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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello my fellow supra brothers.

So this has been driving me nuts for the past year or two now, and I can't seem to pinpoint the problem.

I bought a catless DP from someone here on the forums, and after installing it, everything seemed fine. Fitment was good, and there were no exhaust leaks. Then, after about a month, i started to hear rattling noises down by the connection between the DP and the turbo housing.

Just recently, I replaced my catless DP with the Stock toyota DP for obvious reasons. :) .

The rattling noise was completely gone, and it has been about two weeks now...but the noise is back again. It just feels like the downpipe is coming loose right where it connects to the turbo housing. It is producing this annoying rattling noise.

The mechanic whom I give my car to says he torques the three bolts on the turbo housing to 50ftlbs... I can't think of any other solution. Do any of you guys use some kind of a high temp gasket sealant? Should I get some fresh gaskets/bolts?

Thanks in advance for all your help.

Samira R
 

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Since you can install a OE cat I'll assume you are still on stock twins. The gaskets for the OE cat and a aftermarket DP are totally different. You ask about bolts so I'm confused what you really have- stock is three studs in the EGCV log and three sloted hex castle nuts are used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
MtFujiSupra said:
Since you can install a OE cat I'll assume you are still on stock twins. The gaskets for the OE cat and a aftermarket DP are totally different. You ask about bolts so I'm confused what you really have- stock is three studs in the EGCV log and three sloted hex castle nuts are used.

Sorry for the confusion.

I am on stock twins...and I guess i'm not too knowledgeable about the terminology here.

Three studs and three slotted hex castle nuts would be correct.
 

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87toysupratt said:
can you try to put 2 nuts on the same bolt, cause that would help stop them from getting loose.
Only with longer studs- stock studs are just long enough for one nut.

TS1- just out of curiosity, are you still using the stock stabilizer bracket that is attached to the front of the cat and the block?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am using the stabilizer bracket with my stock toyota DP. However, this bracket cannot be used with an aftermarket dp (as you probably know)...so I didn't use it while my car was catless.

Any more ideas?
thanks for the input...
 

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"Philzilla"
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TS1 said:
I am using the stabilizer bracket with my stock toyota DP. However, this bracket cannot be used with an aftermarket dp (as you probably know)...so I didn't use it while my car was catless.

Any more ideas?
thanks for the input...
You could have a flange welded onto the aftermarket dp for the stabilizer bracket.

It's possible that one of your studs is stripped. Fwiw, I'd suggest getting all 3 studs and nuts replaced with brand-new oem studs & nuts from 'yota.
 

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Old School
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The ceramic butterfly valve in the EGCV is famous for rattling.
 

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I would have suggested the EGCV butterfly but said the pipe "feels" like it was loose...
Also, aftermarket DPs are light weight and don't require the bracket.
 

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What I don't understand is what is different about this install vs. other successful DP installs? I have never had this happen and I've had mine apart several times...

Maybe the poster can supply a photo of the install showing the hardware used.
 

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You will not be able to fit additional hardware on the studs- they're not long enough. Unless others are having a chronic problem of the same nature, there is something specific about this car.
 

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I don't think you ever said if the nuts were actually LOOSE when you (or your mechanic) checked them. I seriously wonder if the nuts are actually coming loose. LOL They are more likely to be on so tight that they twist off when you're trying to remove them than they are to come loose on their own (assuming the are the correct OEM studs and nuts). I'd be looking at the valve or something else that might be causing the rattle.
 

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try the lock washer with new studs and nuts (if they are stripped) and see what happens. i wouldn't replace the studs if i didn't have to because there is a good chance that they will break.
 

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"Philzilla"
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supralover93 said:
try the lock washer with new studs and nuts (if they are stripped) and see what happens. i wouldn't replace the studs if i didn't have to because there is a good chance that they will break.
Lock washers won't work because of the high heat ... oem crown nuts work perfectly without lock washers.

As I said above, imo 3 new studs and 3 new nuts from Toyota is the most likely way to solve the problem as you've described it. If you'd like to take this remote troubleshooting a step further, remove the studs and nuts, and post close-up high-res pictures of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thank you everone for your help!

I'll have to ask curt to come to the rescue now.

Samira R
 
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