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Discussion Starter #1
I know this has been a debated topic for quite some time, however, I would like some straight-up answers if anyone could so oblige. Currently, I'm debating whether to get an FMIC. Although a single is in the FAR future (emphasis on FAR), I would like to know if this 1000+ dollar upgrade will have a significant effect on the car. On other performance cars a quality IC is essential to increased hp gains (GN's, turbo 4 bangers, etc), but is the stock IC still cooling well at BPU levels? Please FMIC owners post with your experiences. Thanks

Chris
 

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If you have a clean (no oil) stock IC, and no boost leaks I doubt there is much to be gained from a FMIC.

Even so, I just finished installing a Greddy 3 row for stock twins on my car (pain is the ass).

My car had a recently cleaned stock intercooler, no boost leaks (I check this stuff) and dyno'd at 425 rwhp, best trap speed 117.3.

Others will tell you that you will pick up 2-3mph of trap speed even though the dyno won't show the increase since there is no airflow. I hope they are right, but I won't be disappointed if I don't gain that much.

It's there for when I single the car. :)
 

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Lagtime said:
If you have a clean (no oil) stock IC, and no boost leaks I doubt there is much to be gained from a FMIC.

Even so, I just finished installing a Greddy 3 row for stock twins on my car (pain is the ass).

My car had a recently cleaned stock intercooler, no boost leaks (I check this stuff) and dyno'd at 425 rwhp, best trap speed 117.3.

Others will tell you that you will pick up 2-3mph of trap speed even though the dyno won't show the increase since there is no airflow. I hope they are right, but I won't be disappointed if I don't gain that much.

It's there for when I single the car. :)
I was in the same position as Chip when I got my FMIC. And it didn't make one bit of difference. IMO, go single first, its more cost effective.
 
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I guess it depends on how hot your climate is. It's _stinking hot_ here in Sydney and that makes my car run like shit. Needless to say, a HKS Type S is already on the way. Otherwsie, in the cold my car goes beserk and I'd never feel the need to upgrade the FMIC.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
FMIC

Judging from the responses I think i'll be waiting on the FMIC. I'd rather get an S-AFC, cam gears, and a small NOS shot. About equal to the price of an FMIC. Thanks guys.

Chris
 
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Discussion Starter #6
true true... but then again... Im in Southern California where it gets quite hot in the summers...

I bet a FMIC would help with running full boost in the hot months... at least during the day... plus with boost at 16psi+ (on pump gas)
 
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true true.. definitally loooks really good...

you know.. I saw the most RICEY thing on a civic.. a "Intercooler look" POS.... it was a plastic FMIC ...

the funnest thing was that the guy put his licience plate into the IC... if your already going to install a fake IC, at least dont make it obvious
 

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SpdRcr0 said:
if your already going to install a fake IC, at least dont make it obvious
TRUE THAT !!!
 

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I know two of my friends picked up over 20rwhp on the dyno when they added a FMIC. One of these cars ran 120+ mph before the FOMIC and 122+ mph after the FMIC. The other ran 120.4 mph before the FMIC was added. He wasn't able to go back to the track after the FMIC. This sounds strange, but this would be my list of engine upgrades in the order I would install them.

BCC
Boost controller
Cat-back exhaust
Single turbo (this will give you the downpipe and intake)
FMIC
Fuel Computer
Cam gears
VPC or Dual MAF's
Fuel System
Intake
Cams
Etc. etc.

Hope this helps, Steve
 

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Lagtime said:
If you have a clean (no oil) stock IC, and no boost leaks I doubt there is much to be gained from a FMIC.

Even so, I just finished installing a Greddy 3 row for stock twins on my car (pain is the ass).

My car had a recently cleaned stock intercooler, no boost leaks (I check this stuff) and dyno'd at 425 rwhp, best trap speed 117.3.

Others will tell you that you will pick up 2-3mph of trap speed even though the dyno won't show the increase since there is no airflow. I hope they are right, but I won't be disappointed if I don't gain that much.

It's there for when I single the car. :)
Chip,
Hhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmm, could oil in my intercooler be a BIT of a problem for my car:eek: ? Before replacing my twins, I had been driving on SEVERELY smoking twins (there was even oil shooting out of my SSBOV)
 
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Discussion Starter #12
FMIC

Thanks everyone for your posts,

Steve I was seriously considering going single, but as I start to think about it I need to save some expenditure money for college (next semester). Right now, i'm looking at going with all the +'s before I can go single =(. Thanks again for your help.

