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Discussion Starter #1
If you recognize the name then you probably already know the car still isnt running 😂

So jn September of 19 was turning over the 7mgte and it was putting flames out of the turbo, and sometimes backfired through the intake... i didnk understand why that was happening until about 2 weeks ago when i was talking to some car friends and they suggested that maybe the timing was 180⁰ off. Sure enough when i took the radiator out, put a 19mm on the crank and turned the mark on the crank pulley to 0⁰ the marks on thr cam gears were pointing down.
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I fixed that today and have everything aligned right, and redid the CPS too but its still doing the same thing... checked all fuses again and the only check engine light i have is code 32 (HAC sensor) and i truly cannot think of anything else to try... i have the three things needed (spark, compression and fuel) something just isnt right

Any suggestions would be very helpful
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have you checked the cps timing? And did you check out the timing procedure in the TSRM?
I have yes, ive redid timing by the book, still wont fire up. It sputters but i feel like spark is firing at the wrong time, going to text the cps resistance tomorrow. Ohms are supposed to be between 140-180 👍🏻
 

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How about plugs then? They could have been fouled out and now they won't fire right causing it to sputter. I'd pull a few out to look at them, at the very least it'll help you figure out if it's a spark issue or fuel issue. I had my timing wrong after a head rebuild and fouled my plugs out. It would sputter and not run right so I tried cleaning then and it fired right up. Put a new set in after that and she ran great.
 

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Why does your crank pulley look like half the size of the camshaft pulleys?
Are you running without a Damper?
Did you make sure #1 is TDC when you put the CPS in?
Did you verify #1 at TDC with the Cams pointing down?
The crank rotates twice for every one cam rotation so get the #1 piston at TDC and check where everything is.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How about plugs then? They could have been fouled out and now they won't fire right causing it to sputter. I'd pull a few out to look at them, at the very least it'll help you figure out if it's a spark issue or fuel issue. I had my timing wrong after a head rebuild and fouled my plugs out. It would sputter and not run right so I tried cleaning then and it fired right up. Put a new set in after that and she ran great.
Another good suggestion, ill take a look at the plugs as well, I'll be home to my parents house Monday evening, ill take a look then, college sucks because i cant be around the car 24/7 lol

Why does your crank pulley look like half the size of the camshaft pulleys?
Are you running without a Damper?
Did you make sure #1 is TDC when you put the CPS in?
Did you verify #1 at TDC with the Cams pointing down?
The crank rotates twice for every one cam rotation so get the #1 piston at TDC and check where everything is.
The crank pulley should be 1/2 the size of the camshaft pulleys for a 2:1 turning ratio then right? 😅

I pulled the CPS, made sure the #1 piston was at tdc (line on the crank at 0 degrees and the top of the piston was showing through plug #1. Either way i turned the crank the piston was going down), then lined up the cams with their marker on the engine, reinstalled the belt so everything lined up, then reinstalled the CPS all according to the TSRM
 

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pull all the plugs


turn the motor over with your finger in hole 1

feel the pressure. this is compression, top dead center

line up the lower pulley to tdc/ 0

make sure cam gear index marks match, and the lobe is correct

then make sure cps sensor is indexed correct

find spark plug one wire. put plug 1 in and hook up 1 single cyl. really make sure you are running the wires right here bc if they are mixed up it will not start / do crazy things

hook up a timing light** (how on earth we got this far in the thread without mentioning a timing light, I don't know). even with everything dead on the nuts right you have to adjust the cps with the motor running and diagnostic jumper in. the timing notches/cps alignment procedure will get you close enough to run, but you have to verify. if you are nowhere close, this timing light will sure as shit show you that

crank it over with one cyl hooked up and see what its really doing. no plugs in other cyl. take it easy on that starter and dont let it backfire/kick back if you can

then add the rest once its timed and right (kicking when you crank, should dam near run on 1 cyl with other plugs out)
 

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The crank pulley should be 1/2 the size of the camshaft pulleys for a 2:1 turning ratio then right? 😅

No. It would make it an under drive pulley if it is as small as it looks. Hard to tell at that angle. If no damper then thats a bad idea.
You would have to use a different timing belt to take up the slack for an under drive pulley.

Madison is right on the lobe position. Make sure the lobe is up like the photo for TDC.
You might also want to go with stock cam gears till this is sorted out.


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Discussion Starter #9
The crank pulley should be 1/2 the size of the camshaft pulleys for a 2:1 turning ratio then right? 😅

No. It would make it an under drive pulley if it is as small as it looks. Hard to tell at that angle. If no damper then thats a bad idea.
You would have to use a different timing belt to take up the slack for an under drive pulley.

Madison is right on the lobe position. Make sure the lobe is up like the photo for TDC.
You might also want to go with stock cam gears till this is sorted out.


