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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally got the car started (GTE swap) and it seems fine...idles good. When I go to give it a lil gas, when it reaches around 2500 it bogs as if it wants to shut off. When I let off the gas, it goes back to idling fine. What could be causing this? There is a CEL, but I don't have the scanner to check it with at the moment.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Reading many different tutorials on the calibration of the TPS, a feeler gauge is mentioned. What is the purpose of this and is it needed in order to get this thing set up right?

If I make the adjustment and the car is still acting a fool, the TPS is pretty much done for right?

If I give the car a quick rev, it bogs down, if I rev it slowly, it will go to 2k before it bogs....
It idles pretty good, but a sound of a slight mis...
 

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Reading many different tutorials on the calibration of the TPS, a feeler gauge is mentioned. What is the purpose of this and is it needed in order to get this thing set up right?

If I make the adjustment and the car is still acting a fool, the TPS is pretty much done for right?

If I give the car a quick rev, it bogs down, if I rev it slowly, it will go to 2k before it bogs....
It idles pretty good, but a sound of a slight mis...
Feeler Gauge is used to setup your TPS sensor so the ecu sees exactly the movement of the throttle pedal. EX:
when TPS is set on rest/ THrottle Pedal is NOT pressed Down= the ecu sees it as idling

Now you move the internal TPS arm pivot .010"(not actual inch value but example) the ecu knows that it's no longer at idle and your cruising along

Each inch value that is set in your FSM has a specific function so the ecu gets its proper input to the ECU to see exactly how your driving.


I suggest getting it pretty damn close in spec or perfect so you wont have any troubles (ask me how i know lol)

And your TPS could be fine, it just needs to be re-calibrated and usually that fixes them but you could have a faulty TPS. There should be a resistance check to measure all Ohm reading to see if the TPS is faulty. I would do that first and than set up your TPS with the feeler gauge and DVOM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Feeler Gauge is used to setup your TPS sensor so the ecu sees exactly the movement of the throttle pedal. EX:
when TPS is set on rest/ THrottle Pedal is NOT pressed Down= the ecu sees it as idling

Now you move the internal TPS arm pivot .010"(not actual inch value but example) the ecu knows that it's no longer at idle and your cruising along

Each inch value that is set in your FSM has a specific function so the ecu gets its proper input to the ECU to see exactly how your driving.


I suggest getting it pretty damn close in spec or perfect so you wont have any troubles (ask me how i know lol)

And your TPS could be fine, it just needs to be re-calibrated and usually that fixes them but you could have a faulty TPS. There should be a resistance check to measure all Ohm reading to see if the TPS is faulty. I would do that first and than set up your TPS with the feeler gauge and DVOM.
Thanks for the reply! When the throttle is not pressed, should there be any play between the throttle contact and that throttle stop screw? I have very lil play there...say about 2 to 3 millimeters.
 

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There shouldn't be any play between the rest stop and the TB arm/bracket whatever you wanna call it. Your throttle arm should rest on that stop and your resistance value should be below the OHM value (w/e it states in the manual when the pedal is NOT pressed down).

Ex:
throttle arm on rest stop= < 3 ohms at <.003"
ECU sees the IDL switch is open= 5 Ohms- 7 Ohms at .005 to .008"

Also:
make sure w/e that value it states in the manual you are not on the edge where if the tps does get a lil out of spec it wouldnt fall into the next value and give you some kind of trouble. Remember over time with heat and other factors the tps does get a lil out of spec.

Example: A better idea of setting it up
TPS at rest stop- manual states 3ohms or less. Try puttin it at 1 Ohm
When idl switch opens- manual states .005 to .008. Try putting it at like .006 and still in that window ohm value like if it was 5 to 7 OHms try putting it at 6 Ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
There shouldn't be any play between the rest stop and the TB arm/bracket whatever you wanna call it. Your throttle arm should rest on that stop and your resistance value should be below the OHM value (w/e it states in the manual when the pedal is NOT pressed down).

Ex:
throttle arm on rest stop= < 3 ohms at <.003"
ECU sees the IDL switch is open= 5 Ohms- 7 Ohms at .005 to .008"

Also:
make sure w/e that value it states in the manual you are not on the edge where if the tps does get a lil out of spec it wouldnt fall into the next value and give you some kind of trouble. Remember over time with heat and other factors the tps does get a lil out of spec.

Example: A better idea of setting it up
TPS at rest stop- manual states 3ohms or less. Try puttin it at 1 Ohm
When idl switch opens- manual states .005 to .008. Try putting it at like .006 and still in that window ohm value like if it was 5 to 7 OHms try putting it at 6 Ohms.
Went and got the feeler gauge and readjusted the TPS until I got the deflection.

Car still doing the same things, so...

when I connect E2 and IDL on the TPS while the throttle is not pressed, I get reading of 0.00 and not the range of .005-.008 like you stated! I am doing something wrong or skipping a step?
 
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