Chris
 

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supra6spd said:


Chip,
Hhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmm, could oil in my intercooler be a BIT of a problem for my car:eek: ? Before replacing my twins, I had been driving on SEVERELY smoking twins (there was even oil shooting out of my SSBOV)
Man, take that IC out and clean it. You can use a couple of gallons of gasoline, pour some in, cap off the in & out with plastic bags and then shake it up good. Remove the plastic and pour out the gas. Repeat until the gas comes out clean.

You could also use simple green, or other degreasers. Gas is cheap though (less than $1.00/gal) and disolves oil really well, plus it evaporates easily.
 

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Lagtime said:


Man, take that IC out and clean it. You can use a couple of gallons of gasoline, pour some in, cap off the in & out with plastic bags and then shake it up good. Remove the plastic and pour out the gas. Repeat until the gas comes out clean.

You could also use simple green, or other degreasers. Gas is cheap though (less than $1.00/gal) and disolves oil really well, plus it evaporates easily.
Will do.
Do you think that could have been part of my problem only hitting 378.8rwhp? I hope so.

Another thing, should I clean all of the intercooler plumbing & SSBOV (any trick to cleaning the BOV)
thanks
 

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supra6spd said:


Will do.
Do you think that could have been part of my problem only hitting 378.8rwhp? I hope so.

Another thing, should I clean all of the intercooler plumbing & SSBOV (any trick to cleaning the BOV)
thanks
It could have contributed to the problem, did you use 100 octane gas on the dyno?

I cleaned all my plumbing at the same time, which also has the benefit of greatly reducing the odds of popping off an IC hose.

I don't have an aftermarket BOV, so I can't help you with that.
 

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Lagtime said:


It could have contributed to the problem, did you use 100 octane gas on the dyno?

I cleaned all my plumbing at the same time, which also has the benefit of greatly reducing the odds of popping off an IC hose.

I don't have an aftermarket BOV, so I can't help you with that.
93 pump gas
HKS intake/ SSBOV
AEM Cam Gear -4 exhaust
RPS Stage III clutch w/ lightened flywheel
RMM Downpipe
Hks exhaust
Greddy Boost Guage w/ peak hold...
I only hit 1.1 Bar on booth pulls??
378.8RWHP...really sucks. I thought I'd be much higher essp. w/ the cold temps.
 

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supra6spd said:


93 pump gas
HKS intake/ SSBOV
AEM Cam Gear -4 exhaust
RPS Stage III clutch w/ lightened flywheel
RMM Downpipe
Hks exhaust
Greddy Boost Guage w/ peak hold...
I only hit 1.1 Bar on booth pulls??
378.8RWHP...really sucks. I thought I'd be much higher essp. w/ the cold temps.
I dyno'd ~40 rwhp more with 100 octane vs. 92 octane. Timing retard has alway kept me from any more than about 380 when using regular pump gas, 100 octane cures this. :)

On the street where the intercooler is working my cars runs great on a 50/50 mix of 100 and 91, at 19 psi.
 

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Lagtime said:


I dyno'd ~40 rwhp more with 100 octane vs. 92 octane. Timing retard has alway kept me from any more than about 380 when using regular pump gas, 100 octane cures this. :)

On the street where the intercooler is working my cars runs great on a 50/50 mix of 100 and 91, at 19 psi.
:eek: :eek:40RWHP ....:eek: :eek:

...just by adding 100 octane gas! WOW
Can't this timing thing be cleared up by running a simple water injection kit w/93 pump gas. I think the aquamist kit sells for $300?
 

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supra6spd said:


:eek: :eek:40RWHP ....:eek: :eek:

...just by adding 100 octane gas! WOW
Can't this timing thing be cleared up by running a simple water injection kit w/93 pump gas. I think the aquamist kit sells for $300?
I used the Aquamist kit for quite a while, it is no substitute for 100 octane gas, or even the ~95 octane mix I have used.

The Aquamist pump is way too small to supply the needs of a ~500 crank horsepower motor. Very high quality kit though, although kinda pricey.

IMO, if you want to go the water injection route use the time tested kit preferred by turbo Buick owners, the SMC. Check out this link: http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/SteveCkit.html
 
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