Supra Forums banner
221 - 240 of 298 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #222 ·
Thank you. Random bit of information: With brand new bearings throughout, honed cylinders and new rings and no sparkplugs, it took 17lbs/ft to turn the engine using the crank bolt. That's with assembly grease everywhere. Wow installing the valve covers was scary. No way those phillips screws will support the FSM's torque. I was using a safe beam torque wrench with dry threads and the torque was not responding. So I stopped and simply did them by feel. Don't use that torque setting - you'll strip the threads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #223 ·
So, I got the exhaust manifold on and the water pipe that circles the engine going around the rear as well as the heat shields. A word on the exhaust manifold studs. Two of mine had damaged threads in the head, and I cleaned them up when I built the head. The threads were not damaged all the way in, indicating someone applied torque to the stud and was able to distort a couple rows of threads by starting to pull them out of the block. In aluminum, you must be sure a stud is all the way bottomed out before pulling on it with the nut or this damage is easy to do. It is worth cautioning folks when you reinstall these studs to double nut them so you can screw the studs in, and be sure they are seated all the way into the head. Some exhaust studs (like my LandCruiser) have a torx or other tip so you can screw the in. These don't. A well known and skilled Supra build on YouTube experienced damage to these threads, so these heads must be susceptible to this. I also wire wheeled the studs, inserted them into the head dry, then used anti-sieze on the nuts so there would be less twisting force on the studs as these bolts are an anti-loosen type that has a lot of install friction. And you don't want to be twisting the studs in the aluminum, only pulling on them with all the threads fully engaged so they can handle the pulling on install torque, and through their operational life.

I also discovered this evening my engine gasket kit does not include the distributor O ring and i detest leaking oil. Mine is hard as a rock, so I ordered one from the dealer and am delayed for that. I also should have checked the alternator's brushes to see if I need new ones before installing it. So, I'll use the down time to check on that and do some other menial tasks like blowing the fuel lines clear and maybe bleeding the brakes if I can find an assistant for a half hour.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #224 ·
Got the distributor O ring and it looks like my kit came with an O ring that is too small. Once I got the correct Toyota one, I realized there is one in the kit that may have been intended for this use, but I judged it too small last week and this comparison shows I was correct:

263249


I will start a thread on the correct measurement of the O ring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
So weather still too cold to fix the tray. I cleaned the fuel injectors with a clever technique where you epoxy an aerosol can of cleaner to a tire valve stem (I know..) and then connect a battery to each injector with alligator clips to open the pintle valve and shoot cleaner through them. Worked like a charm. Here's my harmonic balancer all painted up with easy to see lines for when I do the timing gun on it:

Before: The rubber bits were so hard I had to use wire cutters to split them for removal and they felt like hard brittle plastic.

View attachment 261288

Now, with fresh seals, cleaned inside and out and their cylinder number permanently engraved:

View attachment 261289

Speaking of injectors

are we able to run the slightly newer Cressida green bodied injectors same flow rate etc but in high OHM vs low
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #226 ·
I'm not sure what it would take. I switched my Quattro to high impedence using a kit that included the correct resistors, wiring pigtails, etc. It was plug and play and I did it as the original style were fast becoming unavailable. Perhaps there's something similar available for the Supra.
 

·
90T
Joined
·
861 Posts
You would need to bypass the resistor block with a shorting block and then it would work fine with high impedance injectors. The low impedance injectors are not peak and hold so nothing will be lost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #228 · (Edited)
So, got the fuel return line, oil blanking plate and a few other things done. I've stopped at the "install vacuum blocks/lines" step under the intake. I need a better diagram so I'll read the other sections in the FSM to see what I can find. I also got the motor mounts installed with new rubber section, and painted the two structural parts. So I have a tip on the motor mounts. Mark them and take photos before you take them apart. I actually lost track of how they go together as the 3 parts of each will literally will go together several different ways. Rescued by a notch I put in each while disassembling them, I got them together correctly only after realizing they'll go together so many ways.

Edit - look closely at the lowermost mount where the angled bracket meets the other "bowl" shaped part and you'll see a subtle notch/scribe from a hacksaw. Let your eyes drift left to the sharp edge of the bowl and you'll see a notch in the sharp edge in line with it, indicating how I found the part assembled before taking it apart. I habitually do this when I'm planning to refinish as a sharpie mark will disappear. I'd forgotten about it until I was reassembling and realized all the ways they'll go together.

