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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
"I can't get it up!"

Did a trial lift of my 15 year old hoist with the freshly bleed hydraulic ram, and it only budged a few inches, and quickly it went back down.
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I bleed it three times with the same result. Closest Harbor Freight with one in stock is 110 miles north of here, so ordered one off Amazon. It's due here Thursday, so that's 10 PM, call it Friday. My buddies are coming Saturday at 8 AM. I call that cutting it close. Wish me luck!
 

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I know I'm talking to a professional, but did you check the air bleeder valve? I use some needle nose pliers to make sure mine is tight and snug. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know I'm talking to a professional, but did you check the air bleeder valve? I use some needle nose pliers to make sure mine is tight and snug. Good luck!
I did. It was poor the last time I used it, so I should have expected it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Are you replacing the cylinder or the whole unit?

Where there's a will there's a way!
Just the ram, not parts of the ram, but not the whole hoist. I also saw that Harbor Freight thought I was close to that store 110 miles from here. It appears they have one at the local store. I'm going after lunch. Amazon Prime is good for returns, too. Friday is cutting it too close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Just the ram, not parts of the ram, but not the whole hoist. I also saw that Harbor Freight thought I sas close to that store 110 miles from here. It appears they have one at the local store. I'm going after lunch. Amazon Prime is good for returns, too. Friday is cutting it too close.
Harbor Freight had one. I was in my HF account, logged on, but it had apparently forgotten my location and thought I was in Orange County... north of here. Once I reset my location they were available. Got it. Installed it. It's "up" now. It's been up for a couple of hours... :) Cancelled my Amazon order. Continued working on the list of things to do by Friday. It's looking good though. Damn! I can hardly wait.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Really excited for you man, hope it all goes well!
There is so much that I haven't been able to do with the engine out of the car. That part is exciting. One disappointing part is that it will have to come out again. I still haven't fabricated a bracket for my wastegate actuator, or a bracket for my (second) crank sensor. The hard one that required a hole drilled and tapped in the lower timing cover is done, but the easy one for the 36-1 trigger wheel is not done. Very important to note that my crank bolt is only torqued to 150 ft.lbs., as that is as high as my wrench will go. The AutoZone "loaner" only goes that high, too. One of my friends said he might be able to get one and bring it Saturday morning. It will be great to get that done so there's no chance it will be forgotten. Seems like there was something else, but it escapes me at the moment.

I had butchered one of the motor mount bolts, brand new mount, but I apparently tried to put a 1.50 thread pitch nut on it, and to make matters worse, I used the wrong die to "correct" the first problem. Marshall's Hardware store to the rescue with a 12mm x 1.25 die. Both problems fixed. The engine hung on the hoist all night, and two levels I put on arm were still centered this morning. It's hanging even higher in the air now with my stands out from underneath it. Going back this after noon to put the motor mount back on.

Five more words you're never hear me say... "I got it up now". Here's a picture to prove it :)

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I circled the bolt on the motor mount, and also the location on my stand where it would be resting if not up.
 

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Think I remember hearing that the weight of the engine and transmission is about 750 pounds. At half a ton or 1,000 pounds, your hoist should be able to handle it provided the ram seals are not leaking internally. Letting the air out of your tires can get you a couple inches easement getting over the front end. I put a towel on the top of the transmission and over the tip end to reduce firewall scratches on installation. Using a load leveler is a must. Crack open the bleeding screw slowly and let it whine. I got a surprising bounce when I opened it too quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Think I remember hearing that the weight of the engine and transmission is about 750 pounds. At half a ton or 1,000 pounds, your hoist should be able to handle it provided the ram seals are not leaking internally. Letting the air out of your tires can get you a couple inches easement getting over the front end. I put a towel on the top of the transmission and over the tip end to reduce firewall scratches on installation. Using a load leveler is a must. Crack open the bleeding screw slowly and let it whine. I got a surprising bounce when I opened it too quickly.
Excellent tips and information. Thank you so much.
 

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So happy for you, this is always an exciting part of the game!

Just... take your time, and don't rush it. That's how you forget to replace a small coolant feed line, and it eventually bursts on you, shooting hot coolant all over your engine and really freaking you out on your way to work. Ask me how I know. :p

May need to save torquing the crank pulley bolt until it is hooked up to the transmission. I recall trying to loosen the bolt on the engine stand, and all it did was rotate the engine. Tried locking the stand, and it wanted to tip the stand...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
So happy for you, this is always an exciting part of the game!

Just... take your time, and don't rush it. That's how you forget to replace a small coolant feed line, and it eventually bursts on you, shooting hot coolant all over your engine and really freaking you out on your way to work. Ask me how I know. :p

May need to save torquing the crank pulley bolt until it is hooked up to the transmission. I recall trying to loosen the bolt on the engine stand, and all it did was rotate the engine. Tried locking the stand, and it wanted to tip the stand...
My engine and transmission are connected and on a custom stand. Well, they were, they’re hanging on the hoist now :)

I decided not to risk torquing while hanging on chains though. This is only a test fit so I can finish fabricating a bunch of stuff. Oil lines, coil harness, fans, ducts, fuel pressure meter, wideband cable routing, my Blitz Nur exhaust that doesn’t fit right due to cat length and custom rear bumper skin.

