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Discussion Starter #1
For those of you with FMICs and a fluidyne radiator (Andi?) does the fluidyne completely fix cooling problems on track? I've got a Greddy FMIC now, and didn't have any cooling problems at all on a 70ish day. On a 85F day, my temperature was getting up to about 2/3rds on the stock guage after 3-4 hard laps. At that point, I'd back off, and the temperature would drop down almost immediately, so the cooling system isn't that overwhelemed. However, in the summer, temperatures at Thunderhill and Buttonwillow are often 100F or above, and I'm wondering if the Fluidyne does the trick under extreme conditions like that. I also have a Greddy oil cooler FWIW.

Also in case anybody is interested, I did some measurements of intake charge temps with the stock IC and the Greddy on track on 65-70F days. The stocker got as high as 158F after several hard laps, and the Greddy never went over 87F. The stocker is very good for a stock IC, but the Greddy is unbelievable. Only a ~20F increase over ambient temperatures is amazing in a setting where you're at WOT repeatedly for long periods of time. I had expected 100F temperatures at best.
 

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Supra OG
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Eric,

The Fluidyne helps but isn't everything. I've managed to get the temp gauge to move even with the Fluidyne and Greddy 10-row oil cooler. Of course, this was on a tight track (houston blimp base) running 17psi and forgetting to turn the fuel up and the heating to max and without the higher pressure cap, and without the electric fan mod.

Right now I run a different fuel map for road racing (much richer.. around 10.0-10.5 to one), I run a Stant 19-21psi radiator cap on the Fluidyne, I turn the heater and fan to max before I get on the track, and I also pull the AC switch (just above the turbos on the inner fender) to preventatively turn on the electric fans. I also turn the boost as low as I can (about 1.1 upto 4th gear and 1.2 in 5th.)

This worked fine at TWS a couple weekends ago, although I still wonder how it'll do at the Motorsport Ranch in the summer (where even a regular BPU Supra at 15psi with the stock IC will overheat).

Regards,
Andi

Originally posted by Eric:
<STRONG>For those of you with FMICs and a fluidyne radiator (Andi?) does the fluidyne completely fix cooling problems on track? I've got a Greddy FMIC now, and didn't have any cooling problems at all on a 70ish day. On a 85F day, my temperature was getting up to about 2/3rds on the stock guage after 3-4 hard laps. At that point, I'd back off, and the temperature would drop down almost immediately, so the cooling system isn't that overwhelemed. However, in the summer, temperatures at Thunderhill and Buttonwillow are often 100F or above, and I'm wondering if the Fluidyne does the trick under extreme conditions like that. I also have a Greddy oil cooler FWIW.

Also in case anybody is interested, I did some measurements of intake charge temps with the stock IC and the Greddy on track on 65-70F days. The stocker got as high as 158F after several hard laps, and the Greddy never went over 87F. The stocker is very good for a stock IC, but the Greddy is unbelievable. Only a ~20F increase over ambient temperatures is amazing in a setting where you're at WOT repeatedly for long periods of time. I had expected 100F temperatures at best.</STRONG>
[ May 23, 2001: Message edited by: Andi ]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Originally posted by Andi:
<STRONG>Eric,

The Fluidyne helps but isn't everything. I've managed to get the temp gauge to move even with the Fluidyne and Greddy 10-row oil cooler. Of course, this was on a tight track (houston blimp base) running 17psi and forgetting to turn the fuel up and the heating to max and without the higher pressure cap, and without the electric fan mod. </STRONG>
How warm was it getting on the stock gauge? Did you have to slow down to let it cool down, or was did it stabilize at a higher temperature?

I may just pull the FMIC and go back to the stocker if a fluidyne won't fix it. My previous car had overheating problems on hot track days, and I'd rather not go back to driving with the heater on and eyes glued to the temperature gauge.
 

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Supra OG
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You mean my car? It got to about 3/4 after about 10 balls-to-the-wall laps chasing Jeff Watson around a very short, tight course.. I cruised for about 10 seconds and the temp was back to the middle.. I don't know if it was stabilized at 3/4 or not, but it probably was because I wasn't looking at the gauge very often and that's just where I found it when I randomly looked down one time.

Like I said, though, this was without a lot of the things that make the car run cooler, like the richer fuel map, etc..

Andi

Originally posted by Eric:
<STRONG>How warm was it getting on the stock gauge? Did you have to slow down to let it cool down, or was did it stabilize at a higher temperature?

I may just pull the FMIC and go back to the stocker if a fluidyne won't fix it. My previous car had overheating problems on hot track days, and I'd rather not go back to driving with the heater on and eyes glued to the temperature gauge.</STRONG>
 
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