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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well My FFI is done, and I am stoked. However there is no ISC yet. I was told a remote mount was being made. Who is running one without the ISC and useing a VPC. Will the idle be crappy, or can the vpc control the Idle. Hopefully I can get the ISC mounted in. OH yeah.....BTW look for pics and a real sweet custom FFI comeing to a neighborhood in D BRonx NYC. :stickpoke :blah: :bigthumb:
 

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SP74HO
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1,143 Posts
I have a FFI without ISC... But i am on a standalone. I dont think it makes a differance!
BTW my car idles around 1K, its very driveable!
 

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Back to boosting!
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339 Posts
The only prob with not having an IAC is the cold start is kinda crappy. Mine idles at like 450 cold and 800-900 hot. It ain't gonna kill you, you just need to crack the throttle a tad on some starts...foot operated IAC :D:D Oh yeah, I'm standalone too...
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
you dont need an ISC... its a potential boost leak anyways. i would recommend that you just ditch the idea all together and just bump the base idle to about 1000 rpm. when the previous owner was running my manifold, he had no problems despite the fact the ISC is gone. my friend also removed his ISC and installed a blockoff plate and he has a rock solid idle, no bogs or stalling. he also has his power steering and AC and it doesnt cause any problems engaging either.
 
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This Is Why I'm Hot.....
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QWIKSTRIKE said:
Well My FFI is done, and I am stoked. However there is no ISC yet. I was told a remote mount was being made. Who is running one without the ISC and useing a VPC. Will the idle be crappy, or can the vpc control the Idle. Hopefully I can get the ISC mounted in. OH yeah.....BTW look for pics and a real sweet custom FFI comeing to a neighborhood in D BRonx NYC. :stickpoke :blah: :bigthumb:
Umm, my VPC had an idle knob, & I'll assume yours does, too. LOL. If you monitor vF output, you will note that it works counter to TCCS, so bear that in mind.

Anyway, for a mod like this, trying it & finding out is the best advice. Every engine has its own set of idiosyncrasies that will yield its own unique result. Most VPCs have an inherently lumpy idle; while conversely, I have seen a few that idled & ran as smooth as AFMd cars...so YMMV. At least know that others have gone before you & managed to survive.
;)

Good luck!
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,956 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Larry_A said:
Umm, my VPC had an idle knob, & I'll assume yours does, too. LOL. If you monitor vF output, you will note that it works counter to TCCS, so bear that in mind.

Anyway, for a mod like this, trying it & finding out is the best advice. Every engine has its own set of idiosyncrasies that will yield its own unique result. Most VPCs have an inherently lumpy idle; while conversely, I have seen a few that idled & ran as smooth as AFMd cars...so YMMV. At least know that others have gone before you & managed to survive.
;)

Good luck!

This is too true teacher! With the emanage the vpc runs nice and smooth and none of that miss usually heard at idle. There is no question you and I have the same type of VPC.;) I am so lucky To have all of you guys chime in, and lend some advice. I won't sweat this then. I will try to have pics up this afternnoon when I actually pic it up. Sweet welds and mirrored finish, and is really a thing to behold.
:) :bigthumb:
 

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is your car running right now?

WOuldn't you be able to unplug the ISC and see hwo it ran?

obviously if your car's in peices right now...
 

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Supra Fan
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Godd sheeit Quik! Now where are those pics! :)
 

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no isc here for about a year, shitty cold idle, 1k idle once its warm. takes some getting used to but nothing major...
 

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1JZ BLING!
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I ran without ISC for a few months, basically you have to hold the throttle open a little with your foot (create ISC effect) until the car warms up then it was fine.

The annoying part is that I would always have to start the car on cold mornings so I had to sit there like a tool and warm it up.

I am now happy that I have a car that starts up on the first try in the cold. Properly working cars rule all.

I expect that you will find yourself messing with the idle knob on various conditions like hot/cold day/night, etc.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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Slim, thats unsuall...

my friend (the one that does my machine work and Tig welding) eliminated his ISC and doesnt have to do that ever. his idle is slightly bumped. it takes a few extra revolutions to get it to start up, and its got a lumpy idle when it runs, but it doesnt stall. On top of which, hes got 550's and a Lexus Untuned. its quite rich... but no stalling problems ;)
 

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Impeller Head
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2,832 Posts
During cold starts, the motor needs extra air for fast idle until in warms up. Otherwise, the idle will be really low or it will stall. The motor runs richer when cold, based on the coolant temp. So, it will need the extra air to match the extra fuel. If you have a standalone, it's less of an issue. Notice the q45 TB throttle plate being open a little bit when cold. This is also based on coolant temp. So
Qwik, might not be a problem for you since you have that TB. Nice FFI BTW, my very first try in making one was similar to that and it sat too high in the engine compartment :(
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
ron, i concur with yo 100%. but alot of time, a low cold-idle can be remedied w/ a bumped base idle using the idle-set screw or idle air bleed.

it would be really cool to fabricate a solenoid with a plunger to physically hold the throttle plate open for a high idle... just like the carb'd cars used to back in the day when AC used to be engaged... you guys know what im talkin about?
 

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Impeller Head
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2,832 Posts
Or use an air regulator from the nissan z car. All it needs is 12 volts when ign. is on. It lets more air (bypassing the throttle plate) when cold and the 12 volts warms it up and closes the valve. Really simple. I have it on my setup.
 
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