[Guest]

First off let me say that MKIV is an awsome site for newbies and the search function here helps a ton too.

I have a few questions about going from stock to BPU. I have searched on here after learning about everything on MKIV. Well here thy are:

1. Is it true for about $2k I can have 400rwhp?

2. I searched I noticed alot of people have problems w/ over boosting after BPU, what can control this? (I think its an electric boost controler or something that helps?)

3. Once I go BPU should I get a my car tuned or is there no need?

4. Once I can control my Boost will 10 -12 psi be fine for DD use and for the stock turbos? I know MKIV said up to 15 is fine, but I don't have a ton of cash to fix stuff at the moment.

5. Is there a way to tell if the stock turbos are going bad, before they actually go bad?

6. Is everything on MKIVs faq pretty much truth?


Thats it , Thanks

 

[Justin187]

http://www.suprastore.com/450hppackage.html

Read this, should help you with some of your answers...

 

[Guest]

Thanks,

It helped alot.

I read that the fuel pump and fuel injectors need to be replaced at 500rwhp., is that about right? If so anyone got an estamite on what it would cost to buy upgraded pump and injectors and install? I know I need to take it slow, but its kinda adictive seeing how much power you can get for not too much money.

 

[Guest]

Sorry for this guys, but I am confused.

If I have a boost controller that means I can control the boost correct? Well I am looking into the above mentioned site and it talks about all the udgrades and I got to BPU++, it says that puts the car at 13-15psi in cooler weather. Isn't that getting close to max psi for a DD? And if I have a boost controller couldn't I adjust the psi down some, if I didn't need that much hp for cruising or going to work?

I don't know maybe I am being parnoid and I know I can't be fully understanding everything.

 

[Krister]

When you are BPU, the mimimun you can run is about 15-17psi. If you want to run less, put on the stock downpipe. 15-17psi should be fine for 93oct pump gas.

And I dont see what the problem is. It's not like your running 15psi all the way to work, you only get 15-17psi when you go WOT. Your not driving at full throttle to work, are you?

 

[Krister]

I read that the fuel pump and fuel injectors need to be replaced at 500rwhp., is that about right? If so anyone got an estamite on what it would cost to buy upgraded pump and injectors and install? I know I need to take it slow, but its kinda adictive seeing how much power you can get for not too much money.

Use the Search feature on the forums. No need for upgrading the injectors and pump on stock twins, they dont flow enough to get 500rwhp. I think the max power anyone has squeezed out of them is about ~470rwhp, and that was BPU+++++

 

[snausa]

15 - 17 PSI is not a problem on premium fuel. You will be just fine. With race fuel or a Toulene mix, I occasionally go higher.

... and like Krister said, it's not like you have to do highway pulls at WOT all the way in to the office.

 

[Guest]

Thank you. I just needed some clarification. I will continue to search.

So if I wanted to go single, besides the the turbo kit itself, injectors, and fuel pump, what else is needed to go single then? Does it really need to be installed by a shop?

 

[noct]

If you don't know what you're doing i would suggest letting a shop do the work.

 

[Guest]

If you don't know what you're doing i would suggest letting a shop do the work.

lol! Yeah I read alot of horror stories while searching.

So w/ going BPU++, asuming my car would be atleast 400+ rwhp. Is it a good idea to get a good BOV? I read where alot of people use two, but say you only need it over 500hp. So would two ond a BPU++ car be overkill?

I also read alot about tons of problems people have related to BOV not working properly, etc..

 

[F1V]

Use the Search feature on the forums. No need for upgrading the injectors and pump on stock twins, they dont flow enough to get 500rwhp. I think the max power anyone has squeezed out of them is about ~470rwhp, and that was BPU+++++

Didn't one of the big tuners of Supras here squeeze 510+rwhp out of the stock fuel system with just upgraded injectors? Or was it the complete stock fuel system?

 

[IGGYWOOWOO]

Easy guys... Looks like this newbie has some good questions. Not the typical dumbass newbie questions. I know I get pissed when people just say search. Sometimes searching is not conclusive. Newone tell us if you have a MKIV and if it is a standard or auto. Tell us about the condition of your car. The Supra is the ultimate DIY tuner car.

 

[Guest]

Easy guys... Looks like this newbie has some good questions. Not the typical dumbass newbie questions. I know I get pissed when people just say search. Sometimes searching is not conclusive. Newone tell us if you have a MKIV and if it is a standard or auto. Tell us about the condition of your car. The Supra is the ultimate DIY tuner car.

Thanks,

Yes I own a '94 MKIV w/ 108k miles. It is in excellent completly stock condition and its a manual tranny.

I am thinking of maybe selling her, or selling my Jeep and buying a newer tt, like a '97 w/ under 70k miles. Either way I am going BPU++, but there is soooo much info and everyone's car seems to react differently.

Can someone please answer the rest of my first questions atleast. (I know some got answered) I tried not to make them to newbish and if they are sorry, but I couldn't find a clear answer to them.

