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Discussion Starter #1
For those with single turbos, how are you alleviating the problem of blowing it out again?
Do most of you use catch cans or some kind of breather filter?

Did any of you have so many miles on your Sup that you have a groove worn into your crank?

I have to replace my seal again, the 2nd time in just over a month. The car has 250k and I plan on opening this thing up to see the seal and crank for myself, since I paid someone to do it the first time. I want to see exactly what's going on. I was told it's possile that the crank has a groove in it and the oil is pushing past the seal through the groove. The engine is still running like a champ, so I don't want to replace it or rebuild it until absolutely necessary. The leak is crazy though. It's causing other problems such as my belt is now making noise, and it's brand new. I figured I'll clean up the bay again and see if it helps some of the noises go away.

I really don't want to go through this again anytime soon, so any suggestions on relieving the oil pressure would be appreciated.
 

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remove your pcv valves and install an oil catch can system. what blows out front and rear main seals are excessive amounts of postive crankcase pressure
 

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I've also seen people "pin" the seal in via screws. I would go with a catch can system first though and see if that helps.
 

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I'm still looking for the sure fire fix for this.
I know ppl who have blown them even with the oil catch can.
I'm thinking about doing the one way valves to the downpipe.
 

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I'm experiencing similar problems. just replaced the front main and the cam seals. seemed to be ok until i drove it for 5 miles and then it started leaking again. we put some dye in the oil and traced it. this time it was leaking out of the oil pump. so we replaced that and the crank seal (again) and it's not leaking anymore. drove the car with boost all the way off for about 100 miles and now it sounds like i have spun a rod bearing.
 

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Unless you are spinning RPM's beyond the stock rev limiter, you should not be blowing the FMS. Catch cans won't buy you better ventilation.

I'd guess whoever installed the FMS did not clean the bore well, oil the seal prior to install or did not install it properly (tore it on installation). There isn't any reason for it to fail after 5 miles if it lasted 250K.

you are also unlikely to have a groove that would be a problem, but if you did (and it would be the first time i've heard of it) then you could use a speedisleeve from CR.

Thanks,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all of your suggestions. I have not been able to replace the seal just yet, as it hasn't arrived. I do find it strange that the seal lasted for 122k (I got the car at 128k) with no problems, but can't last a month once it's replaced. I had a small drip before I replaced it, and now I have to fill it up a quart or two a week.

98mkiv, I had called Jeff Watson and asked if there was some kind of repair sleeve available in case there was a groove, but he said he had never heard of one. Where is CR located and what does CR stand for? I need to know in case I have to order one.
 

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one way valves to the downpipe could get oily for a dialy driven set up.
Oily in the exhaust right?
Only would hurt emissions which doesnt matter anyway
 

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Well here's my 2 cents everything that was said above was done and it didn't work, the catch can won't help any (except for blow by), the only fix that I now works is a new oil pump and I was dealing with blown FMS and when I fix it the RMS would blow so I finally did it the correct way I replace both the FMS and the RMS @ the same time and replace the Oil pump (knock on WOOD) it has not happened since I"ve replace them and I'm now single. (keep in mind this mainly happened to me when I was on Stock twins).

P.S I had also lost my #4 piston a while backand the car was redone from scratch, and even then with the same oil pump it happened to me, well up untill I replace the oil pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well here's my 2 cents everything that was said above was done and it didn't work, the catch can won't help any (except for blow by), the only fix that I now works is a new oil pump and I was dealing with blown FMS and when I fix it the RMS would blow so I finally did it the correct way I replace both the FMS and the RMS @ the same time and replace the Oil pump (knock on WOOD) it has not happened since I"ve replace them and I'm now single. (keep in mind this mainly happened to me when I was on Stock twins).

P.S I had also lost my #4 piston a while backand the car was redone from scratch, and even then with the same oil pump it happened to me, well up untill I replace the oil pump.
What exactly is blow-by? I need to figure out what can be done at this point. What's the average cost of replacing a pump and the RMS?

What would you guys do? I can handle installing a new seal again, but if I go so far as to have to replace a pump on a high mile motor, which might only last a few months before a new motor is needed, then it's like throwing money out the window. If I have to replace the motor, I'm going to probably get rid of it.
 

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blow-by is the amount of gas that gets by your piston rings and into the crankcase. during high amounts of boost the blow by can be quite high and needs to be purged from the crankcase so the pressure doesnt build up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes, thanks, I already found that thread and ordered the seal described there.

So the motor has to come out if the oil pump needs replacing, correct?
 

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some people say yes, some say no.

I say no, you don't need to. I replace timing covers quite often on other vehicles(22R's to be precise). Nobody drops the pan on those, that would be rediculous. I have never had one leak, but I cannot say the same for everyone else as I have seen other leak because they did it wrong. On the 22R's, you do have to lift the head a little but due to HG design, but fortunatly the 2JZ did not take the cover up that far. Just make sure not to let any FIPG go into the oil pan.

For those who want to be extra careful, pull the motor. Not really that hard. Takes me about 45 minutes to an hour to plop the motor/trans on the ground. I will be pulling mine today to inspect the bearings for any signs of excessive wear and I will replace the pump at the same time.
 

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What exactly is blow-by? I need to figure out what can be done at this point. What's the average cost of replacing a pump and the RMS?

What would you guys do? I can handle installing a new seal again, but if I go so far as to have to replace a pump on a high mile motor, which might only last a few months before a new motor is needed, then it's like throwing money out the window. If I have to replace the motor, I'm going to probably get rid of it.

The Motor does not need to come out I had a buddy of mine who works for the Toyota Dealer did it for me, I can't quote u a price as mine was cheaper b\c he's a friend but i do know all he did was raised the front of the motor to replace it. The RMS is the Rear Main Seal that is on the rear of the crank but if it's not leaking why worry about it (PS one normally repalce the RMS when they are doing their clutch but as I stated I did everything @ once, Unless it's a really bad leak).

As for the Motor and replacing it thats gonna be ur call and the amount of funds you have to play with
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I was quoted well over 2k for oil pump and RMS replacement from a shop in WPB. That was with ME purchasing the parts and bringing them in......

I was told by another shop that it's only a 16 hour job at max book time.

wtf?
 
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