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Are there any other than the air cleaner one(HKS SMF)?
 

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It been about 10 years since I did this one. Open the AMF box with a razor blade (cutting the seal). Then take a screwdriver and unscrew the spring keeping keeping the gear in place. Mark the stock location with a ink pen or paint. Then take and move the gear about 3 to 5 clicks clockwise. Tighten the spring again with your trusty screw driver and close the lid. This should give you about 6HP; although, I'm not expert here and am not 100% sure of the gains. :)
 

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Wade said:
It been about 10 years since I did this one. Open the AMF box with a razor blade (cutting the seal). Then take a screwdriver and unscrew the spring keeping keeping the gear in place. Mark the stock location with a ink pen or paint. Then take and move the gear about 3 to 5 clicks clockwise. Tighten the spring again with your trusty screw driver and close the lid. This should give you about 6HP; although, I'm not expert here and am not 100% sure of the gains. :)
If you haven't checked out celicasupra.com do so now (I know Wade has).

My understanding is that those gains don't really come into play until after you've done other things (intake, exhaust, header)...

YMMV. It's a 15-19 year-old NA engine... you can't expect much. :)
 

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quick said:


If you haven't checked out celicasupra.com do so now (I know Wade has).

My understanding is that those gains don't really come into play until after you've done other things (intake, exhaust, header)...

YMMV. It's a 15-19 year-old NA engine... you can't expect much. :)
Eeek! Yea, I remember when I did them in the fall of '91 it seemed to make a difference in the high end much not too noticable down low. But even a 5HP gain is gonna be hardly noticable even to a MKII veteran.

Actualy, you could also tear down your engine and port and polish the head, exhaust manifold and intake manifold which is free. :)

As Chris said you cant expect too much. :)
 
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How do I do that??? I know it takes some serious knowledge to port & polish...I think. What kind of gains would that yield?

Also, I'm burning some oil after I sit idle for any length of time. I know that there are 2 main oil burning problems...vavle seals and piston rings. Can you tell the difference by when the smoke comes? I hope it's just the vavle seals....

If that's the case, are vavle seals easy to replace(relatively of course)...I have a Chilton!
 

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threesixty said:
How do I do that??? I know it takes some serious knowledge to port & polish...I think. What kind of gains would that yield?

Also, I'm burning some oil after I sit idle for any length of time. I know that there are 2 main oil burning problems...vavle seals and piston rings. Can you tell the difference by when the smoke comes? I hope it's just the vavle seals....

If that's the case, are vavle seals easy to replace(relatively of course)...I have a Chilton!
Port and polish is not that hard... you can do it with a dremel and some down time.

If rings are bad car will smoke black all the time.

If valve stem seals are bad car will smoke black when accelerating after idling. This is because the valve stem seals prevent oil leakage from cam towers down into cylinders...

MkII Supras are known to go through valve stem seals. I did mine and it fixed the problem easily. Just watch the edges of the cam towers.. they're razor sharp. I needed stitches after an encounter with those bastages.
 
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Hmmmm....black smoke...that's never happened yet. Only that white-bluish smoke.

So, vavle seals are a home mechanic job? Great....

And do you gain any ponies from the P&P?

Thanks mucho...
 

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threesixty said:
Hmmmm....black smoke...that's never happened yet. Only that white-bluish smoke.

So, vavle seals are a home mechanic job? Great....
"white-bluish" smoke?

Let me put it this way: blue or black smoke is oil burning and white smoke is water or coolant burning.

Are you SURE there's any white in the smoke? If so, is it only after just starting? That would indicate condensation in your exhaust, which is no big deal.

Valve stem seals can be done by a professional or you. You decide if you want to spend the $$$ on a pro. I did it myself.
 
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Well, it does happen after I start up. But it also smokes after I idle for any length of time. It's definitely not black smoke. It's white with that blue tint to it. I don't know all the "smoke" colors...so what is white to me could be blue to someone else. If it IS white, that's bad news, huh?
 

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threesixty said:
Well, it does happen after I start up. But it also smokes after I idle for any length of time. It's definitely not black smoke. It's white with that blue tint to it. I don't know all the "smoke" colors...so what is white to me could be blue to someone else. If it IS white, that's bad news, huh?
You can tell a lot by _when_ the smoke appears.

It sounds to me like you're saying that it smokes when accelerating after idling. Is that right? Does it smoke at any other time?

Could you summarize in your own words when the car smokes?

White smoke is only bad if you notice coolant loss... are you losing coolant from your catch bottle or rad.?

Don't sweat the color too much... the time at which the car smokes is just as important.
 
