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Discussion Starter #1
ok guys,ive been gathering well hoarding parts for my build and this is what i have so far..i appreciate it if you guys can give me some advice or tell me anything else that i am missing that i can add on..my car currently has 181,xxx miles and i wanted a fresh rebuild with a main goal of anything that pump gas can get me..dont care for drag or dyno numbers..just want a reliable car
for the stock head 2jzgte non-vvti
-BC springs and titanium retainers
-BC locks
-BC 264 cams
-GSC valve seals
-ARP head studs

-for the shortblock
CP 9:1 pistons with upgraded .200 wrist pins
-BC rods with arp 2000 bolts
-PHR modified oil pump
-OEM toyota Full gasket kit
-arp main studs
-titan tension bracket
-welded crank trigger wheel
-fluidampner crank pull
the car already has brand new timing belt and water pump which i will be using again
i am having a very reputable machine shop by the name of WRE machine shop here in new york do my machine work and assemble the motor which in total will run me $1900 for the short block with there bearings (ACL) and to assemble the head ($600)

the car will be currently on a GFORCE/VPC/SAFC combo for now
 

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I would get a thicker wrist pin if i were you... 0.230 minimum
 

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Discussion Starter #3
for a car that wont see anything above 600 hp, cp claims that there .150 can handle up to 800 HP so just for insurance i went with a .200
 

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for a car that wont see anything above 600 hp, cp claims that there .150 can handle up to 800 HP so just for insurance i went with a .200
I agree.. but that 600hp # you have as a goal might be 1000 in 2 years. Just saying.

Pins are like $125 extra
 

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Discussion Starter #5
your right , but trust me..i use to care about HP numbers and who reaches a quarter mile quicker..as the old f**k i am now ..i grew out of those things..i could of did a dam stock rebuild and i would of been good lol..but with all the stuff available for our cars why not just put quality parts for the hell of it
 

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your right , but trust me..i use to care about HP numbers and who reaches a quarter mile quicker..as the old f**k i am now ..i grew out of those things..i could of did a dam stock rebuild and i would of been good lol..but with all the stuff available for our cars why not just put quality parts for the hell of it
I am in the same boat as you.. ended up building the bottom end and it just keeps adding up.

My tuner (Chris Delgado) insisted that i get .250 wrist pins, he seen too many break and bend with these new low end tq turbos. So just passing along some advise i got.

I personally have not seen a broken .200 pin.. Just went for it cause i as told to. Other people can chime in

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #7
your absolutly right, but for those who are breaking or bending wrist pins are either revving the crap out of there cars or just dyno queens who are pushing over 1200-1400 hp ..or even hitting the nitrous

i still believe that CP should of just gave us a dam .200 or .230 standard no?
 

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i went with a .250 wrist pin for my build. if the motor is apart just do it right the first time so you have peace of mind driving the car. i would step up to atleast a .230 you say 600hp now but i guarantee you will want more hp in the future lol
 

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your absolutly right, but for those who are breaking or bending wrist pins are either revving the crap out of there cars or just dyno queens who are pushing over 1200-1400 hp ..or even hitting the nitrous

i still believe that CP should of just gave us a dam .200 or .230 standard no?
Ya i think its silly.. more of a money maker.
 

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I just finshed a rebuild similar to yours. Here are a few more things to consider:
  • A new pulley set, machined, polished, or anodized. For a couple hundred bucks your newly rebuilt engine can have fresh pulleys.
  • New upper and lower radiator hoses. They get old and crack, and have been removed for your build. And they are cheap. Get the '98-style upper hose because of the better angle.
  • New flywheel bolts.
  • The following gaskets don't come with the complete rebuild gasket kit:
    • Oil cooler gasket/o-ring 15785-35010
    • Oil cooler seal/gasket 90301-61003
    • Oil cooler relief valve o-ring 90201-22010
    • And there's one more...I forget...I think the one between the oil cooler bracket and the block, or maybe it's the one between the oil cooler and the bracket.
  • A new gasket and nuts for the lower O2 sensor (under the car)
    • O2 sensor (lower) gasket 89466-20020-83
    • O2 sensor (lower) nuts x2 90179-08059
  • Exhaust manifold nuts x12 90182-A0011 because they get rusty
  • "Chimney" nuts x2 90182-A0009 because they get rusty
  • Heatshield bolts x4 because they get rusty and break
 

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Also, EGR delete, done the right way...inside the head.

I also had my valve covers powdercoated and spark plug cover painted satin black, because the rest of the engine was so clean and pretty.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
sounds good , already have the EGR deleted but i will do it the right way since this will be out, good to know about those gaskets as well that is not included

thanks :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
switch the .200 wrist pins for the .250 and ordered new pulleys...anything else you guys would recommend
 

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switch the .200 wrist pins for the .250 and ordered new pulleys...anything else you guys would recommend
One thing i regret not doing - Billet Mains. That seems to be the next weak point in your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
geez smh, expense doesnt stop lol..i know i read so much regarding these billet mains..but i really think thats for cars that will exceed over 800 hp no?
 

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geez smh, expense doesnt stop lol..i know i read so much regarding these billet mains..but i really think thats for cars that will exceed over 800 hp no?
Well, you asked what we recommend.. lol, i know its never ending.

What i have been reading, its more when the TQ hits and where it is in the power band. Stock mains are known to crack with not just hp, they are at risk when car misfires or wheel hops. I would not get too much hung up on hp numbers.

It depends on what turbo/fuel etc.

The main studs will probably make them stronger... i still cannot find one thread where someone cracked the stock mains with ARP studs. That said, i still regret not doing them. It's just on my mind that one day one will crack.

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i hear that, plus i know where your coming from ..since your in there might as well do them now kind of thing just for peace of mind..i just hope the machine shop wont charge more just by adding billet mains..do they require more machine work? machine work and assembling my head is running already $2500 !
 

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i hear that, plus i know where your coming from ..since your in there might as well do them now kind of thing just for peace of mind..i just hope the machine shop wont charge more just by adding billet mains..do they require more machine work? machine work and assembling my head is running already $2500 !
Oh yeah, billet mains require machine work - Line Hone. Add another $2k
 
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