 

[LLCoolJ94]

1. BPU should be somewhere around 2k, yes.

Exhaust: anywhere from 400 to 1k depending on choice. Whichever you choose will not have much effect on power gains over another at BPU level.

Downpipe: 300

Boost Controller: 300 to 650 approximately depending on choice. Which one you choose, WILL have an effect on performance. I love the HKS EVC, the new Greddy Profec B Spec II isn't a bad choice, and the APR is supposed to be good as well.

Greddy BCC: 95 or something like that.

Blow off valve: 220 to 500. Usually for BPU 220 to 270, the 500 item is the HKS Type II Racing bov.

Turbo timer: 95 or close to it.

Air filter: K & N is about 65. There are more expensive units that range up to the 350 range. K & N will suffice.

Boost gauge: about 200 for 60mm and slightly less for 52mm.

EGT gauge: same as boost gauge.

One more thing, I forgot to mention, for 6 spds, you will NEED to upgrade your clutch, or at least the flywheel. The RPS Stage III or RPS blue, will take care of all of your power needs and will work with the stock disc. I believe the item is a little under 700.

2. A *good boost controller should prevent this. Sometimes the wastegate can malfunction too.

3. If you don't get it tuned, it will run rich at BPU. There is NO need to get it tuned, but if you do, you will see improved performance and no more running rich.

4. 16-19psi won't break anything as long as you don't go WOT down every road. You can turn the bc off and run 15psi with aftermarket dp.

5. Smoke, death whine (use search, there are clips of this sound), no more boosting, sometimes it boosts, sometimes not, you WILL know if they are going bad; you just don't turn on your car one day and they are bad.

6. The FAQ is all truth. also has a great FAQ section, everything else on is BS so don't waste your time.

Take care!

Joe

 

[F1V]

1. BPU should be somewhere around 2k, yes.

Exhaust: anywhere from 400 to 1k depending on choice. Whichever you choose will not have much effect on power gains over another at BPU level.

Downpipe: 300

Boost Controller: 300 to 650 approximately depending on choice. Which one you choose, WILL have an effect on performance. I love the HKS EVC, the new Greddy Profec B Spec II isn't a bad choice, and the APR is supposed to be good as well.

Greddy BCC: 95 or something like that.

Blow off valve: 220 to 500. Usually for BPU 220 to 270, the 500 item is the HKS Type II Racing bov.

Turbo timer: 95 or close to it.

Air filter: K & N is about 65. There are more expensive units that range up to the 350 range. K & N will suffice.

Boost gauge: about 200 for 60mm and slightly less for 52mm.

EGT gauge: same as boost gauge.

2. A *good boost controller should prevent this. Sometimes the wastegate can malfunction too.

3. If you don't get it tuned, it will run rich at BPU. There is NO need to get it tuned, but if you do, you will see improved performance and no more running rich.

4. 16-19psi won't break anything as long as you don't go WOT down every road. You can turn the bc off and run 15psi with aftermarket dp.

5. Smoke, death whine (use search, there are clips of this sound), no more boosting, sometimes it boosts, sometimes not, you WILL know if they are going bad; you just don't turn on your car one day and they are bad.

6. The FAQ is all truth. also has a great FAQ section, everything else on is BS so don't waste your time.

Take care!

Joe

This is a post that should DEFINATELY go into the FAQ section. Nice post LLcoolJ94

 

[Guest]

This is a post that should DEFINATELY go into the FAQ section. Nice post LLcoolJ94

OMG!

Thank you very much Joe!

Yes this would be great for the FAQ.

 

[LLCoolJ94]

newone: did you get my email?

 

[Guest]

newone: did you get my email?

I checked and I didn't get it. I'll PM you.

 

[IGGYWOOWOO]

Newone; How long have you had your supra? Once you go bpu the power becomes VERY ADDICTIVE! I too have a 94 tt, but it is an automatic. I purchased most of my BPU bolt-ons here on Supraforums. Most Supra owners are good reasonable educated people. I have had only one problem purchasing some wheels and tires from a certian person/company in Pennsylvania, but I will not get into that yet. Here is my list.

RMM downpipe and BCC-----------------$235 shipped
Blitz Nur-spec exhaust-------------------$585 shipped
RS Akimoto intake NEW------------------$170 shipped
Stock twins w/28k miles-----------------$375 shipped
Blitz SBC-id boost controller------------$415 shipped ebay

So basicly I have spent $1780 with all of these parts shipped to my door including a fresh set of turbos. My turbos began to leak oil through the seals in to the exhaust. Symptom: blue smoke during decelleration or braking.

Brandon

 

[Guest]

Brandon,

Thanks for the info and nice car.

I am very intrested in buying another set of used (good conditon/ low mileage) turbos in the future. Can you pretty much just unbolt the old turbos and replace them with the newer ones? I haven't really looked into buying used, but what you paid seems really cheap, is that considered a good deal?

Have had your car dyno'd?

Zach