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if it is coolant, it would be very apparent (white smoke all of the time), and you would have a definite odor of coolant. I suggest that the first remark is correct - valve seals. If the engine is of high mileage, the rings could also be an issue. A good way to check is have the compresssion measured or have a down draft check made.
 
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if it is coolant, it would be very apparent (white smoke all of the time), and you would have a definite odor of coolant. I suggest that the first remark is correct - valve seals. If the engine is of high mileage, the rings could also be an issue. A good way to check is have the compresssion measured or have a down draft check made.
 

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threesixty said:
Well, it does happen after I start up. But it also smokes after I idle for any length of time. It's definitely not black smoke. It's white with that blue tint to it. I don't know all the "smoke" colors...so what is white to me could be blue to someone else. If it IS white, that's bad news, huh?
Thats the valve stem seals. Light bluish smoke is oil smoke which has a very distinctive odor. On my old 5m the valve stem were pretty bad. Shortly before replacing the 5m I could idle at Jack in the Box for 10 minutes or so then leave and coat the entire block in blue smoke, lol. My favorite, with just a few revs, was to hose the guy behind me inline after I got my food. Even afterward there would still be plenty smoke left over to go all the way though 1st and 2nd gears to give everyone on 15th ave a good a good James Bond smoke screen. :smoker:
 
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Discussion Starter #14
>>
Then take a screwdriver and unscrew the spring keeping keeping the gear in place. Mark the stock location with a ink pen or paint. Then take and move the gear about 3 to 5 clicks clockwise. Tighten the spring again with your trusty screw driver and close the lid. >>

two things:

1. no need to loosen any screws, the screw holds the spring in place, not the wheel - You just need a flathead screwdriver to pull the end of the spring out from between the teeth, and move it by hand. I marked my stock position by using a pocket knife to scratch a notch into the side of the wheel where the spring sits.

2. clockwise tightens the spring, not loosens it... counterclockwise to loosen.


okay, I'm done :)

Vern
 

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Voyn said:
>>
Then take a screwdriver and unscrew the spring keeping keeping the gear in place. Mark the stock location with a ink pen or paint. Then take and move the gear about 3 to 5 clicks clockwise. Tighten the spring again with your trusty screw driver and close the lid. >>

two things:

1. no need to loosen any screws, the screw holds the spring in place, not the wheel - You just need a flathead screwdriver to pull the end of the spring out from between the teeth, and move it by hand. I marked my stock position by using a pocket knife to scratch a notch into the side of the wheel where the spring sits.

2. clockwise tightens the spring, not loosens it... counterclockwise to loosen.



okay, I'm done :)

Vern
It's been many years since I've seen the inside of a 5m afm so I can't remember it perfectly. I guess in the short and sweet I was saying to turn it 5 clicks clockwise as someone told me long ago.
 
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Hey, no hard feelins, I was just sayin' ;)


The "you have to loosen the screw" rumor was originally started in the "Toyota Performance Handbook" which I had the pleasure of seeing recently, and has been handed down ever since. There is no need for it, though.


As for the clockwise or counterclockwise thing... Either way, threesixty, when you open it up, look at the spring and how it is wound into the gear, and you will see which way to turn it. I am 100% sure that you have to turn it counterclockwise, as I have just recently had to turn it the opposite way to tune in my freakin huge 295cc injectors... It is now turned 18 teeth clockwise from stock :) Phew... Mixture seems good, though. And I am getting 28mpg on highway, and surprisingly good mileage in the city as well...


Vern
new 6M with only 350 miles on the clock...
 
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Yea, it is counterclockwise. I did this mod a couple of weeks back. Not a huge difference, but a definitely better throttle response on the low end. Thanks guys.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
simple...

Won't gain any horsepower, but if you're street racing, roll down your windows and crank the heater. This will help keep your eingine cool.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Increase the timing... For the AFM I would do 2 or 3 notches.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
i just did a cold-air intake mod for my 84 Supra for free.... Well, almost free. I paid about $2.50 for a plastic funnel that i used. here's what I did:
1. Cut 2 inch diameter hole with a Dremmel in sheetmetal behind the passenger headlight right near my K&N cone air filter (the area where the horn is mounted. Had to re-locate horn). Make sure to place it low enough so that the headlight dosen't hit it.
2. Modified a rectangular oil funnel to fit behind the far intake port of the airdam & bored out the small hole to 2 inches.
3. Attached a 2 inch flexible, aluminum heater hose from the funnel to the hole in the sheetmetal.

Voila! Instant cold-air intake system!
 
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