When I did my refresh a while back I could not find large Viton hoses and even the small ones had thin walls not generally suitable for vacuum. Can you tell us your source?
I held off on responding because I didn't recognize any of that Now I understand that's how it looked originally.Allright! The wiring harness is on the engine and everything on the left side of the engine is connected. All the vacuum lines on the entire engine are also new, so if the thing won't start I won't be holding my head in my hands wondering which hose is buried and leaking under there. I got some help from the forum confirming where the thick wire bundle drops through the intakes, and next I'll get the other side's wires connected. Much simpler on that side as mfrs try not to put things near the exhaust manifold when they have a choice. So that should be 10 minutes, and if I can't sleep I'm going back out...
Here's a reference photo if it helps others one day. My notes are removed and that VSV hanging from its vacuum lines is now zip tied high up out of sight. Could not find where it's bracket bolted on. The brown connector halfway visible straight to the right (rearward) of the motor mount had me scratching my head. Nothing on the lower fender. Nothing on the bottom of the firewall. No place left to connect it to a sensor within reach. Finally, I realized the starter will be there in a week or so, and went to look - yep, there's a brown connector on it.
View attachment 263766
Wow! So much great information. Big help to me as I eliminate my AFM (among other things) and attempt to get running on an aftermarket, largely unknown ECU. Hopefully by eliminating the OEM ECU I’m also eliminating some of the nuances that will keep my car from firing. I don’t want to hijack @IdahoDoug’s build thread, but acknowledge your continued contribution… not just to him, but others, as well. Lurkers learn a lot from posts like this, and one day we have to deliver . Thank you.when you do startup keep in mind the 7mge uses an airflow meter. it needs to be hooked up, its on the air filter housing. these are old school mechanical meters, there is a moving metal door that swings against a spring. if you don't have all the intake pipe hooked up (everything, no leaks, clamps tight) you will run into problems.
in fact, the fuel pump will not turn on unless the afm is hooked up and swung open 1/4 inch. fact you can prime the fuel system / check for leaks by:
1. key on, run position
2. push the afm flapper open with your finger
3. listen for the relay to click (its under the hood by the passenger strut tower) and fuel sounds to whoosh around (remember engine is off for this test)
super common rookie ge mistake....try cranking it over without any air hoses connected. trips a check engine light and makes super erratic fuel delivery.
priority of sensors that need to work perfect for ge to run / idle
cps is known for shit brittle wiring. in your region, i would be worried about salt corrosion (not sure how far from coast you are but constant 50-70 degrees + humidity is lots of corrosion) . anyway cps connector sits on hot size and has issues. if you get no spark (and no tach needle movement) id wiggle / clean that.
afm has a mechanical trace board inside. as the flapper door opens up the resistance changes. there is a black cover that is siliconed on and the guts are under there. they are known to have flat spots when they go out...aka a certain afm range where it stops working.
but all this old toyota stuff is long lasting and Id say there is a good chance it fires up because your checking things/ putting a new pump in etc.