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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I bought a fuelab power module 92902 intank fuel pump which flows 190 gallons of fuel an hour. I drilled, and cut the stock collar of the tank where original pump was bolted in, and installed the 92902. The pump sits an inch below the stock baffles.

To solve this issue I bought a sump to weld in under the pump.
I figured if I cut a hole wide enough I could drop the sock, and pickup tube from the power module into the sump.

The bottom of the tank directly under the pump would now become the top baffle of the sump. The pickup tube, and sock would drop into the sump which would provide continuous fuel for the pump under all conditions.

I already have the pump it's not going back so who thinks this is a bad idea. Wreckless?

The picture with the sump placed directly in the center is where I proposed to put the sump to be utilized only as a trough to sit the pickup tube and sock into.
I figured the Bottom of the tank becomes the top baffle keeping fuel in the sump during all conditions.
 

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Any guesses as to the liquid volume of the original baffle, vs the volume of the new sump? If they're close, I think you're good. However, turning to another thought, it runs in my mind the original baffle has holes against the bottom of the tank allowing fuel in from the bottom, where your new sump will become only a "top loader".

That may not be an issue except when you are really, really low on fuel and driving like a maniac. The sloshing fuel may whiz right over top of the "top loader" sump, or what does whiz into the top loader sump may be significantly aerated versus the original (splattering against the pump as it falls into the new sump, etc). If you look and agree this is an issue, it would be wise to weld on a few fin-like projections to stop that fuel whizzing over the new sump opening and guide some/most of it down into the sump.
 

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Fun stuff!

So those weld in lower sumps are really designed to provide a feed line for an external pump. Yes, using one like this as a lower sump area to make more room for a bigass in-tank pump is absolutely doable if needed. I'd just be very mindful of the pump sock size and orientation from where you've got the mount placed, so you don't end up cutting too much of the tank in the wrong place.

I'd say do a pilot hole directly beneath the new pump hanger section, and orient the sump from there.
I'd also ensure that whatever you do for a return line, that the return line drains into that lower sump section.

How are you planning to control the pump? I'm assuming you're going with a PWM control output from a standalone?
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Fun stuff!

So those weld in lower sumps are really designed to provide a feed line for an external pump. Yes, using one like this as a lower sump area to make more room for a bigass in-tank pump is absolutely doable if needed. I'd just be very mindful of the pump sock size and orientation from where you've got the mount placed, so you don't end up cutting too much of the tank in the wrong place.

I'd say do a pilot hole directly beneath the new pump hanger section, and orient the sump from there.
I'd also ensure that whatever you do for a return line, that the return line drains into that lower sump section.

How are you planning to control the pump? I'm assuming you're going with a PWM control output from a standalone?
PRO EFI will be running the pump setup as a pwm configuration.

So here it comes I told the gut doing the sump to do it just as you mentioned Wreckless. he
Fun stuff!

So those weld in lower sumps are really designed to provide a feed line for an external pump. Yes, using one like this as a lower sump area to make more room for a bigass in-tank pump is absolutely doable if needed. I'd just be very mindful of the pump sock size and orientation from where you've got the mount placed, so you don't end up cutting too much of the tank in the wrong place.

I'd say do a pilot hole directly beneath the new pump hanger section, and orient the sump from there.
I'd also ensure that whatever you do for a return line, that the return line drains into that lower sump section.

How are you planning to control the pump? I'm assuming you're going with a PWM control output from a standalone?

Yes on all points mentioned Wreckless, and Doug. I wanted not to do a sump and external pump However; I suggested doing this and a friend with a Celica GTS ran with it and it worked. I followed him but my tank is not as tall as the Celica tank.
I took the tank to a tig welder that I know that claims to build sump and baffle fuel tanks.
Well he cut the tank opposite of where I explained how I wanted it done in this thread. He said he did this because it would not work. So now he can't figure out how to make it work with the sump in the traditional place that sumps go because the pickup tube needs to have 2 tight radius 90 degree bends, which I am against anyway.

Soooo...the tank has a big gaping hole unbaffled, and no direct answer how to make this work. Any ideas 💡 🤔. I am not sure if ot will work as I suggested.
I may try to find a new tank. The more you mod the more Modding needs to be done sometimes because of unforseen issues of the pickup tube and pump being too big.lol
 

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So long as the sump location cleared the tank straps I can't imagine why it 'wouldn't work'.

