18" Volk LE37
Nitto NT555 (275 rear 255 front)
Front Strut Brace
t04E .60 turbo
Turbonetics hose clamps, silicone couplers, and oil return flange
Clutchmasters Stage 3 clutch
Greddy Type S BOV
Cold Air Intake
Walbro 255ltr/hr fuel pump
New Fuel Filter
Earl's and Aeroquip fittings and lines for fuel and oil
SDS EIC (additional injector controller)
VDO Boost Guage
Manual Boost Controller
Greddy SP Exhaust
In the mail:
TiAl 40mm wastegate w/5.8 psi spring
New Black Carpet
(2) Greddy 720cc injectors and fuel fittings
Still need to order:
As far as the labor portion of it goes, I have:
- Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter.
- Done the fuel damper bypass mod and T'd off the fuel rail supply line to feed the additional injectors.
- Dropped the tranny and replaced the clutch.
- The oil pan has been tapped, but I still need to get the lower pan off and clean it out then reattach it.
- T'd off the oil pressure sensor and run the oil supply line for the turbo.
- The boost guage has been installed where the clock is.
- Exhaust installed.
- Sidemarkers installed
- Wheels and tires mounted (oooh that was hard )
- Built bracket and mounted BOV where cruise control used to be
- Mounted Intercooler and piped from IC to throttle body
- Removed rear seatbelts (am converting to a 2 seater)
- Once I get the manifold, wastegate, and the aluminum pipe, I will take my car to "The Wonderful Muffler Man" and have a downpipe made, the turbo to intercooler pipe bent, have the injector bosses welded onto the charge pipe, and the return fitting welded to the flange on the oil pan.
- Finish fuel line connections to injectors, oil cooling lines to/from turbo, and vacuum lines to (BOV, MBC, EIC, and Wastegate)
- Install Additional Injector Controller
- Replace headgasket (scared of this one)
- Go to Elite Autosports and have them dyno tune my fuel system
- Post my 450hp dyno sheet online
I have probably forgotten some stuff, as I have had a couple glasses of scotch, but as I remember it I will edit the post. All in all, there have been plenty of bloody knuckles and expletives hurled in my garage, but I think that come spring I will be happy. I am not done with it yet, so it may be premature to say, but it has been a good experience and despite thinking that I knew a lot about my car before hand, I am learning a lot more now.
One caveat - this has been far less economical than I thought it would be. The bulk of the stuff can be had reasonably, but you get nickled and dimed to death. When I am done, I will post every part number and cost of everything, including where I got it. I am the son of a tradesman and have a pretty damn big tool chest, and I STILL probably spent $250 on tools that I needed (socket extensions, impact sockets, bearing pullers, etc.).
Oil pan removed and cleaned out and reinstalled (had to jack the engine up about 12 " to get the focker off).
Transmission and driveline back on. Much easier putting it on than taking it off. Key was to jack up the front of the engine while it is bolted to the motormounts. That forces the rear end down and makes it easier to get the tranny back on. Let me tell you what a sight it was putting it back on solo with only a regular floor jack - both hands on the tranny to steady it and using my foot to raise the jack '
Next stop - the wonderful muffler man - to make the Y-pipe/downpipe and bend the 2.5" pipe from the turbo to the intercooler...
Question for you. I looked at a few pages with installations into a TT and a kit into a SC300. One thing that I was wondering about is what you had just mentioned regarding the drilling into the bolt in the oil pan for the oil feed/return lines. As you mentioned, you had to remove the oil pan to get rid of the shavings and junk.
On the install page in the MKIV site, the install page shows something that looks as if the RPS/SP kit included oil feed/return lines that do not require drilling. It looks as though the lines included with these kits have things pre-made. Would it be easier to just order these lines from SP?
Actually you don't drill and tap the bolt. On the upper oil pan, near the front of the engine on the passenger side (about 1 foot directly under the distributor) there is a 7/8" hole with two 1/4" holes on each side of it. This is where the flange for the return on the TT goes and this is what is pictured in that link.
On the N/A pan, they don't drill through that hole all the way, so you have to. When it is done, it will look exactly like that picture, but without drilling through the hole, there is no way for the oil to return to the pan...
I took Dave's advice and T'd off of the oil pressure sender. If I had it to do over again, I might look at tapping that big bolt next to the filter. The oil pressure sender location is a pretty slick looking location, but hard to get at. I got tired of the bloody knuckles with my big hands, so I popped off the AC hoses and bled them so I could slide the AC compressor off far enough to get at the area better.
I am kinda stalled on my project until my manifold and wastegate show up. Once they come, then I can get my downpipe and IC piping finished. Then I can mount them for good and complete all my oil and fuel fittings. Then I am just a headgasket away from nirvana!
In the meantime I guess I can work on the interior. My new carpet should show up today, and I will order my seats today - anyone have anything bad to say about the Corbeau Carrerras?
Man, this NA-T project wouldn't be bad at all if you were going to run a low boost setup. The real b!tches of the job were replacing the clutch and the headgasket (a job I just finished except for adjusting the timing). I also removed the EGR system while I was in there. Just waiting for my spark plugs to show up, then I can put the throttle body back on and be on the home stretch (knock on wood)...
I am almost finished getting all of my turbo kit stuff for my N/A... I'm lost with the oil pan lines to and from the turbo... Im doing the install myself, need as much help as possible... also, T'd means ripped it off right?