263342
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #229 ·
I've been muddling my way through the vacuum lines on and around the intake. I also had trouble sourcing 1/8" vacuum line which I now have on hand. Wasted some time deciding the former owner had changed the arrangement of the hoses on the VSV which was weird as the car is very original and untouched. Turned out the engine has not just ONE item labeled VSV, but actually THREE of them in the same area. Facepalm. I had to put things back the way I found them, locate the other VSV and install that.

This section of assembly has been crazy inefficient. The factory manual was never really intended as a guide A-Z on building a 7M like I am. It's for a tech removing the head and putting it back on, or other things that assume the rest of the engine is still intact. So I've had to figure out where one operation begins and ends and then double check that I'm not forgetting to install something. And there are plenty of "gotchas" like a ground wire that goes on an intake bolt which I don't have as the wiring harness is up in the attic. So I have to make a note "don't forget this step later when the engine's in the car" and the like. Happily the pile is much smaller and I'm thinking now of setting up a 2nd table and kinda laying out the remaining bits to help me visualize what needs to NOT be overlooked. I spent an hour looking for that fuel support under the intake, only to realize I had accidentally hooked it with some duplicate hoses when I moved them into the "spares" box.. Argh..
 

·
Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
375 Posts
I had so much trouble with my Tweakd wiring harness that I had the upper intake off five or six times. Those problems aside, I can't imagine doing the harness while the engine is in the car. There is some real tricky routing and it wasn't intuitive. Perhaps it isn't so with an old loom that was on the car before... as in things will fall into place naturally. Mine did not. I definitely recommend putting the harness on before install the drivetrain in the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #231 ·
That's a good tip. Probably wise to get the harness down and start inserting it at this point. Much easier to simply tie it up with tape and work around it on the stand, than deal with routing it. Thanks.
 

·
90T
Joined
·
861 Posts
Yes, the standard procedure is to remove the harness at the ECU and pull it through the firewall when removing the engine leaving everything attached on the engine. The loom wiring through the intake is definitely tricky as there are many branches that go though the various runners.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,808 Posts
On the harness routing, 1/2 nylon rope available at most hardware store. It lays and bends like a real harness to give you an idea of routing and design.

This is for my routing for the harness for my supra. It is for the 7mgte motor, stanalone and pdm.

The long branch you see on top right is for power from a PDM. The other long branch is for the dbw throttle.

It accounts for all the sensors and their placement. This was done with all sensors in their place, engine in the car and the standalone mounted in its final place. This of course is cheaper than using real wire (20ish dollars for 100ft at the HD).

Gesture Art Slope Electric blue Road surface
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #234 ·
Thanks. Yeah, I see the wisdom of doing this while it's in the stand as I slowly add more sensors and see more and more plugs and things that will be hidden/tougher to access. Figgie - you should rent that harness "jig" out!! No progress tonight as it was an impromptu date night. I had to move the Vanagon to get to something, so we rolled out in our 1987 VW Vanagon. Someday soon, they'll look great next to each other as samples of late 80's motoring greatness:
263455
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #235 ·
Well, I got all the vacuum hoses figured out with help from the forum. Wow. The 3 items all named "VSV" was a frustration and I think the prior owner of the donor head/intake had messed things up, which led me astray. Once I got them all correctly installed today, I pulled and replaced them all one at a time with fresh hose. Just a few pieces remain. I took a swag and 15 feet of bulk line seemed enough. I think it's more like 20 feet for the 1/8" size to replace everything, including the little heater control hoses and cruise control. I put white paint marks on each one as I replace them and as they were confirmed by photos and diagrams. Truly a pain to do.

Then I installed the distributor, spark plugs and the vacuum chamber. Be advised, that thing will fit on backwards just fine. And then it will make your vacuum hose project just THAT much more confusing. Argh. The yellow tape identifying VSV 1,2,3 was a big help.

263657
 

·
Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
375 Posts
Well, I got all the vacuum hoses figured out with help from the forum. Wow. The 3 items all named "VSV" was a frustration and I think the prior owner of the donor head/intake had messed things up, which led me astray. Once I got them all correctly installed today, I pulled and replaced them all one at a time with fresh hose. Just a few pieces remain. I took a swag and 15 feet of bulk line seemed enough. I think it's more like 20 feet for the 1/8" size to replace everything, including the little heater control hoses and cruise control. I put white paint marks on each one as I replace them and as they were confirmed by photos and diagrams. Truly a pain to do.

