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Discussion Starter · #161 ·
Well, all set to button up the oil pump as I got the Toyota O ring for the strainer intake. Then I realized 6 months ago I ordered the wrong DriftMotion replacement oil line to replace the factory banjo fitting. Argh. They're kind enough to refund me as I have not even taken the plastic caps off it and I ordered the correct one. Should be here before long.

The bonus is this delay caused me to refinish the valve covers. So I stripped them today, cleaned and scrubbed them, and the primer is now drying. I'll get the silver coats on it before I go to bed. Here's the primer:

259737
 

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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
I used Aircraft Stripper which allowed me to have them in bare aluminum in 15 minutes flat. Rinse, dry and a shot of brake cleaner and ready to spray. Ironically the label says in fine print "Do not use on aircraft." I swear...
 

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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
Wow. I don't even know where to begin. These were tired and haggard with about 10% of the lettering paint and red paint gone and stains and about 10% of the silver paint also off. I can't believe what 3 hours did. The key was using a medical syringe. Which was kinda funny because I couldn't BUY one at my local pharmacy. They're regulated for nice honest folks like me so we can't have them. But in major cities across the USA they hand these out on the streets. Great leadership.

Anyhow, they turned out sweet. Can't wait to bolt them on:

259764
 

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^Wire loom mount got sprayed too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Ding ding!!! Winner. Yes, only one of those two holes is threaded, so for fun I made the unused "Dot" red along with the stripes. You're sitting there with a bunch of red paint in a syringe, so why not, eh? So, today I got the head back on and torqued it in 4 steps to 72lbs-ft. I took pains to clean the block threads, then properly oiled them. I also have a tip. The washers have an edge on their circumference on one side. I tried lapping one that I used for an experiment and the metal is crazy hard carbon steel. I was thinking about lapping them all perfectly flat to maximize the surface area. Anyhow, the edges are all up on my install as that edge will provide a final torque number that includes the super hard washer being in tension. Then over time it will dig that edge into the aluminum as the head moves from heat cycles and some tension may be lost. It could be I stumbled on the reason there have been head/bolt tension issues and I was going to do an experiment but ran out of time. So, point those edges up away from the head unless someone has better input than this. Here's the head in place:
259823



And of course a beauty shot with the valve covers just temporarily on gently with the seals in place to keep dirt out. I'm tired of bagging the engine every evening to keep it clean. So tip on the valve cover screws when you get new rubber cushioned washers. The rubber is hard as a rock so they won't come off the screw. Put the washer in a vice held by its edges such that you can use a screwdriver to push against the threaded tip of the screw and apply some force. Then use a screwdriver gun to "unscrew" it with the screwdriver prying helping to encourage the threads to bite and unscrew it from the hard plastic. The new ones just slipped right on:
259824


Oh man that thing is looking so beautiful! I just realized I bagged the engine out of habit as I had to pull it back for the photo. Heh....

EDIT: And wow - a bit of Supra history in the background there. See the upside down "Toyota Parking Only" sign? That is from when my wife had her new Gen 3 Supra back in the late 80s! I just noted that in the picture - too funny.
 

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I like the tiny touch of paint idea.

Paint in a syringe? Your process sounds a hell of a lot simpler, easier, and quicker than taping off, razor blading, and spray painting like me. Did you have engine paint you got in a can (not spray can), then just used a syringe to fill in the text with paint?

It's been forever since talking about EGRs and seeing them, but you're keeping the EGR cooler? You're still going to use the EGR? This looks vaguely familiar :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 · (Edited)
Yes, it was crazy easy - at least for our valve covers which are recessed graphics perfect for this. You can find the guy's demo searching for valve covers and syringe paint I bet. One thing I learned was you can't suck the paint up with the needle. Some quirk of physics. But you can push it back out in a controlled fashion. You'll need a bigger one, not the smallest. So I used the tiny bottles of testor enamel available in hobby shops as they are oil based and pretty tough - similar in composition to concrete floor paint, etc, they dry extremely hard and glossy. Simple enamel is tough and temp resistant. For the silver overall paint I used ceramic engine paint in a rattle can. It has a primer, then the silver, then a clear coat. I bought all 3 and used them as directed with 3 coats of each.

Yes, on the EGR I'm going to keep the system intact just because I'm a stock OEM guy. I didn't research how to eliminate it but I don't want to see a check engine light one day and wonder if I should have left the system intact. Nothing more frustrating than having a car you're proud of with a CEL light on it you know? And I'm not looking for max power, etc.
 

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Testors paint, that would explain why it's rich in pigment, while settled flat and smooth! From which manufacturer is the silver and clear from? I've learned over time that prep, technique,and quality of paint make it better and easier hence my questions. I suppose you can throw in tools in that three bit piece too.

