps if I left them. I was able to easily take pliers and snap them out of the resin. Then I finished with 3 more layers and it's out there drying now - plenty strong and also weather sealing the engine bay properly as originally intended. I may drill a drain hole in the lowest spot after I caulk some from the top, and paint it red, but I'm pleased with the result. Will post up when it's painted, which will be satisfying to do.

View attachment 262162
Looks so nice. There are two things I hate that I’ve done to my car. One of them is the hole I burned in my floor when trying to TIG weld the brackets for the anti-submarine belts. I patched with more welding, enlarged and patched with a panel. The hole got bigger and bigger. I finally fiberglassed another panel in place, and yes, it looks like what you described as not wanting. Finally went ahead and installed the carpet, the carpet keeping the dash out. The other thing is (are) the heater ducts that I didn’t properly seal, so the dash is “in” but not bolted down.

Good work on the fiberglass job. I’m sure the pictures will be exciting to post. I’m envious :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
Discussion Starter · #208 ·
Figgie,

Thanks for the info. How hard are they to swap, and do you have a link for the stainless baskets? I'd love to do that before all is assembled and leverage off your knowledge base!! TIA.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,710 Posts
Figgie,

Thanks for the info. How hard are they to swap, and do you have a link for the stainless baskets? I'd love to do that before all is assembled and leverage off your knowledge base!! TIA.
They are easy peasy...

just need a #5 screw from your favorite hardware store. Screw it in to the basket until it bites then a vice grip and pull. Out it comes. There are special tools for this on amazon but the #5 screw works. :)

on the filters, they only sell them in packs of 25 and 50 on both ebay and amazon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
Discussion Starter · #210 ·
Figgie,

Perfect, I think I can handle that! This is a very good idea, as I have removed and cleaned the fuel tank, and it's getting a new fuel pump, prefilter and inline fuel filter. I'm also going to blow the fuel lines out with air as they've been open for over a year now. Somewhere, somehow in all that you just KNOW there will be some crud getting loose in the system and new injector baskets are smart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
Discussion Starter · #211 ·
Well, got the fiberglas repair painted and now I will clean out the engine bay and turn back to the engine in the empty bay before pushing the car in.

262255
262256


From the bottom. Embarrassed at the runs, but this gets completely covered by the black plastic fender liner and I just wanted it physically protected. Done and moving on. 4 layers of fiberglas atop epoxy primer, atop Ospho rust converter ,and now it's red again. Next.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
very good work on the battery tray!

sorry off topic but did you end up using the braided AN hose for your oil pump?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
Discussion Starter · #213 ·
Yes, I used the DriftMotion hose to eliminate the restrictive factory banjo fitting. I found a torque setting and used thread locker. Had to tap the interference area of the oil pan with a hammer - very minor touching. You'll need an assistant to hold the hose from twisting at the proper torque. Looks solid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
Discussion Starter · #214 ·
So tonight I put the Supra back on four tires (had LF off to work on battery tray) and cleared out the garage stall. So it's engineless and ready to be pulled out of the trees by it's stable mate - our trusty 1993 Toyota LandCruiser which we bought new in 1992. I plan to clean the engine bay in the driveway before pulling it into the garage. The engine is still not much more than a block, but this will get me motivated. Going to give the whole body shell a cleaning as well. Woohoo!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
Discussion Starter · #215 ·
And today, we pulled the shell out of the side yard and I Simple Green'd the engine bay and washed the car. It's now properly situated for a project car back on the front burner in the 3rd stall. Yesterday an oil pressure adapter arrived that will let me keep the factory oil pressure guage, but also adds an NPT outlet so I can add a dedicated gage as is my preference on an old car. I want to see for myself the oil pressure, vs factory gages' notoriously inaccurate readings.

We dragged it around the block at my son's suggestion as one brake felt like it was hanging up to him as we talked on our phones from me in the towing vehicle to him in the Supra. It was a good idea as the caliper seemed to let go. With no engine/trans/diff/fuel tank, we were able to muscle it over the lip up into the garage without resorting to the come-a-long hand winch. So, the rebuilt engine and it's destination are now about 4 feet apart:

262350


262351



Thanks to getting motivated by some of the lads in the Gen IV "scratched crank pin" thread, I'm feeling motivated again. Need to consult my notes to see exactly where I left off. Now is not the time to forget I have not properly put sealant under the valve cover/#1 journal interfaces and need to seal the oil pan as well. That's what notes are for!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
Discussion Starter · #218 ·
So, the injector baskets would not come out of my cleaned injectors. I clamped the injector into my bench vise and used a slide hammer that was perfectly sized. Lots of hits resulted in a curl of metal coming out. So I bailed on doing this. However for forum knowledge to give back to Figgie who's put effort into this aspect of our cars, I dug a little deeper.

My spare set look identical and are likely factory and they came out of a Supra in the You-Pull. I'll have to check the year - I have that. I easily popped a basket out in a single hit on these. So I looked at them more closely and they have the same Toyota Part number on them but some subtle differences. On my cleaned injectors (left in photo below), the metal tips have a less tapered final edge, and the basket edge is thinner and appears more of a precision fit - possibly bonded in. The spares have a noticable taper, plus the basket tops are thicker like the baskets Figgie got me. I think Figgie's going to see what he finds and start another thread on injector baskets so we develop some forum knowledge on this:

262485


262486
 
201 - 218 of 218 Posts
Top