Then I installed the distributor, spark plugs and the vacuum chamber. Be advised, that thing will fit on backwards just fine. And then it will make your vacuum hose project just THAT much more confusing. Argh. The yellow tape identifying VSV 1,2,3 was a big help.

View attachment 263657
I think one of the three is named VTV, but yes, very confusing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #237 ·
So it will be a week of waiting and getting some other stuff done on the engine. I've ordered the remaining coolant hoses and a TPS, as well as those large hose clamp wire affairs that hold the rubber intake tubing in place. Mine are corroded and while I'm just building a driver, the engine itself is going to look pretty sweet. I put the spark plug wires on and the fit is not so hot with a lot of excess. I still have that black plastic distributor cover, so I'll hopefully find a way to gather some of the excess in there. The list of tasks is getting shorter, and the pile of parts is reduced to about 10% or so. I need to focus some time on the rear of the car, getting the new fuel pump in the cleaned tank, and putting the tank back up with a fresh filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #238 ·
I got the engine harness out of the attic after an hour of rising panic as I'd put it in a black trash bag to ensure it was not kinked. Could not find it - a bit freaky. Anyhow, slowly stretched it out on the floor on a warm day. Then gently laid it atop the intake and zip tied it in place to keep it from having any strain. Got all the sensor wires in place, then secured it with the factory plastic holders. After that, I cleaned each connector with Contact Cleaner, then sprayed them out with compressed air. I am a bit puzzled with the section that drops down through the runners as a bulky wire bundle. I'm not sure where the bundle secures. It has a factory black plastic ring on the bundle but there is no little metal tongue to hang it on, making me nervous I will later realize the bundle was supposed to go rearward, or forward when I discover a sensor won't reach once the engine's in the car. Anyone have a picture or wiring diagram of the intake side of the engine. A picture would have to be from down low shooting upwards to reveal where the bundle is secured.

I also got the TPS for $75 from AutoZone the nexr morning. Bought additional vacuum hose - ran out. Bought some water line for those smaller coolant hoses, and something for the PCV short bits on that funny 3 legged metal tube that sits across the valve covers. Szdly the engine is getting uglier each day as I hang more things on it, cover the valve covers, and it has sprouted forests of vacuum lines. ;argh....
 

·
Registered
Toyota Supra Turbo 7M-GTE with R154 5-speed
Joined
·
375 Posts
I got the engine harness out of the attic after an hour of rising panic as I'd put it in a black trash bag to ensure it was not kinked. Could not find it - a bit freaky. Anyhow, slowly stretched it out on the floor on a warm day. Then gently laid it atop the intake and zip tied it in place to keep it from having any strain. Got all the sensor wires in place, then secured it with the factory plastic holders. After that, I cleaned each connector with Contact Cleaner, then sprayed them out with compressed air. I am a bit puzzled with the section that drops down through the runners as a bulky wire bundle. I'm not sure where the bundle secures. It has a factory black plastic ring on the bundle but there is no little metal tongue to hang it on, making me nervous I will later realize the bundle was supposed to go rearward, or forward when I discover a sensor won't reach once the engine's in the car. Anyone have a picture or wiring diagram of the intake side of the engine. A picture would have to be from down low shooting upwards to reveal where the bundle is secured.

I also got the TPS for $75 from AutoZone the nexr morning. Bought additional vacuum hose - ran out. Bought some water line for those smaller coolant hoses, and something for the PCV short bits on that funny 3 legged metal tube that sits across the valve covers. Szdly the engine is getting uglier each day as I hang more things on it, cover the valve covers, and it has sprouted forests of vacuum lines. ;argh....
It’s hard to keep it pretty. Pictures of my harness wouldn’t help as Tweak’d finally admitted that my harness wasn’t built to my spec. I did notice that their site now has a very comprehensive list of questions that should eliminate that from happening to others.

I actually thought their (Tweak’d) harness looked pretty nice, but it got uglier with each new issue it had.

263686


In the end, after about six tries of removing the upper intake, everything pretty much lined up. I think only one sensor on the water (thermostat) housing was stressed. There were no factory clips on the intake side, so I just adjusted back and forth until everything fit. I would expect a harness that came off after years of being there would fall into place much easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
and something for the PCV short bits on that funny 3 legged metal tube that sits across the valve covers
I highly recommend buying some Viton hose for that. In my experience, even the best fuel-rated hose turns hard and brittle after a year in that spot. My Viton pieces are still soft many years later.
 
221 - 240 of 298 Posts
Top