Yeah, I know what you mean about sweat equity and something still going wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 ·
So the silver overall paint is Dupli-Color Engine Enamel with ceramic. You will find they make a primer, the silver (and other colors) and the clear all in this same line - intended for the heat of direct application to an engine block. (Not exhaust, tho..). I wanted the color to be as stock as possible. I also used their Satin Black on the engine block itself after stripping it with Naval Jelly and then pressure washing it. It's a sickness, I know....:cool:
 

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Thanks for the info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 ·
Well, it's not much, but while I'm waiting for the hose to come from the folks at Drift Motion, I've spent some time on a few cosmetic items. On was a pulley that had lost some paint, and my harmonic balancer, which looked like it spent some time at the bottom of the sea. I wire brushed it, naval jelley'd it, wire brushed it again and jelly'd it again. Then I painted it and put some yellow enamel in the timing notch so I won't be hunting for that on the big startup day:

260063
 

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if I were you, purchase the ATI and call it.
The rubber portion on most of the OEM dampers is long gone past the rubber days into something more brittle (ie no dampening and could delaminate).
 

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Ding ding!!! Winner. Yes, only one of those two holes is threaded, so for fun I made the unused "Dot" red along with the stripes. You're sitting there with a bunch of red paint in a syringe, so why not, eh? So, today I got the head back on and torqued it in 4 steps to 72lbs-ft. I took pains to clean the block threads, then properly oiled them. I also have a tip. The washers have an edge on their circumference on one side. I tried lapping one that I used for an experiment and the metal is crazy hard carbon steel. I was thinking about lapping them all perfectly flat to maximize the surface area. Anyhow, the edges are all up on my install as that edge will provide a final torque number that includes the super hard washer being in tension. Then over time it will dig that edge into the aluminum as the head moves from heat cycles and some tension may be lost. It could be I stumbled on the reason there have been head/bolt tension issues and I was going to do an experiment but ran out of time. So, point those edges up away from the head unless someone has better input than this. Here's the head in place:
View attachment 259823


And of course a beauty shot with the valve covers just temporarily on gently with the seals in place to keep dirt out. I'm tired of bagging the engine every evening to keep it clean. So tip on the valve cover screws when you get new rubber cushioned washers. The rubber is hard as a rock so they won't come off the screw. Put the washer in a vice held by its edges such that you can use a screwdriver to push against the threaded tip of the screw and apply some force. Then use a screwdriver gun to "unscrew" it with the screwdriver prying helping to encourage the threads to bite and unscrew it from the hard plastic. The new ones just slipped right on:
View attachment 259824

Oh man that thing is looking so beautiful! I just realized I bagged the engine out of habit as I had to pull it back for the photo. Heh....

EDIT: And wow - a bit of Supra history in the background there. See the upside down "Toyota Parking Only" sign? That is from when my wife had her new Gen 3 Supra back in the late 80s! I just noted that in the picture - too funny.
where does that hose for the heater union run to coming out the top .... i cant figure out ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #177 ·
So that's a large air hose that I'm not even sure goes yet but will be dealing with soon. I've been puzzling over the dual vents as well (one on each valve cover) as I'd think that either would be sufficient for crankcase ventilation. It is an interesting setup and I'm sure it will all be clear at some point. I assume you're asking about the valve covers? If it's the heater union pipe on the head, I believe that feeds hot water to the heater core through the firewall.
 

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So that's a large air hose that I'm not even sure goes yet but will be dealing with soon. I've been puzzling over the dual vents as well (one on each valve cover) as I'd think that either would be sufficient for crankcase ventilation. It is an interesting setup and I'm sure it will all be clear at some point. I assume you're asking about the valve covers? If it's the heater union pipe on the head, I believe that feeds hot water to the heater core through the firewall.
yes the heater union..
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
I"ll check my factory manual and confirm.

On the ATI damper. I did some research to see what's available and that product was the only one I could find. Simply put - no way I'm spending $400 on a damper. I have Toyotas running smoothly at 300k miles with the original damper. I'm sure the durometer of the rubber is not exactly what it once was in absorbing engine power pulses, but I expect a smooth engine when I'm done. It will be resting on new motor mounts, and I've done a very precise valve adjustment, and I expect no issues out of the original damper. Happily, a straight 6 engine is a naturally harmonically balanced engine (vs V6s which are horrible, etc). So unless you're sending me an ATI damper, it's not happening!! Heh....

Edit: Yes that metal union pipe on the rear of the head by the EGR cooler is the hot water exiting the engine going INTO the heater core in your dash.
 

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i was given a harmonic balancer with two grooves .... that means i wouldnt have A/C.... nope keeping the orginal one lol.. but yeah i have a service manual just cant find that hose part in it ..
 
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