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Discussion Starter #1
what u think of this idea... im a bout to buy a fpr and i was thinking..

with the pulsation damper removed and the cold start injector removed...

would there be any benefit in using the cold start injector position on the rail for the fuel return and using the old return and damper spot as a 'dual feed' tye setup??

what u think?
 

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Sure it would benefit any high HP application that requires more fuel than just the stock feed.
Not a new idea though. Many on this forum have already done it.

Peace
 

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Not usually till well over 500HP as far as the stock fuel lines and rail is concerned. Up until that point, it's the fuel pump and injectors that will tell the tale.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i dont know how to compare us hp to australian hp but i know u guys are ahell of alot higher then ours for some reason... im running a gt3040r and 550cc with a walbro pump, aiming for approx 360-400 rwhp max, as thats what i think these engines are good 4. do u think im wasting my time on braided lines and fittings try to run two inlets?? if not is their any difference between blocking either the coldstart injector and using the original fuel return or vice versa
 

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disturbed1 said:
i dont know how to compare us hp to australian hp but i know u guys are ahell of alot higher then ours for some reason... im running a gt3040r and 550cc with a walbro pump, aiming for approx 360-400 rwhp max, as thats what i think these engines are good 4. do u think im wasting my time on braided lines and fittings try to run two inlets?? if not is their any difference between blocking either the coldstart injector and using the original fuel return or vice versa
Unless you figure on upgrading to higher HP in the future, yes you would be wasting your time. A Walbro and 550s won't outrun your stock fuel line setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
im guessing that would be 18 psi.... before i had a mhk arp studs fmic with 2.5 inch pipes full exhaust safc hiflow 60-1 turbo, 550 cc injectors fuel pump and made 305 rwhp at 14psi




thats before and after hiflow. i was just running a bleedvalve to control boost and as u can see the stock ct26 would just not flow enough air to keep a steady boost level

u can also see the timing issues i have in the mid range although u couldnt feel it when driving - i dont know how these guys on 7mpower make 500 and 600 rwhp with jus a safc
 

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Discussion Starter #10
sorry mat ecan u explain that tlast post - i forgot to mention im running a lexus afm... but no fpr.. do u think the lack of fuel pressure reg and leaving the j-tube in place could be a possible reason as to why my car ran a little funning when feathereing the throtle kinda stubled and shit..
 

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You were saying that you don't know how those guys on 7M were making that kind of power with an SAFC. I was just listing the reasons why they are.

No telling how much fuel pressure your running unless you have a gauge on it.
Your fuel pressure wouldn't run any lower by having the J tube in place. The J tube would only make it harder to lower the FP if you had the AFPR to do so.
 

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Well I really hadn't said anything about your timing but timing would be more SAFC related then turbo size. When you pull fuel with the SAFC, your tricking your ECU into thinking there's less air coming in therefore it supplies less fuel but it also adds more timing when you pull fuel. That's why I was saying that many tuners pull fuel at the AFPR so they won't have to pull it at the SAFC.
 

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i would probly look at small vacuum leaks or restrictions in your ic piping or similar

i ran:
46trim ct26
2.5" i/c hardpipes
550x300x75 i/c
9psi
stock fuel system
3" exhaust from stock elbow back
9.4:1 cr
280whp on 9psi

it could be the compression had alot to do with it but i'm not sure
 

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lots of people use the FPR port as a return. seems stupid to me since you're feeding 2 inj w/1 inlet and 4 w/the other....i just drilled/tapped a new return in the center and used the CSI port for my fuel press gauge....
 

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tookwik4u89 said:
I agree with doc J, I ran -8 from tank, split to 2 -6, one to old fuel regulator port, one to pulse dampener port, and used the cold start port for return to AFPR. I dont drive much in winter and it just takes a couple tries to get it goin in cold weather.
Isn't that what disturbed1 described in the first post? One to the FPR port, one to the pulsation dampener port and use the CS inj for the return?
 
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