I'd emphatically avoid a snorkel pipe to the sock, that is a terrible restriction to have at the inlet of the pump and overall pump performance will suffer significantly. Nevermind the risk of having all that stuff fail or fall off somehow and thereby leave your pump suddenly sucking air.

I'd say use this tank as a mock-up and try to patch it into functionality. Perhaps with a new fabricator that doesn't do random different shit you didn't ask for before talking to you about it.

I'd probably patch the new pump hanger location and move it to a new spot where you can easily have the sump added without interrupting the tank straps or anything else. If you have to cut a new hole in the hatch area to access the pump hanger then that's just race car life, I'm afraid.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
So long as the sump location cleared the tank straps I can't imagine why it 'wouldn't work'.

I'd emphatically avoid a snorkel pipe to the sock, that is a terrible restriction to have at the inlet of the pump and overall pump performance will suffer significantly. Nevermind the risk of having all that stuff fail or fall off somehow and thereby leave your pump suddenly sucking air.

I'd say use this tank as a mock-up and try to patch it into functionality. Perhaps with a new fabricator that doesn't do random different shit you didn't ask for before talking to you about it.

I'd probably patch the new pump hanger location and move it to a new spot where you can easily have the sump added without interrupting the tank straps or anything else. If you have to cut a new hole in the hatch area to access the pump hanger then that's just race car life, I'm afraid.
Yes, Thanks a lot Wreckless I was thinking of taking the tank and repairing it with 304 stainless strip and having it done like I wanted it done. Which gauge of metal should I buy 18 or 16 gauge.

I posed this question here because I have been arguing with this guy about how I wanted it done vs how he just did it his way. Now that he is clueless about how to go forward I feel that my way was the best way to have this done.
Had he drilled holes the stock plastic baffle would have aided in keeping fuel where it needed to be because it would have been before the sock and partly over the sump.
 

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Anthony! Nice to see you around still bud.

That is a nice project!

So before you go welding a sump back there... Here is an alternative that i see the high HP BMW guys using... it is fairly new tech (within the last 10 years) and works pretty damn good

Holley Hydramats

check out youtube for how they work...
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Anthony! Nice to see you around still bud.

That is a nice project!

So before you go welding a sump back there... Here is an alternative that i see the high HP BMW guys using... it is fairly new tech (within the last 10 years) and works pretty damn good

Holley Hydramats

check out youtube for how they work...
8

Hey Figgie, I saw that in a video yesterday. It comes in all kinds of shapes and sizes. The tank needs to be sumped because the guy cut the drain plug..
I ordered 16 gauge 304 stainless 12x24 to fill the big gaping holes and to add a baffle.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I TALKED TO FUELAB TODAY, and I was assured that the HYDRAMAT would be a viable solution. More mods, more problems, more money to fix the problem. Something so simple should not have cost so much. This is why I learned to do most of the work myself. I hate to pay people for crappy work, or to break things and deny that they broke them when I am not trying to cheap out.

Thanks everyone for your response, good idea Figgie. How's your project coming along Figgie.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Sorry for the rand question, but dia/pitch are those bolts for the hanger cap?
Those bolts replace the 7mgte stock pump hanger collar that the pump is attached to. I had to do quite a bit of messaging to get it precise. If anyone does try this the 1000hp pump is shorter and should work. Good luck with your build!

BTW there is a weld in top that attaches to the stock collar. You just have to cut a 3 inch circle in the pump hanger, and weld the weld on cap for the pump to it. This allows you to install without cutting the tank. If your stock hanger is in good condition that's a viable way to go also.
 

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Those bolts replace the 7mgte stock pump hanger collar that the pump is attached to. I had to do quite a bit of messaging to get it precise. If anyone does try this the 1000hp pump is shorter and should work. Good luck with your build!

BTW there is a weld in top that attaches to the stock collar. You just have to cut a 3 inch circle in the pump hanger, and weld the weld on cap for the pump to it. This allows you to install without cutting the tank. If your stock hanger is in good condition that's a viable way to go also.
Ah I see, thanks for the info. I think your pump setup was a great choice- unfortunate about your fabricator but I'm looking forward to see how you make it work.
I went the staged 2x walbro 450 route. No welding, but assembly is a pain and it may actually be impossible to get them back out 🤡
 
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