I guess i am left with three questions:
1: What else is needed to put a GE head on a GTE block?
2: What must i do to get ARP head studs for a TT on the NA?
3: dumb question: What difference between 264 and 272 cams? What should i use for my street app? 264?
Hey thanks for all your help guys
Kapil, I couldn't specifically answer the first 2 questions but I'd imagine very little else is required - it should essentially be a bolt up affair. Same with respect to the ARP head studs - just follow their installation instructions to the letter, particularly their torque down specs with regard to the lube used.
With regard to your third question, the 264 and 272 refer to the advertised duration of the cams. The 272 has a slighly longer duration than the 264 cam - ie it is slighly lumpier. However, there are a few other specs we need before we can fully answer your answer. Need to know the duration @ 50 thou lift and also the total lift. Lobe separation angle (LSA) is handy and, because (I presume) they will be fitted to a turbo motor, you need to know how much overlap there will be. I imagine you are talking about some commercial readily available cams over there, so most of this info should be out there.
PS: before you blow good money on the exhaust cam, remember that these cams are generally made for the GTE, so they will not have the gear to drive the distributor. Ask before you buy.
You shouldn't need anything to put the GE head on a GTE block. All the sensors that where in the GE block will fit on the GTE block. There may be a place for a crank angle sensor that the NA's don't have that will have to be blocked?
The ARP head stud kit for the TT will also work on the NA. I just got mine from Powerhouse and they assured me that it would work on the NA - nothing different.
As for cam duration. It really is dependent on what kind of hoursepower on the street you are looking for. 264's should be plenty but that may even be overkill. For the small amount of additional power that cams will provide in a street driven application I would spend the money elsewere, like on a new cooling system( Fluidyne, TRD thermostat, electric fans) that will add 1% horsepower for every 11 degrees your car runs cooler.
I wouldn't upgrade the radiator or add an electric fan either unless you're SURE you need it. The electric fans seem to almost be more trouble than they're worth from folks I know who have run them and at around 600RWHP I have ZERO cooling issues on the stock stuff. Spend those bux elsewhere unless you see issues. If I were to run an electric fan I'd be adapting one from another OEM application - some of the OEM fans out there move a TON of air! I WOULD be interested in knowing if a lower temp thermostat is gaining power for anyone.
What are you doing for electronics aka engine management? Fueling? These things will become important pretty quickly!
as of current,
RPS clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, ARP Head studs, GTE block and head gasket, new oil / water pumps, maintainence stuff.
Crower regrinded cams, Crower Springs and Retainers (sent my cams out yesterday), SAFCII.
Within a month: Walbro Fuel pump, TRD Engine mounts.
Within a month, ordering: oil lines, intercooler, Greddy turbo timer and boost controller.
Within 2 months, ordering: Dave H special T61 kit, likely with a 40 or 42mm wastegate.
Within 3 months: Final stuff goes into vehicle with custom intercooler piping. Go turbo.
These are the plans...thanks again for everyones help.
Oh, i guess i will have a block for sale with a spun bearing in cylinder 6 if anyone is interested. No set price...make offer.
I had some overheating issues while in traffic in the middle of summer in south Florida so thats why I switched to the TRD thermostat, electric fans and Fluidyne radiator = no more problem . I've had my electrics in for 3 years now with no problems.
I do agree with BLKMGK on the fuel issue. I didn't see anywhere in your list of goodies upgraded injectors. Just running a new fuel pump and an AFC isn't going to magically make your stock fuel injectors flow more than 315cc/min.
Well this is what they look like installed into the block. There are no issues that I noticed installing them. I put the headgasket and the head on this evening and started putting on the nuts and found that one of the nuts that ARP supplied me with had no threads . So anyway now I'm waiting on one lousy nut so I can torque eveything down and finish something that I had hoped would only take a week or two which is now going on a month for different reasons.
Got my nut in the mail from ARP Christmas eve. Everything is in and torqued down, cams and gears are on with no problems. I got sick yesterday, damn flu, so I probably won't get much accomplished this weekend.