View attachment 247514
[/QUOTE]
Okay thanks, ill switch over to stock cam gears them, i haven't touched a part on the actual serpentine belt system since i got the car. The person that had that before me really did a number on this car 🤦🏻‍♂️

Im just here to hopefully get it right and have a fun summer car!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
pull all the plugs


turn the motor over with your finger in hole 1

feel the pressure. this is compression, top dead center

line up the lower pulley to tdc/ 0

make sure cam gear index marks match, and the lobe is correct

then make sure cps sensor is indexed correct

find spark plug one wire. put plug 1 in and hook up 1 single cyl. really make sure you are running the wires right here bc if they are mixed up it will not start / do crazy things

hook up a timing light** (how on earth we got this far in the thread without mentioning a timing light, I don't know). even with everything dead on the nuts right you have to adjust the cps with the motor running and diagnostic jumper in. the timing notches/cps alignment procedure will get you close enough to run, but you have to verify. if you are nowhere close, this timing light will sure as shit show you that

crank it over with one cyl hooked up and see what its really doing. no plugs in other cyl. take it easy on that starter and dont let it backfire/kick back if you can

then add the rest once its timed and right (kicking when you crank, should dam near run on 1 cyl with other plugs out)
Okay heres the thing...

When i match the mark on the cam gear up with the mark on the engine and then i took the valve cover off on the intake side and the lobe isnt pointing up, but if i make the lobe point up how the picture is showing the difference of cam gear teeth on the engine to the gear is 7 teeth, and the cam gear is on correctly (dowl pin in the middle hole on the cam and attached on the gear)

So should i just go with how the lobe is positioned? And disregard the marks on the gears? And yes i switched back to the stock cam gears if you were wondering
 

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I would line the cam gears up to match the marks on the backing plate then do what madisonMK3 said and turn the motor over with your finger in the number 1 cylinder spark plug hole until you feel pressure to verify tdc. Sometimes tdc may not match the crank pulley notch. With it in tdc and the gears lined up, put the belt on and see what she does. Again, check plugs to make sure you haven't fouled any as well. They will also tell you what cylinders are firing and which ones aren't.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I would line the cam gears up to match the marks on the backing plate then do what madisonMK3 said and turn the motor over with your finger in the number 1 cylinder spark plug hole until you feel pressure to verify tdc. Sometimes tdc may not match the crank pulley notch. With it in tdc and the gears lined up, put the belt on and see what she does. Again, check plugs to make sure you haven't fouled any as well. They will also tell you what cylinders are firing and which ones aren't.
Okay, redid timing to the way it was, lined everything up with TDC, cam gears aligned with the back plate notches, CPS lined up, turned over the car and it barley sputters and doesn't start still

Checked the spark of each coil pack and its good, took the plugs out and they were all a little black... so im thinking the plugs are fouled out. Going to get some plugs tomorrow and see what happens.

Side note, i have 550cc injectors running with the stock afm (not lexus one) on the base pressure of 40lbs. Is that too much? Will the car start with that much fuel? I have an aeromotive FPR and can turn it down if needed, if i should what should i turn it down to? Will turning it down even help?
 

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I would think that the car would still fire up and run even with that setup, just rather rich. If the plugs are black then it's definitely not sparking at the right time or they are fouled out. I don't know how the 7m ecu is set up, but I know a lot of cars if you hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking it will cut the fuel injectors off and can help a car start if it gets flooded. May not help, but is something to try. Are all the plug wires in the right spot?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would think that the car would still fire up and run even with that setup, just rather rich. If the plugs are black then it's definitely not sparking at the right time or they are fouled out. I don't know how the 7m ecu is set up, but I know a lot of cars if you hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking it will cut the fuel injectors off and can help a car start if it gets flooded. May not help, but is something to try. Are all the plug wires in the right spot?
Okay ill replace the plugs tomorrow and hold the gas to the floor when cranking to try to help it along, i switched over to is300 coils because 2/3 of the stock coils were high on resistance and not sparking. Is300s were cheaper than stock and just went with them. But i lengthened the stock coil harness to make it reach and work. I followed another thread on here to make the harness work with the is300 coils and followed the plug order so that should be okay. Ill post some more pictures up tomorrow when im doing the plugs.
 

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Nice, I still need to do that mod myself. Been ironing out issues and getting things back to tip top before I do any more mods. Just let us know what you find out and hopefully get this thing running good.
 

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Nice, I still need to do that mod myself. Been ironing out issues and getting things back to tip top before I do any more mods. Just let us know what you find out and hopefully get this thing running good.
Alright so got new spark plugs into it and it was soooo so so close man, i think with a couple of vaccum fixes and an exhaust so it can read the o2 sensor itll be in good shape 🤞🏻

Please bear with me i know the wiring on top is a giant mess but let me know if anything in these pictures jump out at you 👍🏻
Video:

Pictures:
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Video:
 

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I'd get that intake tube fixed.. Everything from the maf to the turbo needs to be either plugged or going to it's respective place. Any leaks there are gonna cause some big problems. Have you played the the cps timing at all?
 

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It's hard to tell in the photo, but it looks like it's turned clockwise all the way. I'd put it about halfway and see if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'd get that intake tube fixed.. Everything from the maf to the turbo needs to be either plugged or going to it's respective place. Any leaks there are gonna cause some big problems. Have you played the the cps timing at all?
The intake tube does need fixed, i couldn't find the piece that connects the accordion hose to the maf but i put in that red intake with a silicone connector on each end to connect it all together. The maf is plugged in tho. But i will also block off the openings in the accordion hose to keep it from leaking

I also didnt get a chance to play with the cps timing because i ran out of day light and i was the only one home and didnt have anyone to crank it while i moved it around but ill do that next, ill be up in reading PA for school all week and wont be back in Lancaster for the week.

What are your thoughts on the video? Does it sound close to starting and running? Anything major that you can tell that needs fixed?
 
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