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Discussion Starter #1
hey whats going on guys, before you guys say use the search button, i just want to say that i have used it, and have been following Trolls build thread that basically inspired me to do my own wire tuck, and have not come up with a clear description how to button things up.

I have finished everything and its all in the back by the stock sub location.


what i want to know is how the Battery, alternator, starter, fuse box, and circut breaker come all together. I drew up a diagram to my best understanding of how it should go back together. Let me know if i have to change it in any way.

Basically in words it goes like this,

Neg side of battery----> ground
Fuse box gets a feed of the positive side of battery
then the Positive side of battery goes to the batt side of 150amp Circut Breaker
the stock alternator wire i will just connect to the alternator side of circut breaker.
use a 0 gauge wire from alternator to 150 amp circut breaker
use 2 gauge wire from alternator to starter.

am i missing something ?
 

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I just did mine and while i didnt relocate the fuse box, at least not yet ;) I did

Battery ( - ) to ground
Battery ( + ) to 150 amp
150 amp ( + ) to alt 1/0 gauge
starter to alt 2 gauge
fuse box to starter which just " T " there to get power since it connects to the ALT
I left the two white wires at the ALT that runs to the fuse box for the 120 amp fuse.

While i have not completely finished i need to wire in the kill switch to make it NHRA legal.







 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah well it looks like we have the same concept.

My biggest worry is those two wires going to alt ... Can I just hook it up to the alt side of the circut breaker like in my diagram (silver line)

Everythin else seems to line up with yours. Thank you for your response.


This is where it sits now.
 

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Honestly the two wires that connect to the alt and goes to the fuse box would essentially be double protected, 120 amp relay and then the breaker. I was going to remove the two wires and the relay and it would be protected via the breaker, thats the reason you went with a 150 amp breaker is to protect the alt that is rated at 120.

Id look around more but if it were me i would do it this way. I would want to turn the breaker off and have power going to absolutly nothing. Essentially if you did it the way you showed up in post # 1you would still have power to the fuse box because its before the breaker. So you shut the breaker off and power still runs through the fuse box and whatever is conected to the fuse box. Im at work ill post on my next brake lol

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok so no need to even run those two wires... Just leave them disconnected??

Perfect! Make my life a whole lot easier. Thanx trailboss for clearing that up.

I also want to turn the braker off and have no power to the whole car( parking at the mall or someplace where I can't see my car) another failsafe against theft I guess.
 

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Have you PMed TROLL about his lol. His setup is almost identical to yours and i would be curious if he did also remove the 120 amp and wiring that goes to the ALT and just left it protected VIA the breaker.

I went through just about every single picture he had to see what he did but seems like he is missing a few pics once he gets the fuse box in the trunk.

Personally when i re locate the fuse box i will not run the 120 amp wire to the ALT because it will be protected at the breaker although it would be protected at 30 amps more than the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did pm him and told him to call me with my number and he never did.
I also noticed he was missing a lot of Steps with the fuse box relocate, that is why I'm asking now.

I think it should be fine with the 150 amp breaker. I have a week or so till my car is finished, so I will leave this thread open and the wiring for last untill other people chime in.

Hopefully it's simple as not running the stock amp wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Theoretically speaking.

If I ran the 120amp wires from fuse box to the alternator side of the 150 amp circut breaker, technically speaking if anything went to shit the 120 would trigger first then the 150

So it wouldn't hurt to run them there as my diagram???? What's your opinion on this, or is it overkill?
 

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Yes it would be double protected wouldn't hurt but as you know sucks to wire that shit, alot easier than the fuse box relocation ;)
 

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Now thinking more about the relocation I obviously removed the stock negative ground wiring that went from the block to chassis and then chassis to negative terminal.

I upgraded it to two gauge and went

Block to chassis ground, 2 gauge.
Then in the rear I went negative terminal to chassis ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah I'm doing the same exact thing with the negatives and the block.

Yeah extending that 120 amp wire to the circut breaker was a PITA, that's why I didn't wanna do it all over again to the alternator.

I might just not even connect them, and only use the 150.
 

