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Discussion Starter #61
not a thing. you could shim the oil pump. you could waste all kinds of energy and $ installing a thermostatic oil cooling system.

run an oem radiator/ water pump / hydraulic oem fan clutch. stock stuff is all fine for 400 whp



the original engine, built to OEM specs will handle that all day long. provided you are not detonating and have a proper tune. only thing wrong from the factory was loose head bolts due to an incorrect spec used at assembly. if you install just apr studs with the oem gasket it will hold that fine.

you don't even need the turbo motors piston squirters to live at that level. im running a 7mge block with gte pistons (no oil cooling) and have exactly 0 concerns about my oil system at that power level


7m gets the bad wrap as a rod knocker. most (if not all) originate from a few super easy mistakes
1. no enough oil in the motor and whipping around corners at high speed, starving the pickup and loosing pressure. the old 7m like to leak. forget to check the oil, leave the house with 2 qt low and do some 80 mph sweeping corners at 6k rpm. a rookie supra (or any car owner) will make the first 2 mistakes with a car that consumes oil (leaks/burns/combo)

2. motor blows a head gasket and makes milkshake oil. car then drives X miles on this oil, beating the piss out of the pump and bearings. and then it knocks


but I have to be real. getting a car in pieces and not knowing the platform is a huge pain in the ass. I picked up an 1976 mgb like that a while back. trust me, I know cars / what to do and have close to 3 decades of experience working on engines ....there were so many unique "british" things to learn about the platform. and that mgb is like the most simple platform on earth, carburated, simple mechanical distributor, etc. working on that simple platform recently has really made me aware of 2 things for the supra. 1. it is extremely fucking complex / complicated 2. replacement parts are just expensive. I mean for the mg I bought new tires at $31 each, new rubber brake hoses @6 each, new water pump was around $20. I could go on and on. with the supra all that crap is just so expensive and just not supported like other platforms.

when i was your age (here we go....) back in 1998 the supra I first bought was 11 years old. $1400, turbo manual. had a "bad clutch" but really just needed the clutch master. it was so cheep back then compared to now. you are jumping into a game dominated by guys like me now. we have disposable $ and will snipe the $500 parts cars right out from under you while you are sleeping saturday monring :) this is why things like the dam cps sensor are $200 used, or why a non cracked dash is over $500. its a tough crowd to join at 18
Well if I am just going for 400 maybe MAYBE 450-500 oneday do you think, what all should I do to get there reliably and correctly, no cut corners.

I just want to do this correctly, everyone kinda tells me diffrent things i just need a base idea to work off of and do to run this power level without somthing major breaking.
 

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I just want to do this correctly, everyone kinda tells me diffrent things i just need a base idea to work off of and do to run this power level without somthing major breaking.
Buy a clean chassis with the body and interior condition you are looking for, and put a JZ in it. It's that simple.
 

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5-7k, you already have a ton on your plate, it would be alot simpler if you stuck with the 7m, and the 7m can handle your power goals easily.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

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I strongly suggest you spend the extra $$ on a better condition car. It's going to cost more to fix all the things wrong with that car than it would to just grab a better condition one. Not to mention it is going to be hard to find any of the parts for it as well. I got impatient and started off with a pretty rough shell I bought for $500 two years ago and it's been pretty rough to get my hands on what it is missing or needs fixed. Spending the extra cash on a well rounded car is definitely worth it in my opinion.
 

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Wow, this thread makes me feel like I got a steal for $500. My 89 turbo 5MT is in somewhat better shape body/interior-wise, and is put together.
 

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This car I'll link below is basically the goal for a lot of folks:


Worth considering you'll probably spend 3x that much to get a typical Mk3 to that point.

I'm also a supporter of the JZ platform for two very good reasons. One, aftermarket support. Two, and far more important, oil control. I used to think the 7m was just fine (they do drive really nice, and sound even better), but after you blow a 7m up 3 or 4 times, you start to wonder if it's the right engine for your driving habits. For me... it wasn't, simply enough. I doubt you'd find many 7m's capable of surviving a season of autocross.

That said, you can easily spend a JZ into silliness too. I went dry sump on mine, because I never want to kill an engine due to oil control again. This is a question that you need to ask yourself, "what am I going to do with the car when it's all running and sorted?" That will tell you the route to go.

Now, IF I were to ever consider doing a 7m, would I go dry sump? Probably not, it's honestly pretty horrible value for the money, and probably not necessary for something not spinning over 8k. However, I would absolutely consider and research an accusump system for a 7m.

If all I wanted was 350-400hp out of the car (that is a fantastic power level for these platforms, don't let "The Internet" tell you it's not enough), I'd focus first on making everything OEM and CORRECT. Then standalone, because old ECU's are getting old at this point, and a failed ECU is not fun, plus... a standalone opens up some nice future upgrades and modern touches. After that, I'd likely do the fuel system. Last, I'd put a modern turbo on it. Something like an EFR 7163 or Garrett G25-660.

Or I'd put a 2jz in it, and never look back. My wife's Supra makes about 380 whp on stock twins, stock fuel system, stock intake, stock engine, you get the idea. Upgraded intercooler and a hot air intake, and a 3" exhaust. Runs like a champ, and in my experience, will run like a champ for a nice, loooooooong time. :)
 

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I like everything about that 92 ...minus the RHD problem ;)

~350 whp ---about where my car sits according to trap speed HP calculators -- is a good time

its enough where stop light to stop light, you can hang with very expensive cars. if you have better tires on the back, you can even beat some faster cars bc lot of times guys who buy it (vs build it) also can't drive for shit or don't have much practice on different surfaces and like to spin a lot. turbo cars tend to roll onto the power so its easier to get a good launch in a lot of situations.
 
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