It’s still exciting, and hopefully I’ll get good at pulling it out. It took me a week the first time, 15 years ago. It ought to be routine at some point. I’m not there yet

Can’t run it yet anyway. There’s a chip shortage and I can’t build my Speeduino yet. I’ve built a few now, but the latest is an 8x8 (using 6 x 6, fuel and spark). Reality is that it will probably end up being purchased built, because even though Gerbers will be available when it comes out of beta, getting them assembled with SMDs, is a big deal.

Anyway, lots of reasons it won’t be running soon, it’s all progress and definitely exciting.

Thanks for the encouragement. I appreciate you a ton!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I built these after I flipped the engine over a long time ago. It went in slow motion and broke a brand new heater banjo pipe that was just installed. I caught it and said not again:)
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Nice looking stands. If I'd build a couple of those, maybe I wouldn't have to struggle with moving the spare transmission around now and then...

As for getting good at pulling the engine, it just takes some practice and remembering the process. I'm a bit rusty by now, but back when a guy I used to hang out with was blowing up his 7m on a seemingly monthly basis, we could pull that engine in about 2 hours, no problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Nice looking stands. If I'd build a couple of those, maybe I wouldn't have to struggle with moving the spare transmission around now and then...

As for getting good at pulling the engine, it just takes some practice and remembering the process. I'm a bit rusty by now, but back when a guy I used to hang out with was blowing up his 7m on a seemingly monthly basis, we could pull that engine in about 2 hours, no problem.
I see videos and FBposts of people doing to rather routinely. It looks early, but there are a lot of little details I'm sure I don't understand yet. I've taken things apart and put them back together so many times. @Piratetip just sent me some CPS plug pieces, and that's quite the job to get the CPS out. It needs to be done though. I had purchased pieces to convert my CPS to a Hall Effect sensor and decided for the first iteration not to do that. My thinking has come a long way from any original ideas... in the beginning I wanted to be able to switch between OEM ECU and my Speedy by simply unplugging one and plugging the other one in... No way now. Can't do that. Have to go straight to the stand-alone. I have a friend in Montreal that did his 7M that way, but he's a genius to start with. I don't have that advantage..

On the stands, these were my second crack at them. The first was one long stand, and while it worked okay, it was still awful when I wanted to separate the transmission from the engine, so I built these. Then when I went to use these, my positioning of the swivel wheels was such that it would not roll. I ended up putting a 2x4 between them, and connecting them with two 6" C-clamps. That worked, but it was still a hack. They've served a purpose. I will probably do a few mods to them before the next time I need them.

I can usually get away with about 4 hours of work at the garage per day, but I love it so much there that I still spend long hours. Lifting transmissions is not something that does my body good. Nor pushing cars, or just about anything that has to be done repeatedly... I end up playing a lot. Love to tinker. Nobody ever said I was a mechanic.
 

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So... how do you intend to deal with Kalifornia on their sniffer testing? I just read that they're now somehow able to determine aftermarket ecu's, even if your car blows clean. Not sure how they would do that on a pre-OBD2 car, but perhaps they have their ways. Also possible I misunderstood the article, it was likely focused on newer cars anyhow.

On the stands, how about a couple dowel pins to replace your 2x4 and c-clamps? Just drop a couple steel brackets with holes drilled in them to link the two stands together at an appropriate distance. Seems a lot easier than the board and clamp approach, no? Plus... it gives you an excuse to weld! :)

Man... I purposely lose track of time in the garage, it's good therapy, good exercise (mentally and physically) and it keeps me out of the kitchen usually. On that note, I'll likely never have a clock out there, for that very reason. My wife and I are quite blessed with the garage we have, and it provides nearly as much joy as it does frustration haha. So, I can relate on losing track of time on your part.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
There are no legal solutions to the CA Smog tests. I had to get her passed to get my custom plate. You might say I had a bunch of stock parts lying around, or you might say I’m lying.

If she had to move to Nevada, that’s a solution. I’ve long since quit worrying about that detail. Gotta get her finished first, then worry.

The stands are hanging on the wall for now, and yes, I will weld something. Even what’s in the picture isn’t what they look like today. The place where the motor mounts rested is wood in the picture. I finally bent some heavy duty steel, like 1/4” stuff. I have a harbor freight press but it has a finger press addition that really lets me go wild.

Yes. I’ll make a mod somewhere along the line.

I’d love to have my car at home, and this is my third garage. This one is in a commercial district and the neighbors can’t complain like they could in the other two. My landlord treats me right and there’s a huge parking lot. It’s really a great setup.
 
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