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Hey,
I don't remember a message asking me to give you a call but its possible, things have been more hectic and disorganized than ever for me lately to be honest. Does my thread have any dead links to pictures, or did I just not photograph what you're curious about? I do have many more photos posted in my photobucket galleries if you want to look more in depth on things, but its a LOT of photos so you might be there a while, haha.
To see all the photos, follow this link and then look at all of the 'sub-albums' listed on the right... they're named by date so you can either look at them all or you can try to identify a rough date you're looking for in the project and look at those photos specifically: http://s324.photobucket.com/albums/k353/btroll/Supra/

As for your diagram (reposted below), its pretty close to what I did except without the gray wire. I removed the stock wiring completely (pictured in gray in your diagram I think). I ran all the red wiring just like you did, and I am allowing the main fuse in the fuse box protect the entire fuse box. I believe its an 80A or 120A fuse, not sure offhand, but that should be fine, it has been for my car.

 

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Hey,
I don't remember a message asking me to give you a call but its possible, things have been more hectic and disorganized than ever for me lately to be honest. Does my thread have any dead links to pictures, or did I just not photograph what you're curious about? I do have many more photos posted in my photobucket galleries if you want to look more in depth on things, but its a LOT of photos so you might be there a while, haha.
To see all the photos, follow this link and then look at all of the 'sub-albums' listed on the right... they're named by date so you can either look at them all or you can try to identify a rough date you're looking for in the project and look at those photos specifically: http://s324.photobucket.com/albums/k353/btroll/Supra/

As for your diagram (reposted below), its pretty close to what I did except without the gray wire. I removed the stock wiring completely (pictured in gray in your diagram I think). I ran all the red wiring just like you did, and I am allowing the main fuse in the fuse box protect the entire fuse box. I believe its an 80A or 120A fuse, not sure offhand, but that should be fine, it has been for my car.
Sweet man, when i relocate my fuse box this winter it gives me less to wire up and extend. Only thing wouldnt you want the fuse box to go after the breaker so when you shut it off power to everything gets killed.

Even though my fuse box is not relocated the way it is now power gets cut off when i flip the breaker when the car sits for a while and sits on a battery tender.
 

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I was wrong, glad what you said made me realize that. I do have everything going through the circuit breaker so when I trip it it cuts power to everything. You can see the battery goes to the breaker, then I have 2 wires coming off the breaker, one goes to the front of the car and the other over to the fuse box.



 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yup exactly what I was looking for... We had a few pms about the shell I had as a parts car, and I slipped the question with my number in one of those pms ... So considering u were running around at that time you could have easaly forgotten.


But thank you for chiming in ... I will remove the gray wiring and just wire it up just how you have it. Your build thread had everything except that you removed the gray wires leading up to the alternator

Thanx brotha!
 

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[/img]

This should clarify how I did it although I think you're already set.

Of course I am utilizing the original main fuse to protect the fuse box, and I am using the 150A circuit breaker which you can also see pictured here. There is a very short 0 AWG wire going from the positive terminal on the battery to the breaker.

unedited pic:
 

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When I did mine... I ran 0 gauge to the engine bay and used a distribution block, to attach the wire for the starter and the wire to the fusebox. In the hatch, the 0 gauge is in the 200A breaker, with another 0 gauge run to battery. I had a 120A breaker, but this one looks cooler. The only other thing I did, was run power from battery to my amp (which only turns on w/remote signal from head unit). I plan to rewire the amp, to the other side of the breaker eventually.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm all set thanx to you guys .... Just waiting on my turbo from Reid at SP and then motor goes back in :)

Thanx everyone for their help, had the basic idea but it's good to double check with you Vets haha.
I'll update when car is all together.
 

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Hey guys. I know this is a dead post but I learned the most from this thread. I just purchased a supra from united kingdom. I live in Chicago Illinois. This is going to be one of my first bigger projects on the car. I just want to clarify what you guys did once you got the power to the engine bay.

Did you run it to a distribution block and then run a wire to the starter and a wire to the alt? Or did you just keep it inline? Like straight to the starter and from there straight to the alt?
 
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